ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

I know with the factory bolt that a 90 after final torque is needed. Is this also the case with the ARP bolt? Thanks

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

Nope, ARP are torque to specification, depending on bolt lubricant (oil or assemby lube).

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cs-needed.html

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

sweet thanks I'm just going through torquing them 5 time right now and was wondering. Thanks

Damian

iTrader: (89)

NO!!!!

I've seen a lot of people make this mistake and pull the threads right out of the block. One of the beauties of the ARP bolts is that they do not use the angle-Tq'ing procedures like stock bolts.

I go in a 35-55-85ft lb cycle, following the GM sequence. I also let the motor sit for about an hr after the TQ'ing is finished, and hit the bolts one more time @ 85 ft lbs. Some find this unecessary, but I've had bolts budge another 1/8 turn for final TQ according to my calibrated Matco wrench.

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

Do you guys use the 5 time method for arp bolts. I'm almost done with it but damn it seems odd that I have to torque a bolt five times to get it right.

batboy

iTrader: (6)

If you use the official ARP assembly lube, torque all 15mm bolts to 30 ft/ibs in the correct torque sequence. Do a second pass at 50 ft/lbs and a third pass at 75 ft/lbs. Install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22 ft/lbs.

If you use engine oil to lube the bolts, I've heard of people using 35/65/85 lb/ft.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

this is what my instructions said to do.

To the OP, I can't believe you still have threads in your block.

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

I did not turn the 90 after final torque. I was in the process of going through the torque sequence 5 times as the ARP web site said and I posted the question during. It is all together and ready to put back in the car. Thanks for the help.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Absolutely! If you're really doing it, you'll feel the bolt and washer "bedding in" and getting smoother each time. This removes any microscopic burrs and makes the final torque value much more accurate...

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

^^^ Yeah I did it thanks again for all the help. I will never forget the torque sequence for a ls1 head in my life!!!!

sparkwirez06

iTrader: (18)

http://video.arp-bolts.com/catalog/ARPCatalog.pdf
arp website page 24, 11mm torque to 72/82/92 with molly lube!!!

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Those are actually 3 different torque values depending on the tensile strength of your particular fastener:

• 170,000# fastener = 72 ft-lbs
• 190,000# fastener = 82 ft-lbs
• 220,000# fastener = 92 ft-lbs

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

I know a few people that are running 85/90 lbs on the regule arp bolts

sparkwirez06

iTrader: (18)

OK, on pg. 20 the 8740 chrome moly(head stud material), is at yeild strength of 180,000psi, tensile strength 220,000psi. puts you at the top torque table. I will call ARP.

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

I ended up going 80ftlbs. So far so good.

sparkwirez06

iTrader: (18)

I called ARP told not to use the web chart, final torque on 11mm stud is 80ft.lb.and the 8mm is 25ft.lb. Also FYI, if you order replacement nuts, the 11 mm are 7/16ths-20 nuts, and the 8mm are 5/16-24 nuts.

samckitt

iTrader: (5)

What happens if you F up & go too much & mess up the threads in an aluminum block? Are the threads cut in the block or are they helicoiled?

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Cut into block. Failed threads can be repaired with a heli-coil per the service manual or an insert which is a better choice.

Steve Gunn

Sprayed1998

iTrader: (10)

I just did 80/27# on my iron block with no issues.