ran into an issue with the auto to manual swap, need input
#1
ran into an issue with the auto to manual swap, need input
So I got the hole in the firewall cut for the master cylinder and got the rod all straight and everything but when I hooked it up to the peg on the clutch pedal, it wouldn't budge. In fact, it started bulging out the firewall there was so much resistance. I'm not sure if that means the master cyl. Is bad or what?
If you were holding the master in your hand, not hooked up to the trans and no hydrolic fluid in it, would you be able to push in the rod by hand? Because I couldn't, not at all. Not sure if this means the cyl. is locked up or what... Any ideas?
Also, when mounting the pedals and the rod on the clutch peg, I did have to push in the clutch pedal just a small bit to get the peg in the hole on the rod, I know you shouldn't really have to do this, and many have made a home-made adjustable master by cutting the rod in half and welding to nuts together and putting them between the two halves of the rod, or you buy an aftermarket one... But my question is that if I just left the rod off the peg and let the pedal hang freely, the pad on the pedal was wayyyy closer to the driver seat than the brake pedal. I don't remember my 5spd IROC being like that. I thought the two pedals should be flush or close to it?
If you were holding the master in your hand, not hooked up to the trans and no hydrolic fluid in it, would you be able to push in the rod by hand? Because I couldn't, not at all. Not sure if this means the cyl. is locked up or what... Any ideas?
Also, when mounting the pedals and the rod on the clutch peg, I did have to push in the clutch pedal just a small bit to get the peg in the hole on the rod, I know you shouldn't really have to do this, and many have made a home-made adjustable master by cutting the rod in half and welding to nuts together and putting them between the two halves of the rod, or you buy an aftermarket one... But my question is that if I just left the rod off the peg and let the pedal hang freely, the pad on the pedal was wayyyy closer to the driver seat than the brake pedal. I don't remember my 5spd IROC being like that. I thought the two pedals should be flush or close to it?
#2
if your master is not connected to anything, where do you think the fluid its supposed to push is supposed to go. The answer is it won't budge.
As for pedal location, I recall my stock setup to have the pedal higher than the brake pedal. With the tick, I have it closer to the firewall.
As for pedal location, I recall my stock setup to have the pedal higher than the brake pedal. With the tick, I have it closer to the firewall.
#3
So you're saying that without the hydrolics hooked up and you push in the rod that fluid won't spew out of the line that goes to the trans? I didn't realize the fluid is trapped in the master without it being hooked up? Here I was thinking the master was stuck or something lol