kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

My driver side window will every couple of weeks go into the auto roll down when I roll it down and the window just drops off track. Sometimes it stays on track the motor just winds too fast. The passenger side motor I have adjusted every month to make the window roll all the way up to the weatherstripping then it starts gapping about 1/4 inch. I have took these doors apart and adjust the window motors positions and tracks several times. The motors are around 3 years old as I replaced them before.


I recently ordered a new set of window and lock switches for the car because the old ones looked awful (images rubbed off and faded). I was wondering if any problem in the switch (since they come with some part of the electrical stuff attached because I just pull the wires off the old one and plug them in on the board on this one) could fix my problem or if I need a new motor.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like motors.

The bit with the window coming off the track is not a common thing. What does the roller that pops out look like? Maybe its broken? It should be impossible for that thing to come out of the track.

For the other window, you'll want to make sure you don't have this problem starting: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html

FiredUpZ28

Make sure the rivet holes holding the regulator to the inner door haven't been stretched out.

kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

I did pinpoint one problem, the bolts that go one the SMC fiberglass inner door part to window motor have slid down and wore the smc out. Any idea on an apoxy for this? I have the expensive SMC to door skin adhesive stuff used to bond the door skin to the inner door part

kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

read that thread and OMG it's a life saver thank you

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

A lot of people are having this problem. It seems that its happening to people who use bolts or the wrong rivets during regulator replacements. (GM sells a special steel mandrel, aluminum jacketed rivet needed for use on the fiberglass. Steel bolts and steel rivets will tear through the glass.)

Check the link above again. Post #32 shows the plate fix. Basically, you need to use a steel plate to create new good holes for the regulator to attach to. Once you have steel in the equation, it shouldn't matter what rivets are used to secure everything.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

BTW - The switches get dirty real easy. Drug stores sell two concentrations of rubbing alcohol. If you get the more dilute version, you can rub the switches with the rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip and they will look as good as new! Just make sure you don't over-do it. If you leave the alcohol on the plastic, it may start to dissolve it.

kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

From what I understood of that thread they used rivets to make the plate stick to the fiberglass part of the door. Wouldn't those eventually cause the fiberglass to wear out the same as the bolts did? I'm thinking of using some sort of adhesive to make the metal plate stick to the door

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I think the rivets when through the plate then door to the regulator.

Regardless, I think your plan to bond the steel to the fiberglass is the best method. That way, you'll take the issue of rivets bearing on the fiberglass out of the equation completely.

86zcamaro

iTrader: (8)

I paid a shop to replace the drivers side and was pissed off to find out it had been done before using screws, I could have easily done it myself if I would have known. Think mine came from oreily's

I havent had problems except that one and ive put 35k miles on my car,01 z28

My moms 02 transam had one go bad and ripped the window tint, replaced under warranty before the 36k miles yet it didnt cover the window tint..