Looking to build an amazing suspension
12-24-2009, 09:05 PM
#1
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Looking to build an amazing suspension Well I took my 98 M6 trans am to 11.25 in 5500 DA "cam only" with a 125 shot running out of gear. The car would pull the fronts running 13's and all I had was a 9" with 4.10's, BMR extreme torque arm, BMR extreme rear sway bar, BMR LCA's, comp rear drag shocks, QA1's in the front, sphon subframes and H&R lowering springs.
I deleted teh front sway bar and that and removed the AC but that is about all I did to the front of the car.
I sold it and people are talking chit, now so I'm building another.
The car is a 98 firebird stripper. (hard top and no power) I'm picking up a narrowed 2.5 " on each side moser 9" with 3.70 gears and can get a tubular K-member for cheap. What I want to know is what does everybody recommend as far as Torque Arms, LCA's, front suspension, rear suspension etc. I plan on mini-tubbing the car and tucking 28's. The car will be a strip car that occasionally sees the street. Motor wise, I'm planning a 4XX cubic inch LSX motor with a 300 shot.
Any help or suggestions is greatly appriciated (sp)
I deleted teh front sway bar and that and removed the AC but that is about all I did to the front of the car.
I sold it and people are talking chit, now so I'm building another.
The car is a 98 firebird stripper. (hard top and no power) I'm picking up a narrowed 2.5 " on each side moser 9" with 3.70 gears and can get a tubular K-member for cheap. What I want to know is what does everybody recommend as far as Torque Arms, LCA's, front suspension, rear suspension etc. I plan on mini-tubbing the car and tucking 28's. The car will be a strip car that occasionally sees the street. Motor wise, I'm planning a 4XX cubic inch LSX motor with a 300 shot.
Any help or suggestions is greatly appriciated (sp)
12-24-2009, 10:28 PM
#2
Get in touch with BMR or UMI (sponsors here) and ask them what they suggest for your applications.
For the rear if you haven't bought a rear yet I'd look into a Midwest Chassis setup. For the price and what you get, it's a bargain.
You don't need to put tubs in for 28" tires but it'll make it easier.
I suggest good shocks on all corners and 300 or 325lb springs up front depending on your estimated weight.
Depending on your budget. Get full lightweight suspension pieces (k-member,A-arms,brakes,spindles, etc) and take some extra weight off the nose.
~Jim~
For the rear if you haven't bought a rear yet I'd look into a Midwest Chassis setup. For the price and what you get, it's a bargain.
You don't need to put tubs in for 28" tires but it'll make it easier.
I suggest good shocks on all corners and 300 or 325lb springs up front depending on your estimated weight.
Depending on your budget. Get full lightweight suspension pieces (k-member,A-arms,brakes,spindles, etc) and take some extra weight off the nose.
~Jim~
12-24-2009, 10:44 PM
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Can get a possible BMR k-member cheap, just want to know what is recommended as the best as far as street driving as well. This car will see street miles, not many but occasionally. Also I already bought the rear as I could pass up the deal. The tubs are to hopefully tuck 325/50/15's for on the street. Just looking for any more advice.
12-28-2009, 07:36 AM
#4
Hello
I noticed that you are looking into upgrading your suspension! Our K Member feature a duel tube technology to make the K Member solid. I just wanted to leave you know that we are in the process of running a sale at the moment and it would be a good time to take advantage of the money saving opportunity. Below is link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...tlcf7usjev5d46
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
I noticed that you are looking into upgrading your suspension! Our K Member feature a duel tube technology to make the K Member solid. I just wanted to leave you know that we are in the process of running a sale at the moment and it would be a good time to take advantage of the money saving opportunity. Below is link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...tlcf7usjev5d46
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
12-28-2009, 12:59 PM
#5
It seems like UMI's K-member is getting the best ratings as far as a street piece. Just like anything though you have to choose what's more important, weight or street durability. A race piece will be lighter then a street piece and for the most part it looks like everyone who's been using a lighter piece has been fine. (I'd research it more though before you bought a race piece)
I'll be running a BMR k-member on the street in the spring and I'm not worried about it. It's a pretty stout piece.
Front suspension depends on your weight and wallet. Big budget go AFCO. Littler budget, go Strange DA. The DA's will give you better adjustability with the M6. Springs are based on your weight. I wouldn't go lower then 300lb. If it's a fairly heavy car go 325lb. Leave the stock rear springs. Also go DA on the rear shocks since it's an M6.
LCA'a are pretty cookie cutter. decide if you want a rod end or other. Then shop around. Once you start to get to a certain size tire you may have to look into an offset LCA. I can't remember what size starts to get into this territory though.
As for the torque arm find something that you know will fit your rear with out issue.(This was the reason I went with midwest) Then figure out if you want a long or short arm. The way I understood it is the longer arms help you keep nose from hunting the sky but the shorter arm will hit the tires harder.
I Hope that was of some help. Good luck
~Jim~
I'll be running a BMR k-member on the street in the spring and I'm not worried about it. It's a pretty stout piece.
Front suspension depends on your weight and wallet. Big budget go AFCO. Littler budget, go Strange DA. The DA's will give you better adjustability with the M6. Springs are based on your weight. I wouldn't go lower then 300lb. If it's a fairly heavy car go 325lb. Leave the stock rear springs. Also go DA on the rear shocks since it's an M6.
LCA'a are pretty cookie cutter. decide if you want a rod end or other. Then shop around. Once you start to get to a certain size tire you may have to look into an offset LCA. I can't remember what size starts to get into this territory though.
As for the torque arm find something that you know will fit your rear with out issue.(This was the reason I went with midwest) Then figure out if you want a long or short arm. The way I understood it is the longer arms help you keep nose from hunting the sky but the shorter arm will hit the tires harder.
I Hope that was of some help. Good luck
~Jim~
12-28-2009, 04:10 PM
#6
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im sorry "DA" on the rear shocks means... i have bmr springs with tokico shocks that i think are already shot cause i bottom out over everything in the rear, front seems to be ok. was looking for that article i found on durability of monotube vs the other style tube for shocks.. i think ive settled on koni adjustables? what setting should i run? and bump for bmr and a good product and help