Clutch replacement questions
04-24-2010, 03:58 PM
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Clutch replacement questions I'm looking to replace my clutch on my 00 WS6. A few questions for those of you who've done one on this car:
-Any reccomendations for brands/kits for a good deal? Zoom has a complete kit w/ flywheel and everything for $400 i'm tempted to get, but i'd like a slight improvement over OEM organic. I had a centerforce dual friction on my old rig' i loved and will probably go w/ if nothing else. I'm just looking for a step up from OEm really while i'm puttin the time in to drop the tranny, not looking for a double clutch setup or anything crazy.
-Is the throwout bearing some expensive hydraulic unit?
I had an old 95 LT1 w/ a 6 spd T56 and remember it was a regular throwout bearing w/ a fork moved by pushrod from a slave hydraulic cylinder.
I ask because while looking through summit i noticed some $150 plus throwout bearing w/ 2 hydraulic hose inlets on it. Is that standard or is that some special type of upgrade?
Basically does this have the same style regular ol throwout bearing as my LT1 T56 had?
-Is the motor externally or internally balanced/ Do i need a balanced or unbalanced flywheel?
-Anyone know a place in town on a saturday I could get a flywheel machined at?
-any special tools needed to remove pilot bearing besides a puller type tool that would fit?
-When looking through summit, i notice there's several diameter and spline count options - how's that possible when its the same tranny in all of them? what should i be looking for for those specs for the stock 6 spd?
-Should I be concerned about replacing the fork as a standard procedure?
Also, a little off subject, I noticed my A/C system is a FOT (fixed orifice tube) type, whereas my old LT1 was an expansion valve type system. With my 00 WS6, when it gets real hot out here, my A/C system blows fine unless i'm driving above about 3000 to 3500 rpm under load constantly, it starts blowing warm or losing efficiency.
Is this just a poorly designed FOT system and this is common/normal or am I experiencing a problem ? (the FOT is new and not restricted and charge is good)
Thanks for your time
-Drew
-Any reccomendations for brands/kits for a good deal? Zoom has a complete kit w/ flywheel and everything for $400 i'm tempted to get, but i'd like a slight improvement over OEM organic. I had a centerforce dual friction on my old rig' i loved and will probably go w/ if nothing else. I'm just looking for a step up from OEm really while i'm puttin the time in to drop the tranny, not looking for a double clutch setup or anything crazy.
-Is the throwout bearing some expensive hydraulic unit?
I had an old 95 LT1 w/ a 6 spd T56 and remember it was a regular throwout bearing w/ a fork moved by pushrod from a slave hydraulic cylinder.
I ask because while looking through summit i noticed some $150 plus throwout bearing w/ 2 hydraulic hose inlets on it. Is that standard or is that some special type of upgrade?
Basically does this have the same style regular ol throwout bearing as my LT1 T56 had?
-Is the motor externally or internally balanced/ Do i need a balanced or unbalanced flywheel?
-Anyone know a place in town on a saturday I could get a flywheel machined at?
-any special tools needed to remove pilot bearing besides a puller type tool that would fit?
-When looking through summit, i notice there's several diameter and spline count options - how's that possible when its the same tranny in all of them? what should i be looking for for those specs for the stock 6 spd?
-Should I be concerned about replacing the fork as a standard procedure?
Also, a little off subject, I noticed my A/C system is a FOT (fixed orifice tube) type, whereas my old LT1 was an expansion valve type system. With my 00 WS6, when it gets real hot out here, my A/C system blows fine unless i'm driving above about 3000 to 3500 rpm under load constantly, it starts blowing warm or losing efficiency.
Is this just a poorly designed FOT system and this is common/normal or am I experiencing a problem ? (the FOT is new and not restricted and charge is good)
Thanks for your time
-Drew
04-24-2010, 10:44 PM
#2
I would personally go with one of monsters single discs setups, Go larger than you need so you will have it available if you ever decide to hop it up.
Yes the throwout bearing is mounted to the slave cylinder which is over a 100 bucks. Monster includes this with their kit, also include a flywheel, So you will not have to worry about measuring to see if you need a slave shim.
The LS1 is an internally balanced engine, When you buy an LS clutch kit it should already be zero balanced.
If you surface your flywheel you will absolutely need a shim behind the flywheel to make up what they cut off.
You can buy the removal tool from harbor freight, If you rent the one from autozone it wont fit, unless you get their blind hole puller set, like a 180 dollar deposit.
Not sure about diameter you are referring to unless they are talking about disc diameter, and spline count I am not sure of, Should be all the same for LS1
Only fork you can replace is inside the trans, and You better know what you are doing if you open that.
Cant help with the ac system, Dont know much about them. Except everything to do with them is expensive.
Hope this helps ya out.
Once again I would really look into monster clutches, You will get everything you need, and their customer service is second to none, as well as their products.
Yes the throwout bearing is mounted to the slave cylinder which is over a 100 bucks. Monster includes this with their kit, also include a flywheel, So you will not have to worry about measuring to see if you need a slave shim.
The LS1 is an internally balanced engine, When you buy an LS clutch kit it should already be zero balanced.
If you surface your flywheel you will absolutely need a shim behind the flywheel to make up what they cut off.
You can buy the removal tool from harbor freight, If you rent the one from autozone it wont fit, unless you get their blind hole puller set, like a 180 dollar deposit.
Not sure about diameter you are referring to unless they are talking about disc diameter, and spline count I am not sure of, Should be all the same for LS1
Only fork you can replace is inside the trans, and You better know what you are doing if you open that.
Cant help with the ac system, Dont know much about them. Except everything to do with them is expensive.
Hope this helps ya out.
Once again I would really look into monster clutches, You will get everything you need, and their customer service is second to none, as well as their products.
04-25-2010, 09:01 AM
#4
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I just finished a Monster stage 3 intall on my Z. Good price for the inclusive premium kit imo....guess I am partial now
Has worked perfectly for my first 100 miles, no chatter, just grabs and goes. Blind hole puller makes pilot removal a breeze, this was my first clutch and I had no issues, not a bad job, just take your time.
Has worked perfectly for my first 100 miles, no chatter, just grabs and goes. Blind hole puller makes pilot removal a breeze, this was my first clutch and I had no issues, not a bad job, just take your time.
04-27-2010, 09:19 AM
#6
i dont know if theres any difference, but i think you can get the slave at a napa store for about 90 bucks. i wouldnt pay 150+shipping for it.
take your time, pay attention, maybe take a few notes or pics, you'll be fine. scoggin-dickey usually has a good price on the ls7, if its a daily driver under 500 hp, that one has a lot of good feedback from many users. think realistically, if you are going to actually outgrow it, and need more clutch (more $$$), or are you gonna just drive it?
take your time, pay attention, maybe take a few notes or pics, you'll be fine. scoggin-dickey usually has a good price on the ls7, if its a daily driver under 500 hp, that one has a lot of good feedback from many users. think realistically, if you are going to actually outgrow it, and need more clutch (more $$$), or are you gonna just drive it?
