Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

I spent the entire weekend replacing front end parts to try and correct my alignment issues. The inside edges of the front tires always wore quicker than the rest of the tire not to mention darting, following grooves, and making it almost unmanageable for someone else to drive my car.

New lower control arm bushings - Moog
New upper offest bushings - Strano
New upper and lower ball joints - Moog
New tie rod ends - Moog
New frotn sway bar endlinks - Moog

Camber settings are maxed but I've never been anywhere close to these numbers before. I usually have a camber of -1.7 to -2.3. The offset bushings helped. Still pulls to the left a little. Any suggestions?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

You mention inside tire wear as an issue....Both negative camber, as well as "toe out" will cause this.

The spec sheet you provide shows both. Keep in mind, "negative" toe is actually toe-out. 1 degree of negative camber will provide good cornering, but a little "trammeling" on irregular pavement, and promote inside edge wear.

I run "zero" camber on both sides, and .04* toe in on each side for a total of .08* of total toe (in).

Your caster numbers are good, the caster split is good too, however I run about a half degree more on both sides.


Just my $0.02 worth......

joecar

Try something like this (see attached):

camber is slightly negative, toe is barely positive (in).

$0.02.

Jeff 97 Formula

My alignment specs are almost the same as joecar's, but my right-side caster is 3.2 (slightly drifted to the left before when the right caster was 4.2, left caster was 4.7). Rear thrust angle is -0.01, rear-left camber is 0.0, rear-right camber is 0.1, front-left camber is 0.1, front-right camber is 0.0, total front toe is 0.03.

For some reason, my car drives as straight as an arrow even with the caster set crazy like that (nothing is bent underneath either). Actually, my car now drives the best it's ever driven since taking delivery of the car.

I'm not saying to set your caster like mine (since mine looks out of whack on paper). But you might want to increase caster on your left to match the right side.

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

My adjustments are maxed out. I'm lowered on Strano springs and Koni shocks. The camber can't go any lower.

I am still getting a popping in the front end which makes the tires jerk when reversing. I also have a pull to the left. I changed all the parts out because i thought it would fix it but no luck. I even checked the sway bar bushings. Any ideas?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

When you say "maxed out", do you mean that that if you look at the lower a-arm bolts from the front of the car, they're all the way toward the center of the car, and can't go "inward" any further? If so, you could lenghten the slots using a dremel tool or die grinder. I did that to my car, but didn't wind up needing the extra adjustment that it gave me.

If I were to hazard a guess regarding the "pull to the left", I'd say that your left wheel is "toed-out" a bit more than the right, and maybe that's the cause??



BTW, I don't understand why you can't get closer to "zero" on your camber. I didn't have any problems getting mine there, and although I just put a Strano/Koni set-up in my car a few weeks back, it seems to have raised the car a bit over the Eibach ProKit/Bilstein set up I had in it for the previous several years.