is it possible to do a line lock and 2 step on same button?
#1
is it possible to do a line lock and 2 step on same button?
i'm looking for quicker reaction times. this idea is probably REALLY far fetched, but what would happen if i did a 2 step and line lock, and wired them to the same button? sort of simulating a trans brake but not as harsh on the transmission.
basically in my mind i would be able to do a normal brake stand burnout, roll up to the line, mash the brake and push a button which would arm the 2 step and t-brake.
i could set the 2 step at a rpm to not push through the brakes and the window switch for the nitrous above my 2-step. in my non-experienced world it would be the same as foot braking but a little easier to react to the light. on the other hand i have never used a 2 step or line lock and dont know what could possibly go wrong when using them in conjunction...dont laugh too hard at me guys lol. im "thinking outside the box"
basically in my mind i would be able to do a normal brake stand burnout, roll up to the line, mash the brake and push a button which would arm the 2 step and t-brake.
i could set the 2 step at a rpm to not push through the brakes and the window switch for the nitrous above my 2-step. in my non-experienced world it would be the same as foot braking but a little easier to react to the light. on the other hand i have never used a 2 step or line lock and dont know what could possibly go wrong when using them in conjunction...dont laugh too hard at me guys lol. im "thinking outside the box"
#2
This is very do-able... and if you looked around your local track I'd bet you find a few guys set up this way. You can actually do line lock, 2-step, and delay box. I've had that set-up before.
Get on the line-lock side of your line-lock switch(supplying 12v). Tie in another wire to go to a toggle switch and then to your 2-step from there(all the 2-steps I've delt with are activated by a 12v supply). When you do your burn-out using your line-lock, just have the 2-step toggle off. Then turn the toggle on, and when you stage and engage your line-lock, the 2-step will get it's 12v and be activated... when you release the line-lock to launch, the 2-step turns off as well.
I've also seen folks put another line-lock on that 2-step toggle switch that holds the rear brakes as well. It's a good set-up. You'll just need to check with local track officials and see what permitted in certain classes. I know that most "foot-brake" or "No-Electronics" classes won't allow it for competition.
Patrick
Get on the line-lock side of your line-lock switch(supplying 12v). Tie in another wire to go to a toggle switch and then to your 2-step from there(all the 2-steps I've delt with are activated by a 12v supply). When you do your burn-out using your line-lock, just have the 2-step toggle off. Then turn the toggle on, and when you stage and engage your line-lock, the 2-step will get it's 12v and be activated... when you release the line-lock to launch, the 2-step turns off as well.
I've also seen folks put another line-lock on that 2-step toggle switch that holds the rear brakes as well. It's a good set-up. You'll just need to check with local track officials and see what permitted in certain classes. I know that most "foot-brake" or "No-Electronics" classes won't allow it for competition.
Patrick
#3
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I tried it once, and since the car will still be "loading" the chassis when using a line lock with a 2-step versus a transbrake with a 2-step, I wouldn't do it. Try different spots on the 'tree, count the bulbs, etc. There are a bunch of different ways to cut the light, and believe me I've tried a few
Derek
Derek
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ken
#6
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Thats what a MSD 3 step is for. You have a limiter for high rev, launch limiter, and a burn out limiter. You just have to wire them into buttons. You could wire a single button for a Line lock and launch limiter. and one just to the line lock. Whenever the certain button is pressed that RPM chip is activated.
ken
ken
I need to look into that. Being a M6 car that would help alot at the line.
#7
I tried it once, and since the car will still be "loading" the chassis when using a line lock with a 2-step versus a transbrake with a 2-step, I wouldn't do it. Try different spots on the 'tree, count the bulbs, etc. There are a bunch of different ways to cut the light, and believe me I've tried a few
Derek
Derek
i only brake stall to about 1500 to 2,000 RPM at the line with a converter that will easily brake stall to 3k rpm. since i dont brake stall too hard, will the front brakes hold? im not woring with little 26" tires either. my fronts are 255/55 18".
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#8
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.
I'm not going to argue with a keyboard expert.
When you say you did it that way, and have seen folks do it with both,
that means OTHERS had both, not you, after getting caught passing BS
you try back pedaling, too late.
I have a high stall (6300) on my BBC, and low chip and there is no way in hell, it would work.
It still moves, no way the front line lock holds, even my giant tires.
I'm not an engineering expect about loads, and friction, and slippage.
I have been dragracing for a week or 2, and none of my cars would work with a front only line lock, as a brake. Maybe it's the HP at my level, you just can't do it with your foot on the wood??
.
I'm not going to argue with a keyboard expert.
When you say you did it that way, and have seen folks do it with both,
that means OTHERS had both, not you, after getting caught passing BS
you try back pedaling, too late.
I have a high stall (6300) on my BBC, and low chip and there is no way in hell, it would work.
It still moves, no way the front line lock holds, even my giant tires.
I'm not an engineering expect about loads, and friction, and slippage.
I have been dragracing for a week or 2, and none of my cars would work with a front only line lock, as a brake. Maybe it's the HP at my level, you just can't do it with your foot on the wood??
.
calm down dude, and yes it can be made to work, ask me how i know.
#9
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the class i run is on a pro tree. a foot brake with a 29" front tire and a 4,500LB race weight isnt a great combo to cut amazing lights. im usually in the .09 to .110 R/T area...nowhere near good enough when the competition is cutting .01 to .03 or better.
i only brake stall to about 1500 to 2,000 RPM at the line with a converter that will easily brake stall to 3k rpm. since i dont brake stall too hard, will the front brakes hold? im not woring with little 26" tires either. my fronts are 255/55 18".
i only brake stall to about 1500 to 2,000 RPM at the line with a converter that will easily brake stall to 3k rpm. since i dont brake stall too hard, will the front brakes hold? im not woring with little 26" tires either. my fronts are 255/55 18".