DBW cruise control lever
#1
DBW cruise control lever
I got a Dakota Digital signal indicator level with cruise control on it to use on my 05 DBW LM7. It was even a single screw mount like on old GM cars (going in a 72 442). Link below.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...prod/prd50.htm
I just spent an hour figuring out that this lever has a normally closed "set" while all the schematics from GM show it normally open...Doh!
Anyone know of a simple GM lever, without wiper controls, like the one in the link?
Gary
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...prod/prd50.htm
I just spent an hour figuring out that this lever has a normally closed "set" while all the schematics from GM show it normally open...Doh!
Anyone know of a simple GM lever, without wiper controls, like the one in the link?
Gary
#2
OK, I slept on it...
Turns out "set" also closes the accel/resume circuit. So if I wire the accel/resume wire to the set terminal on the ecu, the set will work normally but the accel/resume will work the same as set.
I can live with that.
Besides, I could not find a cruise only switch anywhere with the single screw mount base.
Turns out "set" also closes the accel/resume circuit. So if I wire the accel/resume wire to the set terminal on the ecu, the set will work normally but the accel/resume will work the same as set.
I can live with that.
Besides, I could not find a cruise only switch anywhere with the single screw mount base.
#4
TECH Veteran
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To use the Dakota Digital lever you have to use relays to switch the normally on to normally off. I'll post a link on how to do it. If you're looking for a factory application, the only one I've found that screws on with a single screw like your Olds, is the 1981 Chevy van with cruise/w resume, it's not the older set only switch. The problem is that 1- they're hard to find, and 2- they're three wire so you have to convert them to 4 wire, but it's not all that hard to do. I posted a write up on how to do it at the end of the link. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=395093
#5
OK, be honest....how many switches did you destroy before you figure out how to take them apart? lol
I'm actually ok with just a fucntional on/off, and set. I rarely use the resume/accel. So I think I'm going to just wire it with the accel/resume wire going to the set, and the set wire disconnected.
I considered the relay too, but thinking it's not worth the effort considering how little I use accel.
I'm actually ok with just a fucntional on/off, and set. I rarely use the resume/accel. So I think I'm going to just wire it with the accel/resume wire going to the set, and the set wire disconnected.
I considered the relay too, but thinking it's not worth the effort considering how little I use accel.
To use the Dakota Digital lever you have to use relays to switch the normally on to normally off. I'll post a link on how to do it. If you're looking for a factory application, the only one I've found that screws on with a single screw like your Olds, is the 1981 Chevy van with cruise/w resume, it's not the older set only switch. The problem is that 1- they're hard to find, and 2- they're three wire so you have to convert them to 4 wire, but it's not all that hard to do. I posted a write up on how to do it at the end of the link. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=395093
#6
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
I destroyed one lever trying to get to the switch inside, that's all! You will have to try the way you say you are going to wire it and let us know how it works out. I'm not an expert, but I think I read somewhere that all the switches have to be hooked up for it to work at all, but I'm not 100% positive on it.
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#8
sawzall wielding director
iTrader: (4)
You need to put +12v to the cruise on signal wire (gray IIRC)
You need to use the set/coast switch wire. (Dark blue IIRC). Putting voltage to that wire will lock in the speed you are at, if you keep voltage on it the vehicle will coast down to whatever speed you release the voltage from it.
The resume/accel button/wire will only work after theres +12v on the cruise signal wire AND there is a +12v pulse to the set/coast wire.
#11
Cruise control swithc.
I have a temporary early 90,s switch that works good but will not mount to my 67 Column, A friend used a 2006 GTO switch and removed the wiper part and remolded it with Epoxy on his 65 Imapala. I called Rostra.com who was recommended from IDIDIT and they say they only make a dash mounted double switch that all sitches are normaly open for this setup. Part # 250.3592 One switch rocks up for --on, down for off , the other switch is for Resume/accel up and down is for set /coast. When I take my car out of winter storage I,ll decide which one to purchase.
#12
Sorry, the DD stalk mount wont work. There's a wiring diagram on their site that explains the switch.
They make the dash mounted box that normally open.
They make the dash mounted box that normally open.
OK...I have my DD handle now and am looking at how to wire this up. I know you guys have said that its a normally closed. I called John at Speartech and he said that the GM computer needs 12V input to set the functions. So I checked continuity on the switch...here is what I found:
Off: No continuity
On: Continuity on Red (+ input), Brown (Not sure what this goes to...DD uses it for "positive brake" on their cruise setup) and finally Green (Set/Coast)
Accel: Continuity on all four wires
Set/Coast: Continuity on Red (+ input), Brown (Not sure what this goes to...DD uses it for "positive brake" on their cruise setup) and finally Yellow (Resume/Accel)
It seems to me that this switch would work as is but I still do not know what the brake switch wire goes to. I believe it is to go to the switch and provides the power in the normally closed part of brake switch which tells the computer to continue "cruising" But then when the brakes are applied, it brakes the signal telling the computer to cancel the cruise. So, the part I am not seeing is when you let off the brakes...what keeps the computer from "cruising" at your then current speed since there is power on the "set/Accel terminal? Does that make sense?
I hope someone can clarify this for me.
Off: No continuity
On: Continuity on Red (+ input), Brown (Not sure what this goes to...DD uses it for "positive brake" on their cruise setup) and finally Green (Set/Coast)
Accel: Continuity on all four wires
Set/Coast: Continuity on Red (+ input), Brown (Not sure what this goes to...DD uses it for "positive brake" on their cruise setup) and finally Yellow (Resume/Accel)
It seems to me that this switch would work as is but I still do not know what the brake switch wire goes to. I believe it is to go to the switch and provides the power in the normally closed part of brake switch which tells the computer to continue "cruising" But then when the brakes are applied, it brakes the signal telling the computer to cancel the cruise. So, the part I am not seeing is when you let off the brakes...what keeps the computer from "cruising" at your then current speed since there is power on the "set/Accel terminal? Does that make sense?
I hope someone can clarify this for me.
#13
I have not finished my install, but as I understand it, your first paragraph is correct. I think the issue in the other thread the poster in the truck thread tries to address is the momentary closing of the accel when set is pushed. I'm not sure how that affects the GM setup.
My plan is to use that funtion as set and leave off the accel fuction.
My plan is to use that funtion as set and leave off the accel fuction.
I've been looking at that schematic till my eyes hurt. Is the GM computer only requiring momentary 12V to "Set", "Resume", "Accel" and "Coast"? So, once it gets that momentary 12V...it cruises until the 12V from brakes are applied or some function supplies 12V again?
If that's true...I don't see how the wiring schematic (from other post RE; DBW cruise) will work. For example: he has the green wire (which is hot when switch is on) powering the one relay that is NO. This means that IF yellow was hot...it would send the 12V to computer. But since the the yellow isn't hot, nothing happens on that function. OK...that I understand. Now...when you push the set button to send the 12V on the yellow wire...you lose the power on the green thereby opening the relay and power on the yellow wire can no longer reach the computer to give the 12V signal. It seems if the brown replaced the green for that relay, it would work. Can someone point out where I am wrong?
If that's true...I don't see how the wiring schematic (from other post RE; DBW cruise) will work. For example: he has the green wire (which is hot when switch is on) powering the one relay that is NO. This means that IF yellow was hot...it would send the 12V to computer. But since the the yellow isn't hot, nothing happens on that function. OK...that I understand. Now...when you push the set button to send the 12V on the yellow wire...you lose the power on the green thereby opening the relay and power on the yellow wire can no longer reach the computer to give the 12V signal. It seems if the brown replaced the green for that relay, it would work. Can someone point out where I am wrong?
#14
TECH Veteran
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To anybody who may be interested, I have 3 of the GM cruise switch levers. They will already be converted to the 4 wire switch like I showed here. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=395093 Some of the lettering is worn on 2 of them, not sure what you could do about it, but they will work just like factory, no relays, just hook up the 4 wires and you're good to go. I'm asking $32 each shipped. PM me for more info.
Last edited by ls1nova71; 02-09-2011 at 10:26 AM.
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CAM78 (03-31-2020)
#16
Cruise switch
Do you still have any of the switches available. if so . is it converted over and how did you change them over to open switches or were they already. Thanks .Paul 67 Nova Ls2
#17
I know its been a while, but I picked up a blinker stalk from a 79 El Camino and a 79 Cadillac. They are 3 wire, and you just need to put a toggle switch in to power the setup. HOWEVER I am unable to get my cruise working for other reasons...
#18
To anybody who may be interested, I have 3 of the GM cruise switch levers. They will already be converted to the 4 wire switch like I showed here. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=395093 Some of the lettering is worn on 2 of them, not sure what you could do about it, but they will work just like factory, no relays, just hook up the 4 wires and you're good to go. I'm asking $32 each shipped. PM me for more info.
#19
I know this post has been brought to life many times. I found that the 76-79 Cadillac Seville uses the 3 wire stalk that screws into the column like our chevelles. Thats the one I used.