Volvo 240 LSX Swap
06-13-2010, 11:44 AM
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Volvo 240 LSX Swap I'm trying to discuss this swap with maybe a few people that have successfully completed one. I've got a '79 Volvo 242 with the stock B21F, K-Jet, and the M46 tranny. I'm looking to shoe-horn a LS1 with a T56 and either modify the GM 10-bolt rear end to fit in the back, or use a 31-spline Ford 8.8" rear end.
My questions, for now, are relative to the motor and tranny swap. I spoke with they guy at JTR, who didn't seem to have much information for me...maybe I just need to buy his book. He said his motor mount piece, which isn't currently available anymore, is for the SBC or LT1...he didn't think it would fit the LSX...what's the difference? Will I need an adapter to go from his piece to the LSX or do I just need to make my own mount?
Also, I just upgraded to an IPD 25mm front sway bar. Looking underneath the car, I now understand why JTR requires the use of a Diesel 240 sway bar...it has a lower drop in the center for greater clearance for larger engines. This bar is hard to come by, but when I see one, I'll snag it. Has anyone who's put a LSX in a 240 found a way around this...use a shallower oil pan perhaps?
I've got a friend who can weld, really well...can we just weld on some motor mounts to the stock Volvo K-Frame? Also, what are you all doing for a trans mount? JTR doesn't have one for a T56...how difficult is this to make? Has anyone made a tubular Chro-Moly replacement K-Frame with SBC or LSX mounts already there?
I'm in the market for a LS1...if I can't find one with a T56, is the motor from an automatic Camaro any different? Only reason I ask is that I know with my Miata, the automatic cars ran lower compression than the manual cars...making my auto to manual swap a little less worth it. Is the engine harness different...I trust the computer certainly is.
I'm also curious about transmission fitments. Is the T56 from a Camaro any different from a Mustang or Viper? Will shifter location be way off? From what I've read, this shouldn't be a problem, but this is why I'm asking if anyone's crossed this bridge before.
My questions, for now, are relative to the motor and tranny swap. I spoke with they guy at JTR, who didn't seem to have much information for me...maybe I just need to buy his book. He said his motor mount piece, which isn't currently available anymore, is for the SBC or LT1...he didn't think it would fit the LSX...what's the difference? Will I need an adapter to go from his piece to the LSX or do I just need to make my own mount?
Also, I just upgraded to an IPD 25mm front sway bar. Looking underneath the car, I now understand why JTR requires the use of a Diesel 240 sway bar...it has a lower drop in the center for greater clearance for larger engines. This bar is hard to come by, but when I see one, I'll snag it. Has anyone who's put a LSX in a 240 found a way around this...use a shallower oil pan perhaps?
I've got a friend who can weld, really well...can we just weld on some motor mounts to the stock Volvo K-Frame? Also, what are you all doing for a trans mount? JTR doesn't have one for a T56...how difficult is this to make? Has anyone made a tubular Chro-Moly replacement K-Frame with SBC or LSX mounts already there?
I'm in the market for a LS1...if I can't find one with a T56, is the motor from an automatic Camaro any different? Only reason I ask is that I know with my Miata, the automatic cars ran lower compression than the manual cars...making my auto to manual swap a little less worth it. Is the engine harness different...I trust the computer certainly is.
I'm also curious about transmission fitments. Is the T56 from a Camaro any different from a Mustang or Viper? Will shifter location be way off? From what I've read, this shouldn't be a problem, but this is why I'm asking if anyone's crossed this bridge before.
06-13-2010, 11:48 AM
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I also forgot to ask about strength of the GM 10-Bolt rear end. Most Volvo guys seem to opt for the Explorer 8.8" rear end. It comes with a locker diff, has really strong 31-spline axles and fits in really, really nicely. You just cut the longer axle tube to the length of the shorter one.
I'm shooting for 650-800 hp for this car...clearly not out of a stock LS1; I just want to be prepared. Will a GM 10-Bolt handle this as well as the 8.8"? If I'm buying a wrecked Camaro...is it worth it to modify the 10-bolt or sell it to fund the 8.8?
I'm shooting for 650-800 hp for this car...clearly not out of a stock LS1; I just want to be prepared. Will a GM 10-Bolt handle this as well as the 8.8"? If I'm buying a wrecked Camaro...is it worth it to modify the 10-bolt or sell it to fund the 8.8?
06-13-2010, 04:47 PM
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I also forgot to ask about strength of the GM 10-Bolt rear end. Most Volvo guys seem to opt for the Explorer 8.8" rear end. It comes with a locker diff, has really strong 31-spline axles and fits in really, really nicely. You just cut the longer axle tube to the length of the shorter one.
I'm shooting for 650-800 hp for this car...clearly not out of a stock LS1; I just want to be prepared. Will a GM 10-Bolt handle this as well as the 8.8"? If I'm buying a wrecked Camaro...is it worth it to modify the 10-bolt or sell it to fund the 8.8?
I'm shooting for 650-800 hp for this car...clearly not out of a stock LS1; I just want to be prepared. Will a GM 10-Bolt handle this as well as the 8.8"? If I'm buying a wrecked Camaro...is it worth it to modify the 10-bolt or sell it to fund the 8.8?
06-13-2010, 10:29 PM
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what to do about an oil pan though...is that where the proposed clearance issue can be remedied. anyone on this board with an lsx volvo 240?
06-18-2010, 09:49 PM
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volvo conversion Myles,
I have a 1995 volvo 940 with an LS-1. I got the adapters from JTR and they are just aluminum spacers that adapt the old style GM mount to the volvo crossmember. You have to get ls-1 adapters off of ebay to make the old style mount work with LS-1. I have the original Dana 35 in my car. My car dynoed at 340 to the rear wheels and the rear end is still hanging in there. There are no tubular crossmembers available, so you will have to fab one and if you can do that you will not need the JTR kit. Oil pan clearance is tight on these cars, I had to use a hummer pan to make it work and make a skid plate because the pan hangs down below the crossmember. I don't know of a difference between auto and manual motors, but the computer is. As far as wiring, I used a painless harness, but there are guys out there that will convert a standard f-body harness to a stand-alone one. There is a guy named Dug Strickler who built a twin turbo 740 wagon...look at the photos of his car called the "volvette" . Hope this helps
I have a 1995 volvo 940 with an LS-1. I got the adapters from JTR and they are just aluminum spacers that adapt the old style GM mount to the volvo crossmember. You have to get ls-1 adapters off of ebay to make the old style mount work with LS-1. I have the original Dana 35 in my car. My car dynoed at 340 to the rear wheels and the rear end is still hanging in there. There are no tubular crossmembers available, so you will have to fab one and if you can do that you will not need the JTR kit. Oil pan clearance is tight on these cars, I had to use a hummer pan to make it work and make a skid plate because the pan hangs down below the crossmember. I don't know of a difference between auto and manual motors, but the computer is. As far as wiring, I used a painless harness, but there are guys out there that will convert a standard f-body harness to a stand-alone one. There is a guy named Dug Strickler who built a twin turbo 740 wagon...look at the photos of his car called the "volvette" . Hope this helps
