any tips on removing tailshaft seal/bushing?
06-06-2009, 11:11 PM
#1
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any tips on removing tailshaft seal/bushing? I have a timken replacement, and had no problem getting the outer seal out, but have the inner seal/bushing all fubar, and at this point I'm starting to accept that i'll be dropping the trans, but is it possible to remove/replace with the trans installed? If the tailshaft does have to be removed, can it be removed with the trans installed? I see conflicting answers to the above questions.
I tried to pry the bushing out by crushing it (like putting a "crimp" in it to take pressure off of it), but if anything i probably lodged it in there worse.
Does anyone have any tips? Or can someone confirm that I'll be removing the trans or tailshaft. I can take the tailshaft to a trans shop if need be, but i'm trying to be as frugal as possible.
I guess I already know this answer, drop tranny, remove tailshaft and/or take tranny/tailshaft to trans shop.... I was just hoping someone can chime in with some great way to avoid (or at least confirm) some of this.
Thanks in advance,
Miki
I tried to pry the bushing out by crushing it (like putting a "crimp" in it to take pressure off of it), but if anything i probably lodged it in there worse.
Does anyone have any tips? Or can someone confirm that I'll be removing the trans or tailshaft. I can take the tailshaft to a trans shop if need be, but i'm trying to be as frugal as possible.
I guess I already know this answer, drop tranny, remove tailshaft and/or take tranny/tailshaft to trans shop.... I was just hoping someone can chime in with some great way to avoid (or at least confirm) some of this.
Thanks in advance,
Miki
06-08-2009, 11:16 AM
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well, after screwing with it as much as i could, the bushing is beyond fubar and not coming out, so i dropped the trans today, and looks like you still have to pull the tailshaft off and have it pressed out, no shortcuts from my perspective.
Now I need to figure out if i want to rebuild the whole trans since i'm in there, or just pay someone to do it..... and i didnt want to spend any cash...
here are pics for your viewing pleasures
and yes, i did try prying the bushing out
Now I need to figure out if i want to rebuild the whole trans since i'm in there, or just pay someone to do it..... and i didnt want to spend any cash...
here are pics for your viewing pleasures
and yes, i did try prying the bushing out
06-09-2009, 09:35 AM
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i was looking for the answer to this as well (hence how i stumbled on your thread)... the FIRST time i broke my DS tranny yoke, i had to remove the tailshaft. now on the SECOND time i broke it, i'm trying to see if i can get the bushing out without removing the tailshaft.
and FYI: I was able to remove my tailshaft with the trans still in the car. you have to remove the DS, shifter, y-pipe, and trans crossmember. I left the torque arm attached to the rear, just disconnected it at the trans. the top two tailshaft bolts were accessed via the shifter hole in the floorboard.
to get the bushing out, i just tapped it out with a punch from the inside. there is that large groove you can use to be able to line up a larger punch. it came out very easy this way.
the only way i could fathom to remove the bushing without pulling the tailshaft would be some sort of tool similar to a slide hammer, but smaller. i dunno if such a tool exists... so i'm trying to figure out if i can make one with random stuff i find in the garage.
EDIT: found one on a side that sells supplies for paintless dent removal. i'm not paying $125 for one though, and i doubt autozone has them for loan... but they do exist if you have buddies that work in paintless dent removal http://www.pdrtool.com/paintless_den...oval_tools.php
and FYI: I was able to remove my tailshaft with the trans still in the car. you have to remove the DS, shifter, y-pipe, and trans crossmember. I left the torque arm attached to the rear, just disconnected it at the trans. the top two tailshaft bolts were accessed via the shifter hole in the floorboard.
to get the bushing out, i just tapped it out with a punch from the inside. there is that large groove you can use to be able to line up a larger punch. it came out very easy this way.
the only way i could fathom to remove the bushing without pulling the tailshaft would be some sort of tool similar to a slide hammer, but smaller. i dunno if such a tool exists... so i'm trying to figure out if i can make one with random stuff i find in the garage.
EDIT: found one on a side that sells supplies for paintless dent removal. i'm not paying $125 for one though, and i doubt autozone has them for loan... but they do exist if you have buddies that work in paintless dent removal http://www.pdrtool.com/paintless_den...oval_tools.php
Last edited by slayer_taunu; 06-09-2009 at 09:49 AM.
06-09-2009, 06:09 PM
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thats an interesting tool, but i also will not pay that kind of cash for just getting the bushing out.
I appreciate the reply, but its too late, i pulled the trans monday morning, and pulled the tailshaft off, tapped the old bushing out, and the new one in, it was a pretty tight fit. so tight, that you can see the bushing is out of round (oblong at the two slits in the housing). I worked at it for like an hour with emery paper, and my ds STILL wont fit.
The bushing i'm using is a timken, and i put green loctite on it, but i'm sure it wasn't necessary with how tight it is. I should have had it machined, but it may be too late now - any opinions? I'm gonna see if i can take it into work and have someone try to machine it, but peeps are funny about that (we are not a machine shop, but have a small shop to support our manufacturing process).
hopefully this all works out....
If I take this to a machine shop, and use the secondary seal bore as center, to have the bushing machined, do you guys see a problem with that? What clearance should I look for?
here is a pic after a bunch of emery paper work, with still not enough clearance:
I appreciate the reply, but its too late, i pulled the trans monday morning, and pulled the tailshaft off, tapped the old bushing out, and the new one in, it was a pretty tight fit. so tight, that you can see the bushing is out of round (oblong at the two slits in the housing). I worked at it for like an hour with emery paper, and my ds STILL wont fit.
The bushing i'm using is a timken, and i put green loctite on it, but i'm sure it wasn't necessary with how tight it is. I should have had it machined, but it may be too late now - any opinions? I'm gonna see if i can take it into work and have someone try to machine it, but peeps are funny about that (we are not a machine shop, but have a small shop to support our manufacturing process).
hopefully this all works out....
If I take this to a machine shop, and use the secondary seal bore as center, to have the bushing machined, do you guys see a problem with that? What clearance should I look for?
here is a pic after a bunch of emery paper work, with still not enough clearance:
Last edited by bigshoe; 06-09-2009 at 06:30 PM.
06-10-2009, 05:30 PM
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just an update, i had a trans shop redo the seal, only cost 45 bucks with the new seal, wish i did that in the first place. They questioned if i had the wrong seal, and I might have, who knows, the one I got today looked just like the stock one (without the bronze sintered id). All that matters is it fits good.
slayer, thanks for your help
slayer, thanks for your help
