Solid subframe bushings/Rear diff.
#1
Solid subframe bushings/Rear diff.
I know this is not a GM related question,but I wanted to get a few opinions. This forum has a lot of knowledgable people,probably more so than a lot of the import car forums.
Anyway,I own a 1992 Eagle Talon AWD.I made my own motor mounts by welding a cap on each end. This worked out great. However I'm starting to approach 1,000whp. Everything else in the drivetrain is rated at well over 1,000whp. The only questionable thing left is the crappy rubber subframe mounts for the rear diff. There are a few guys that manufacture solid aluminum bushings/inserts but they go for over $300.If I absolutely have to I'll spend the cash,but I'm thinking of just doing what I did with the motor mounts and welding a cap on each side making it solid.
From what I've read on www.magnusmotorsports.com website the main reason for breaking rear diffs and axles is due to worn rear subframe bushings which allow movement. Ultimately this is what causes so many high powered DSM's to break rear diffs. This is pretty much what it will looks like.
Anyway,I own a 1992 Eagle Talon AWD.I made my own motor mounts by welding a cap on each end. This worked out great. However I'm starting to approach 1,000whp. Everything else in the drivetrain is rated at well over 1,000whp. The only questionable thing left is the crappy rubber subframe mounts for the rear diff. There are a few guys that manufacture solid aluminum bushings/inserts but they go for over $300.If I absolutely have to I'll spend the cash,but I'm thinking of just doing what I did with the motor mounts and welding a cap on each side making it solid.
From what I've read on www.magnusmotorsports.com website the main reason for breaking rear diffs and axles is due to worn rear subframe bushings which allow movement. Ultimately this is what causes so many high powered DSM's to break rear diffs. This is pretty much what it will looks like.
#2
They make this setup for 2G DSM's. Honestly I've never had rear diff issues,but I'd rather address it now before it does become an issue.
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/chassis/index.htm
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/chassis/index.htm
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Kinda seems like if you have the money to build a car approaching 1000hp (regardless of make), $300 for some solid mounts that you would likely never have to replace would just be a drop in the bucket.
Having said that, I don't think welding a cap onto the end of the mount would be the most solid thing in the world. It basically just has the two contact points at either end where the bolt goes through the mount, and it isn't supported in the middle...
Having said that, I don't think welding a cap onto the end of the mount would be the most solid thing in the world. It basically just has the two contact points at either end where the bolt goes through the mount, and it isn't supported in the middle...
#4
Kinda seems like if you have the money to build a car approaching 1000hp (regardless of make), $300 for some solid mounts that you would likely never have to replace would just be a drop in the bucket.
Having said that, I don't think welding a cap onto the end of the mount would be the most solid thing in the world. It basically just has the two contact points at either end where the bolt goes through the mount, and it isn't supported in the middle...
Having said that, I don't think welding a cap onto the end of the mount would be the most solid thing in the world. It basically just has the two contact points at either end where the bolt goes through the mount, and it isn't supported in the middle...
I know a handfull of guys making over 1,000whp running the same type mounts.Some not even as robust looking as mine.Thats not what I'm worried about.I'm more worried that this is going to be TOO stiff.I mean solid is solid.I don't see what the differance would be but you know how the internet is. Everyone has to chime in with there 2 cents even if they don't know what there talking about.
The company that made solid mounts is no longer producing them.
Yeah,I've got over $50,000 invested in the car. I had to break my back and scape up every dime I have to finish this car. So now it's time to start pinching the pennies and try to finish the thing without totaly making myself go broke. $300 was a drop in the bucket when I started this project 3 yrs. ago. Not anymore.
Regaurdless of make???? I'll tell you one thing that I know for a fact because I've been there and done that. Building an 8 sec F-body and building an AWD unibody 4 cylinder are 2 completely different things. Cost wise and in terms of durability.I could have built 2 Camaros for what I have in this car.
#5
Oh,and those mounts have been in the car for a long time. Made consistant 10.60 passes and numerous 1.4 60ft's with no issues what so ever. Like I said,I've never had drivetrain issues like some of the other guys I see out there. This is more like preventative maint.