I have a squeak from my Moser 9". Bearing?
11-23-2009, 08:54 AM
#1
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I have a squeak from my Moser 9". Bearing? Hi all,
I've had a prob with a speed dependent squeak coming from the right rear tire on my Camaro. It has a Moser 9" rear with about 3K miles. To be honest, I still have to get her in the air and pull the wheel to check everything, so it could be anything from brakes to bearings..... but I'm still curious if people have had probs with the axle bearings on the 9" making noise.
To complicate the issue, the squeak will go away after driving a bit (say 2-5 miles), then return once the car sits for a while (30 minutes or more). I haven't ruled out the suspension either (have poly bushings/heim joints), but I'd be suprised that those would swueak based on speed...... thus my bearing Q.
Any $0.02 appreciated.
I've had a prob with a speed dependent squeak coming from the right rear tire on my Camaro. It has a Moser 9" rear with about 3K miles. To be honest, I still have to get her in the air and pull the wheel to check everything, so it could be anything from brakes to bearings..... but I'm still curious if people have had probs with the axle bearings on the 9" making noise.
To complicate the issue, the squeak will go away after driving a bit (say 2-5 miles), then return once the car sits for a while (30 minutes or more). I haven't ruled out the suspension either (have poly bushings/heim joints), but I'd be suprised that those would swueak based on speed...... thus my bearing Q.
Any $0.02 appreciated.
11-24-2009, 09:17 PM
#2
Loose lug nuts will cause a squeak. E brake too tight on one side might cause a squeak too.
The u-joints on an aluminum driveshaft will squeak too, if the pinion angle isn't set correctly especially if the angle is negative at the transmission and positive at the rearend. On this type of lift, you can adjust the adjustable torque arm to set the pinion angle as the driveshaft is turning and hear the u-joints increase and/or decrease in sound as the pinion angle is changed.
To diagnose the source of the squeak find a shop with a drive-on lift that has sliding jacks that can be placed under the rear axle to load the suspension and raise the wheels.
On this type of lift it is actually safe to start the engine and drive the rear-end to determine the source of the noise.
You can put the car on jack stands too under the axle but not safe to the start the car. But you can turn the driveshaft by hand to try to determine the source of the squeak.
Back in the day - 1998's with the addition of the aluminum driveshaft with 3.23 and 3.42 ratio were notorious for driveshaft squeak. 2.73 rearends had the steel driveshaft then with no driveshaft squeak.
The u-joints on an aluminum driveshaft will squeak too, if the pinion angle isn't set correctly especially if the angle is negative at the transmission and positive at the rearend. On this type of lift, you can adjust the adjustable torque arm to set the pinion angle as the driveshaft is turning and hear the u-joints increase and/or decrease in sound as the pinion angle is changed.
To diagnose the source of the squeak find a shop with a drive-on lift that has sliding jacks that can be placed under the rear axle to load the suspension and raise the wheels.
On this type of lift it is actually safe to start the engine and drive the rear-end to determine the source of the noise.
You can put the car on jack stands too under the axle but not safe to the start the car. But you can turn the driveshaft by hand to try to determine the source of the squeak.
Back in the day - 1998's with the addition of the aluminum driveshaft with 3.23 and 3.42 ratio were notorious for driveshaft squeak. 2.73 rearends had the steel driveshaft then with no driveshaft squeak.
11-25-2009, 11:49 AM
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Loose lug nuts will cause a squeak. E brake too tight on one side might cause a squeak too.
The u-joints on an aluminum driveshaft will squeak too, if the pinion angle isn't set correctly especially if the angle is negative at the transmission and positive at the rearend. On this type of lift, you can adjust the adjustable torque arm to set the pinion angle as the driveshaft is turning and hear the u-joints increase and/or decrease in sound as the pinion angle is changed.
To diagnose the source of the squeak find a shop with a drive-on lift that has sliding jacks that can be placed under the rear axle to load the suspension and raise the wheels.
On this type of lift it is actually safe to start the engine and drive the rear-end to determine the source of the noise.
You can put the car on jack stands too under the axle but not safe to the start the car. But you can turn the driveshaft by hand to try to determine the source of the squeak.
Back in the day - 1998's with the addition of the aluminum driveshaft with 3.23 and 3.42 ratio were notorious for driveshaft squeak. 2.73 rearends had the steel driveshaft then with no driveshaft squeak.
The u-joints on an aluminum driveshaft will squeak too, if the pinion angle isn't set correctly especially if the angle is negative at the transmission and positive at the rearend. On this type of lift, you can adjust the adjustable torque arm to set the pinion angle as the driveshaft is turning and hear the u-joints increase and/or decrease in sound as the pinion angle is changed.
To diagnose the source of the squeak find a shop with a drive-on lift that has sliding jacks that can be placed under the rear axle to load the suspension and raise the wheels.
On this type of lift it is actually safe to start the engine and drive the rear-end to determine the source of the noise.
You can put the car on jack stands too under the axle but not safe to the start the car. But you can turn the driveshaft by hand to try to determine the source of the squeak.
Back in the day - 1998's with the addition of the aluminum driveshaft with 3.23 and 3.42 ratio were notorious for driveshaft squeak. 2.73 rearends had the steel driveshaft then with no driveshaft squeak.
11-25-2009, 01:44 PM
#4
But it still makes noise. The noise is from the driveshaft joints -both joints are new - I replaced the original ones that came with the PST.
My PST is not balanced - PST said some of their driveshafts don't need balancing and why there are no weights on the ds.
When I asked PST about the squeaking - he said aluminum driveshafts squeak.
His offer to me was for me to send them my driveshaft and they would confirm that balancing was still correct and test it for noise.
Good luck - my problems all started when I replaced the K-member with a UMI K-member and replaced the stock transmission (A4) with a Yank crossmember.
Apparently both of these two pieces throws the transmission alignment off just enough to change the front DS angle to either a plus or minus and cause vibrations in the driveshaft. On my car just one or two degrees less than -2 or more than -2 degrees causes noise.
12-01-2009, 06:11 PM
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I have the same problem....squeaks and kinda squeals real lightly....Sounds like brakes but its not when brakes are being pressed....I only hear it when going VERY slow, but hear it more when im pulling out of a parking spot sideways...I hear mine coming from the left side of my car i think
I also have a 9in with a 3.5in AL PST driveshaft
What u guys tinka bout mine?
I also have a 9in with a 3.5in AL PST driveshaft
What u guys tinka bout mine?
12-01-2009, 06:24 PM
#6
I have the same problem....squeaks and kinda squeals real lightly....Sounds like brakes but its not when brakes are being pressed....I only hear it when going VERY slow, but hear it more when im pulling out of a parking spot sideways...I hear mine coming from the left side of my car i think
I also have a 9in with a 3.5in AL PST driveshaft
What u guys tinka bout mine?
I also have a 9in with a 3.5in AL PST driveshaft
What u guys tinka bout mine?
Put the car in neuetral and turn the drive-shaft. If the front or rear u-joints squeak - that's your answer.
Next change the pinion angle to eliminate the squeak. You might have to raise or lower the transmission while at the same time change the pinion angle at the rear to eliminate the noise.
If you want to see and hear what the driveshaft sounds like when the pinion angle is too much adjust the pinion angle negative or positive.
BTW: Do you have the stock transmission mount or an aftermarket tunnel mount?
12-01-2009, 06:29 PM
#7
I had a squeek for a while, couldn't find it, when my tranny need to come out I found the torque arm bushing to be ripped and the tq arm was rubbing on the metal clame... I ended up with the bmr tq arm relocation crossmember and it went away.
But minw really wasn't speed related, everytime my tranny would shift it would sound like a faint horn honk. LOL . and when I push up and down on the rear end it would be consistent.
I dought this is your problem, but I would check the brakes and e-brake first.
But minw really wasn't speed related, everytime my tranny would shift it would sound like a faint horn honk. LOL . and when I push up and down on the rear end it would be consistent.
I dought this is your problem, but I would check the brakes and e-brake first.
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12-01-2009, 09:51 PM
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well it might be pinion angle....My front end of the car is lowered and the back end is not, and Im running a stock torque arm right now....so that might be it
12-11-2009, 12:46 PM
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Update on my "squeak". It's NOT the driveshaft. The noise is coming from the driver-side rear tire. I removed the wheel, reseated the brake rotor, and torqued the tire back down. Squeak went away for all of 5 minutes.
Still not 100% sure the prob, but looking at the e-brake being too tight on the driver side now. It's not a bearing because it doesn't squeak in reverse....and is intermittent.
Will post again when I eventually get it sorted out. Thanks for the advice so far
Still not 100% sure the prob, but looking at the e-brake being too tight on the driver side now. It's not a bearing because it doesn't squeak in reverse....and is intermittent.
Will post again when I eventually get it sorted out. Thanks for the advice so far
12-11-2009, 01:17 PM
#10
Update on my "squeak". It's NOT the driveshaft. The noise is coming from the driver-side rear tire. I removed the wheel, reseated the brake rotor, and torqued the tire back down. Squeak went away for all of 5 minutes.
Still not 100% sure the prob, but looking at the e-brake being too tight on the driver side now. It's not a bearing because it doesn't squeak in reverse....and is intermittent.
Will post again when I eventually get it sorted out. Thanks for the advice so far
Still not 100% sure the prob, but looking at the e-brake being too tight on the driver side now. It's not a bearing because it doesn't squeak in reverse....and is intermittent.
Will post again when I eventually get it sorted out. Thanks for the advice so far
Typically the lug bolt length is longer than stock (2.25" or longer) on aftermarket rearends compared to the stock rear end lugs bolts (1.5").
Are your lug nuts open face or closed end? If closed end are they long enough to completely tighten the wheel? Not bottoming out I hope?
The other thing to check are the metal spring tension pieces that hold the brake pads in place. They get hot and loose their tension.
Or the caliper isn't sliding back and forth on the caliper bolts. The caliper bolts get really rusty if they aren't periodically cleaned and greased.
If the rotor straight or possibly warped?
