Radiator Hose T - steam line part number????
#2
This is not OEM, but I used one from Jegs. You can replace the drain fitting with a 1/4NPT hose barb. They come in different hose sizes.
Steve
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51155/10002/-1
Steve
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51155/10002/-1
#3
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I used a flex-a-lite version. Black anodized aluminum;
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...cessories.html
pt#32082
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...cessories.html
pt#32082
#4
Those two are awesome.
Scratch the OEM, I confused that.
Maybe it is a Dorman product????
I thought I had seen a simple plastic one with a T that was a Dorman or something like that.
Either of these other two are great.
I capped the steam line off and have had no problems for five years. However, I am getting ready to road race the car in May and figure anything to avoid hot spots would be good.
Scratch the OEM, I confused that.
Maybe it is a Dorman product????
I thought I had seen a simple plastic one with a T that was a Dorman or something like that.
Either of these other two are great.
I capped the steam line off and have had no problems for five years. However, I am getting ready to road race the car in May and figure anything to avoid hot spots would be good.
#7
If you want the correct size for your hoses (1-5/16") or for splicing one hose size to another hose size, JTR has the parts.
See this link:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...g_LSI-tee.html
If you want to see if you have foaming problems while racing the car, search for "sight glass."
See this link:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...g_LSI-tee.html
If you want to see if you have foaming problems while racing the car, search for "sight glass."
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#8
If you want the correct size for your hoses (1-5/16") or for splicing one hose size to another hose size, JTR has the parts.
See this link:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...g_LSI-tee.html
If you want to see if you have foaming problems while racing the car, search for "sight glass."
See this link:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...g_LSI-tee.html
If you want to see if you have foaming problems while racing the car, search for "sight glass."
#9
This is not OEM, but I used one from Jegs. You can replace the drain fitting with a 1/4NPT hose barb. They come in different hose sizes.
Steve
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51155/10002/-1
Steve
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51155/10002/-1
#13
vent tube routing
i just ran mine straight out & t'ed it into the vent line that goes from the radiator filler neck to the over flow bottle, instant t/b bypass & as far as I know it works great for both the steam vent & the t/b bypass! no probs as of yet, an easy way around both issues that looks good too.3
kinda hard to see in this pic, maybe ill take more?
kinda hard to see in this pic, maybe ill take more?
Last edited by LS1FBIRDTA; 03-05-2010 at 10:02 PM.
#14
Hey Ls1FBIRDTA - If I understand what you are describing, you put the t/b steam line direct to the radiator overflow line that goes to the overflow bottle? If this is an open vented bottle, that probably isn't a great idea. If this is a sealed surge tank radiator holding tank (often these have a heater hose routed through as well) from an OEM - than that might be okay, because those style never "vent" out to an unsealed area.
FYI - I have had my steam line capped now for over 11K miles and zero problems despite what others say about this. However, headed to do some road racing and auto X - I know it is going to get hot and it needs to allow that steam/bubbles to work out into the main system and not dead-head at the heads.
FYI - I have had my steam line capped now for over 11K miles and zero problems despite what others say about this. However, headed to do some road racing and auto X - I know it is going to get hot and it needs to allow that steam/bubbles to work out into the main system and not dead-head at the heads.
#16
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You could use this piece from Dorman too. Should be available at NAPA and places like that.
Its Dorman 47112. I used it, and it worked fine for me.
Or you can drill and tap the spot where the upper rad hose would connect if the water pump was for a truck. It needs to be a 1/8" NPT thread. Get a brass hose barb with 1/8" NPT and your done, lots of people do it.
Its Dorman 47112. I used it, and it worked fine for me.
Or you can drill and tap the spot where the upper rad hose would connect if the water pump was for a truck. It needs to be a 1/8" NPT thread. Get a brass hose barb with 1/8" NPT and your done, lots of people do it.
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You could use this piece from Dorman too. Should be available at NAPA and places like that.
Its Dorman 47112. I used it, and it worked fine for me.
Or you can drill and tap the spot where the upper rad hose would connect if the water pump was for a truck. It needs to be a 1/8" NPT thread. Get a brass hose barb with 1/8" NPT and your done, lots of people do it.
Its Dorman 47112. I used it, and it worked fine for me.
Or you can drill and tap the spot where the upper rad hose would connect if the water pump was for a truck. It needs to be a 1/8" NPT thread. Get a brass hose barb with 1/8" NPT and your done, lots of people do it.
I know its an old thread but that dorman part comes up as 3/4" x 3/8" x 3/4". I thought the hose was bigger than 3/4?
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This:
looks awesome. In a pinch though, I was wondering if this would work...what if I made a hole in the radiator hose, inserted a fitting that the steam vent hose connected to, and epoxied the fitting to the hose with some cold weld epoxy? or something like water weld?
Anyone see any problems with this?
looks awesome. In a pinch though, I was wondering if this would work...what if I made a hole in the radiator hose, inserted a fitting that the steam vent hose connected to, and epoxied the fitting to the hose with some cold weld epoxy? or something like water weld?
Anyone see any problems with this?