TPI to Carb and TH400
#1
TPI to Carb and TH400
I am looking for some insight on converting my 1990 camaro to Carb and TH400. The car currently has a miniram and runs good...but it is very inconsistent for bracket racing. I know guys have made these swaps (especially ZONES!). My questions:
1) VATS - I want to remove the ECM and the entire harness. How do I get around VATS? I think it is currently disabled in the computer.
2) Removing ECM and Harness - Will this affect the wiring of the alternator, starter or distributor? Is it easier to leave the harness in-place?
3) Will my existing x-member work with the TH400? I have a tunnel mount TA.
4) With a Victor Jr. intake and a 1" spacer, how big of a cowl hood will I need? I'd like to stay as small as possible.
5) Regulator - will my current return lines (stock) be big enough?
Any help would really be appreciated. Once I get done with this (over the winter), I'll have a miniram w/ 30lb SVO injectors, AFPR, 58mm BBK TB, custom programmed computer and harness for sale!!
1) VATS - I want to remove the ECM and the entire harness. How do I get around VATS? I think it is currently disabled in the computer.
2) Removing ECM and Harness - Will this affect the wiring of the alternator, starter or distributor? Is it easier to leave the harness in-place?
3) Will my existing x-member work with the TH400? I have a tunnel mount TA.
4) With a Victor Jr. intake and a 1" spacer, how big of a cowl hood will I need? I'd like to stay as small as possible.
5) Regulator - will my current return lines (stock) be big enough?
Any help would really be appreciated. Once I get done with this (over the winter), I'll have a miniram w/ 30lb SVO injectors, AFPR, 58mm BBK TB, custom programmed computer and harness for sale!!
#2
In-Zane Moderator
iTrader: (25)
Damn, next time i convert to carb on a3rd gen i will take pics.
OK, 1) I have removed my ECM and ran a starter button on my black car. It was perfect for a night and weekend car. Some dont like a button, i dont care. For my t top car i jusr did, i left in the ECM.
2) When i remoed my ECM i removed all the wiring to it, it is a PITA to take all that time but it is cleaner looking. Tanek a while but you can do it if you want to, jutst dont remove any wires you dont know what they do. You can trace most.
3) No, you will have to a) Modify your existing cross member b) Fabricate your own or c) Buy one from Spohn/BMR or someone that makes them.
(Your stock drve shaft is not going to work with a TH400)
4)A victor junior is not a tall intake, it might clear with the spacer and a drop base air cleaner under the stock hood.(i might be wrong bit it is as tall as a performer intake)
5) Your existing fuel lines will work, i use mine without issues.
Good luck with it, LMK if you have any other questions, i am sure you will.
OK, 1) I have removed my ECM and ran a starter button on my black car. It was perfect for a night and weekend car. Some dont like a button, i dont care. For my t top car i jusr did, i left in the ECM.
2) When i remoed my ECM i removed all the wiring to it, it is a PITA to take all that time but it is cleaner looking. Tanek a while but you can do it if you want to, jutst dont remove any wires you dont know what they do. You can trace most.
3) No, you will have to a) Modify your existing cross member b) Fabricate your own or c) Buy one from Spohn/BMR or someone that makes them.
(Your stock drve shaft is not going to work with a TH400)
4)A victor junior is not a tall intake, it might clear with the spacer and a drop base air cleaner under the stock hood.(i might be wrong bit it is as tall as a performer intake)
5) Your existing fuel lines will work, i use mine without issues.
Good luck with it, LMK if you have any other questions, i am sure you will.
#3
a victor jr is tall dont use any spacer I run victor jr without spacer and the carb is as height as the master cylinder I will take picture for it if you want,about the wiring just leave the ones you gonna use like water tempreture,oil pressure switch,,etc and about the starter wiring I think they are 3 red ones and 1 purple they are heavy wires dont take them off so you can use the factory ignition switch
#4
Thanks for the info so far guys. A few pictures of either engine bay would be great. Is there a book out there that would show the schematices for the wiring at the firewall through the engine bay?
Concerning the driveshaft...will I need to shorten or lengthen? I have a Denny's NTO ready with 1350 U Joints. I hate to scrap it. Making it shorter is easier than longer.
F-Body, Sorry to see you are still having problems with your engine. I'll have to give some thought to this ignition gremlin of yours!
Concerning the driveshaft...will I need to shorten or lengthen? I have a Denny's NTO ready with 1350 U Joints. I hate to scrap it. Making it shorter is easier than longer.
F-Body, Sorry to see you are still having problems with your engine. I'll have to give some thought to this ignition gremlin of yours!
#6
The air gap looks like it fits good...do you use a drop base air cleaner? What are you using for the upper radiator hose (stock)? Is see a rubber line running from the carb...where did you mount your regulator? Thanks again for the photo and the help!
#7
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#10
In-Zane Moderator
iTrader: (25)
I am using the stock TBI cable with a different cable bracket as you can see.
#13
I notice that you guys are both using TBI throttle cables. Do you know if it is possible to use the TPI cable? I am trying to assemble all of the parts needed ahead of time. I don't want to tie up a stall at my Brother's Garage (he has a body shop) for too long. I will probably do the swap and leave the harness in there and work on removing that once the car is moving again.
Can you think of anything else obvious that I am missing?
Can you think of anything else obvious that I am missing?
#14
can you show us which cable you got because there are two cables for TPI one with hole and another one that looks like brake cable for bicycle's a similar one to LS1's if you got the one with the hole then you dont need to change it
#18
Wanted to update this topic with some progress...
Decided on the RPM air gap with a 1" spacer. I am keeping the 700R4. I am also keeping the computer and computer controlled distributor. Working on a chip right now to make that possible. I need to fab a bracket for attaching the TPS sensor to the carb. I think it will be worthwhile to have a computer controlled timing curve...especially if I spray it later! I am doing the swap in the next few weeks. I'll let you know how it goes.
Decided on the RPM air gap with a 1" spacer. I am keeping the 700R4. I am also keeping the computer and computer controlled distributor. Working on a chip right now to make that possible. I need to fab a bracket for attaching the TPS sensor to the carb. I think it will be worthwhile to have a computer controlled timing curve...especially if I spray it later! I am doing the swap in the next few weeks. I'll let you know how it goes.
#19
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
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i droped a carbed 327 in my old 87' iroc tune port, needed regulator with return, pulled the ecm and all engine harness wires & used the hanes book for the wire diagram, pulled & used ony the wires i needed. no check engine lite with no computer...ha. i went white trashy with no hood, tall dart intake 1/2" spacer, nitrous plate & race demon 750 would have fit under a 4 inch cowl im pretty shure