Ok to not have "low" rpm in use on window switch?
#1
Ok to not have "low" rpm in use on window switch?
I have a window switch on my SS because I don't wanna spray through the shifts, but I wanna get the car to leave harder. Currently the window switch low setting is around 3000, would it be ok to set it really low (say 1500 or so) since the window switch also has a WOT switch? The car has a 3600 stall, so I'm wondering how much difference this would even make?
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The are many fast cars that do not use a window switch. The issue is if you get a stumble or hiccup down low without one it usually causes those nice big flaming backfires. ( to my knowledge )
I prefer to use one and the lowest I have went is 2500 in an auto.
I personally would never run a manual trans car without one.
I prefer to use one and the lowest I have went is 2500 in an auto.
I personally would never run a manual trans car without one.
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sorry, but that is not true
The more power a car makes the higher the stall will flash, so if sprayed earlier the converter would flasher higher and if traction is there the car would leave harder.
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basically what i was trying to say is that since he already has a pretty big stall it would be a huge gain to spray a whole lot lower, and it also poses more of a risk.
but yes, you are right, i just didnt elaborate enough on what i was thinking
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i know it would flash higher, but just for the sake of clarifying for him what he is wanting to know, i said it wouldnt make a difference... i guess i should have said it wouldnt make a huge difference tho to be more clear.
basically what i was trying to say is that since he already has a pretty big stall it would be a huge gain to spray a whole lot lower, and it also poses more of a risk.
but yes, you are right, i just didnt elaborate enough on what i was thinking
basically what i was trying to say is that since he already has a pretty big stall it would be a huge gain to spray a whole lot lower, and it also poses more of a risk.
but yes, you are right, i just didnt elaborate enough on what i was thinking
#12
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Spraying on a 4ljunkie at all is brave
I'd be turning the nitrous off before the shift point, and back on at 3000, or whatever rpm you feel safe.
I've found, that most guys that have backfire issues, have it because too much too early, example, a 100 shot you probably can do at 2500 rpm, 200 I wouldn't try it though, that needs the 3000 rpm, too much too early and the pressures get too high and you get backfires/detonation issues... if that makes sense.
I'd be turning the nitrous off before the shift point, and back on at 3000, or whatever rpm you feel safe.
I've found, that most guys that have backfire issues, have it because too much too early, example, a 100 shot you probably can do at 2500 rpm, 200 I wouldn't try it though, that needs the 3000 rpm, too much too early and the pressures get too high and you get backfires/detonation issues... if that makes sense.
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JL people are making big power reliably on 60's these days
I have a few friends & customers making 600+ rwhp with 0 issues on FLT builds.
N20 spraying through shifts
FI setups which power through the shifts
We just did an APS 2002 SS which made 860 with a 60E.
I have a few friends & customers making 600+ rwhp with 0 issues on FLT builds.
N20 spraying through shifts
FI setups which power through the shifts
We just did an APS 2002 SS which made 860 with a 60E.
#14
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Get back to me on that 860 rw car once it's got 15K on it, especially if the owner floggs that car good.
That tranny, hell NONE of the 4ljunkie's will take that for long, transmission just does not have the ability to take it, and I wouldn't consider anything less then 40 to 50K on it without any problems really withstanding the abuse. You should be on your second set of rings and bearings before the tranny gives up the ghost, and I feel pretty safe saying that ain't gonna happen.
I've put it out there before, if one of these tranny builders thinks their 4ljunkie can take being in a race car send it to me, I get an entire season out of it with no problems I'll buy it and pimp the thing to the end of time. Ya know what? Not one offer.
That tranny, hell NONE of the 4ljunkie's will take that for long, transmission just does not have the ability to take it, and I wouldn't consider anything less then 40 to 50K on it without any problems really withstanding the abuse. You should be on your second set of rings and bearings before the tranny gives up the ghost, and I feel pretty safe saying that ain't gonna happen.
I've put it out there before, if one of these tranny builders thinks their 4ljunkie can take being in a race car send it to me, I get an entire season out of it with no problems I'll buy it and pimp the thing to the end of time. Ya know what? Not one offer.
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I will agree the 800HP car might need some freshening in due time ( we got the car with the trans )
I also sprayed my dads car throght the shifts for 2 seasons on a stock trans and it never gave us an issue. ( 3600# car and many low 1.4 60ft's) We do have a FLT unit now just to be safe.
to be honest though who looks to get mileage out of a race car? I will note my brothers Ls1/4L60E Malibu probably has 20K miles on a 60 with many 10.teen passes on it with 0 issues ( 3500 # car and 1.4 60 ft's)
There are many people who still like to drive their cars to the track and a 350/400 sucks IMO. I've been there and the reason I swapped my 350 out for a FLT 4L60E.
I plan to drive to the track & spray through the shifts this coming year looking to go mid-low 9's. I guess we will have to see how the 4L60E junk hold up
I will agree that a more track oriented car has no reason not to have a TH350/400 or Glide ( depending on combo )
JL please note: I'm not arguing , but rather talking via the internet
I also sprayed my dads car throght the shifts for 2 seasons on a stock trans and it never gave us an issue. ( 3600# car and many low 1.4 60ft's) We do have a FLT unit now just to be safe.
to be honest though who looks to get mileage out of a race car? I will note my brothers Ls1/4L60E Malibu probably has 20K miles on a 60 with many 10.teen passes on it with 0 issues ( 3500 # car and 1.4 60 ft's)
There are many people who still like to drive their cars to the track and a 350/400 sucks IMO. I've been there and the reason I swapped my 350 out for a FLT 4L60E.
I plan to drive to the track & spray through the shifts this coming year looking to go mid-low 9's. I guess we will have to see how the 4L60E junk hold up
I will agree that a more track oriented car has no reason not to have a TH350/400 or Glide ( depending on combo )
JL please note: I'm not arguing , but rather talking via the internet
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i know was talking to ts6 about that. I wouldnt run a 4l60 in a 800+hp car either, but for a mild set up it isnt to bad. My goal is to see how long the 4l60 will last running bottom 10s when i get back. It will be built by a local shop though
#20
FLT has several cars running 4L60E's in the 9 second range that see not only many track passes but several street miles every season. Are they maintenance free? No, of course not. I've spoken with them about it a few times when I did the TH400 in my Z28. But, getting a full season out of one isn't a problem.
Arguing that they won't last through 15,000 miles and making 9 second passes every week is stupid, you probably won't find a TH350/400 that can do that either. Any car making that kind of power and being beat on regularly will require freshening on the trans and everything else for that matter.
Arguing that they won't last through 15,000 miles and making 9 second passes every week is stupid, you probably won't find a TH350/400 that can do that either. Any car making that kind of power and being beat on regularly will require freshening on the trans and everything else for that matter.