Couple clutch questions.
09-16-2009, 01:53 PM
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Couple clutch questions. So right now I have a Spec 3 bolted on a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. Motor is cam only if it matters (TR230).
Clutch has been absolutely perfect, getting about 16k miles on it now. All of the sudden the other day, pedal pressure got lighter, and the clutch is now engaging way up on the pedal. Used to be a little more than half way, now its almost at the top of the pedal, not all the way but almost. Wasnt gradual at all, just all the sudden. Happened when I had a girl in the car with me so I was to preoccupied to remember **** about how I was driving when it happened
Its not slipping at all, just almost feels like its not grabbing as hard as it used to. Could just be the lighter pedal effort is throwing me off. Fluid in the resivoiur is full and clean, no visible leaks. Master and slave were put in the same time as the clutch. So could this be my car telling me to start saving, or something else?
Not dissapointed by the Spec at all, just wondering what could be up with it. If anything I probably slipped it one too many times, so if its a part faliure it would be my fault.
Couple other questions- How much do Spec's and Monster's aluminum/lightweight flywheels weigh, compared to a Fidanza?
What would longevity be from an aftermarket master like a Tick? Is there such thing as an aftermarket slave, and when should I worry about it?
If the clutch is fried, and I decide on another Spec, could I get away with reusing the pressure plate with 16k on it, or should I not cheap out? If so, is there a difference in pressure plates between the 3 and 3+?
Clutch has been absolutely perfect, getting about 16k miles on it now. All of the sudden the other day, pedal pressure got lighter, and the clutch is now engaging way up on the pedal. Used to be a little more than half way, now its almost at the top of the pedal, not all the way but almost. Wasnt gradual at all, just all the sudden. Happened when I had a girl in the car with me so I was to preoccupied to remember **** about how I was driving when it happened
Its not slipping at all, just almost feels like its not grabbing as hard as it used to. Could just be the lighter pedal effort is throwing me off. Fluid in the resivoiur is full and clean, no visible leaks. Master and slave were put in the same time as the clutch. So could this be my car telling me to start saving, or something else?
Not dissapointed by the Spec at all, just wondering what could be up with it. If anything I probably slipped it one too many times, so if its a part faliure it would be my fault.
Couple other questions- How much do Spec's and Monster's aluminum/lightweight flywheels weigh, compared to a Fidanza?
What would longevity be from an aftermarket master like a Tick? Is there such thing as an aftermarket slave, and when should I worry about it?
If the clutch is fried, and I decide on another Spec, could I get away with reusing the pressure plate with 16k on it, or should I not cheap out? If so, is there a difference in pressure plates between the 3 and 3+?
09-16-2009, 04:58 PM
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So right now I have a Spec 3 bolted on a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. Motor is cam only if it matters (TR230).
Clutch has been absolutely perfect, getting about 16k miles on it now. All of the sudden the other day, pedal pressure got lighter, and the clutch is now engaging way up on the pedal. Used to be a little more than half way, now its almost at the top of the pedal, not all the way but almost. Wasnt gradual at all, just all the sudden. Happened when I had a girl in the car with me so I was to preoccupied to remember **** about how I was driving when it happened
Its not slipping at all, just almost feels like its not grabbing as hard as it used to. Could just be the lighter pedal effort is throwing me off. Fluid in the resivoiur is full and clean, no visible leaks. Master and slave were put in the same time as the clutch. So could this be my car telling me to start saving, or something else?
Not dissapointed by the Spec at all, just wondering what could be up with it. If anything I probably slipped it one too many times, so if its a part faliure it would be my fault.
Couple other questions- How much do Spec's and Monster's aluminum/lightweight flywheels weigh, compared to a Fidanza?
What would longevity be from an aftermarket master like a Tick? Is there such thing as an aftermarket slave, and when should I worry about it?
If the clutch is fried, and I decide on another Spec, could I get away with reusing the pressure plate with 16k on it, or should I not cheap out? If so, is there a difference in pressure plates between the 3 and 3+?
Clutch has been absolutely perfect, getting about 16k miles on it now. All of the sudden the other day, pedal pressure got lighter, and the clutch is now engaging way up on the pedal. Used to be a little more than half way, now its almost at the top of the pedal, not all the way but almost. Wasnt gradual at all, just all the sudden. Happened when I had a girl in the car with me so I was to preoccupied to remember **** about how I was driving when it happened
Its not slipping at all, just almost feels like its not grabbing as hard as it used to. Could just be the lighter pedal effort is throwing me off. Fluid in the resivoiur is full and clean, no visible leaks. Master and slave were put in the same time as the clutch. So could this be my car telling me to start saving, or something else?
Not dissapointed by the Spec at all, just wondering what could be up with it. If anything I probably slipped it one too many times, so if its a part faliure it would be my fault.
Couple other questions- How much do Spec's and Monster's aluminum/lightweight flywheels weigh, compared to a Fidanza?
What would longevity be from an aftermarket master like a Tick? Is there such thing as an aftermarket slave, and when should I worry about it?
If the clutch is fried, and I decide on another Spec, could I get away with reusing the pressure plate with 16k on it, or should I not cheap out? If so, is there a difference in pressure plates between the 3 and 3+?
Our Monster lightweight billet steel Flywheel weighs 15 lbs.
Back to your original question/concern...does not sound like a clutch problem, and probaly more of a hydraulic issue. Even though the stock hydro's are junk, I will say that at 16k Miles for even them to go out, would be rare. BUT, if you have been beating on it, then not so surprised.
What DOES confuse me is this comment....."Its not slipping at all, just almost feels like its not grabbing as hard as it used to."
What do you mean "not grabbing as hard"? If it is not slipping, then????
09-16-2009, 10:52 PM
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Our Monster lightweight billet steel Flywheel weighs 15 lbs.
Back to your original question/concern...does not sound like a clutch problem, and probaly more of a hydraulic issue. Even though the stock hydro's are junk, I will say that at 16k Miles for even them to go out, would be rare. BUT, if you have been beating on it, then not so surprised.
What DOES confuse me is this comment....."Its not slipping at all, just almost feels like its not grabbing as hard as it used to."
What do you mean "not grabbing as hard"? If it is not slipping, then????
Back to your original question/concern...does not sound like a clutch problem, and probaly more of a hydraulic issue. Even though the stock hydro's are junk, I will say that at 16k Miles for even them to go out, would be rare. BUT, if you have been beating on it, then not so surprised.
What DOES confuse me is this comment....."Its not slipping at all, just almost feels like its not grabbing as hard as it used to."
What do you mean "not grabbing as hard"? If it is not slipping, then????
As far as the grabbing hard thing, thats why I was thinking it was almost in my head, but I'll try and explain better. Before I was having this issue, it was really precise. Always engaged at the exact same point on the pedal, and there wasnt very much room for engagement, sorta on/off like a switch. Going through the gears there wasnt much to worry about, just let off the pedal and go.
Now it seems like its higher up on the pedal, and its not so precise where its going to engage, seems like there is a little more room for engagement. I beat on it a little to check for it slipping, and driving it hard it does exactly as it should. But going slower it just feels alot more sloppy, like I'm having to pay a bunch more attention exactly how/where its going to engage every time.
I was almost thinking it could be the slave starting to go out? Or maybe something in the pressure plate screwed up? Last dyno I only put out like ~390rwhp, so I could see something breaking, it not clamping like it used to, and still not slipping cause I'm still at a pretty low power level.
09-17-2009, 09:12 AM
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Yeah, beating on it has been a common occurance...
As far as the grabbing hard thing, thats why I was thinking it was almost in my head, but I'll try and explain better. Before I was having this issue, it was really precise. Always engaged at the exact same point on the pedal, and there wasnt very much room for engagement, sorta on/off like a switch. Going through the gears there wasnt much to worry about, just let off the pedal and go.
Now it seems like its higher up on the pedal, and its not so precise where its going to engage, seems like there is a little more room for engagement. I beat on it a little to check for it slipping, and driving it hard it does exactly as it should. But going slower it just feels alot more sloppy, like I'm having to pay a bunch more attention exactly how/where its going to engage every time.
I was almost thinking it could be the slave starting to go out? Or maybe something in the pressure plate screwed up? Last dyno I only put out like ~390rwhp, so I could see something breaking, it not clamping like it used to, and still not slipping cause I'm still at a pretty low power level.
As far as the grabbing hard thing, thats why I was thinking it was almost in my head, but I'll try and explain better. Before I was having this issue, it was really precise. Always engaged at the exact same point on the pedal, and there wasnt very much room for engagement, sorta on/off like a switch. Going through the gears there wasnt much to worry about, just let off the pedal and go.
Now it seems like its higher up on the pedal, and its not so precise where its going to engage, seems like there is a little more room for engagement. I beat on it a little to check for it slipping, and driving it hard it does exactly as it should. But going slower it just feels alot more sloppy, like I'm having to pay a bunch more attention exactly how/where its going to engage every time.
I was almost thinking it could be the slave starting to go out? Or maybe something in the pressure plate screwed up? Last dyno I only put out like ~390rwhp, so I could see something breaking, it not clamping like it used to, and still not slipping cause I'm still at a pretty low power level.
Well, that is a MUCH better explanation....and it sounds like...clutch break in/normal wear you are experiencing, or a hydraulic issue. With 16K hard miles, might be time for a fluid flush and rebleed. Not saying your slave and MC are not on the way out (they might be) but, I would try a flush and rebleed of your system since that is easiest and cheapest to do, and is probaly overdue anyways with alot of hard beatings you are giving it.
The fluid gets hot, and breaks down. Also, brake fluid itself, traps moistures, and can go bad, JUST by sitting on a shelf. Yeah, I know. So, if fluid has broke down, can give more of a "soft" feel in teh pedal type of thing as well...flush/rebleed it.
09-17-2009, 09:19 AM
#5
Beer, (I like the screen name by the way) Our SC75A weighs 13-lbs and our Steel flywheel weighs 24-lbs. Either would be great dependent on your specific needs. The steel unit will feel more like the stock unit with higher inertia and thus be a bit better for those with full weight cars and sticky tires that tend to bog out of the hole. Aluminum on the otherhand will have less inertia and allow for very quick RPM increases and decreases. It would be great for those that are currently struggling with excessive wheel spin out of the hole (relative to the power and tire selection) or those that are interested in mid-to-high RPM usage (great for road-race).
As for the pedal change the first thing I would do is check the fluid in the reservoir. If it is dark or discolored then flush the fluid and refill with a higher boiling point fluid. You should also check the routing of the hydraulic line as it passes the header. It should be routed behind the heat-shield and I recommend wrapping the lines with a good heat wrap to further reduce the potential for boiling it again in the future.
It's unlikely that this is a plate failure issue as the clutch is still functioning and you are able to shift gears. Of course the only way to truly assess theclutch parts is to pull them out and take a look. Check out the hydraulics and let me know what you find. Thanks,
As for the pedal change the first thing I would do is check the fluid in the reservoir. If it is dark or discolored then flush the fluid and refill with a higher boiling point fluid. You should also check the routing of the hydraulic line as it passes the header. It should be routed behind the heat-shield and I recommend wrapping the lines with a good heat wrap to further reduce the potential for boiling it again in the future.
It's unlikely that this is a plate failure issue as the clutch is still functioning and you are able to shift gears. Of course the only way to truly assess theclutch parts is to pull them out and take a look. Check out the hydraulics and let me know what you find. Thanks,
