LS1 with 245000 miles
01-09-2011, 12:34 PM
#1
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LS1 with 245000 miles It is almost time to make a decision. I am definitely pulling my LS1 with over 245000 miles (Black on Red convertible Trans Am). I am trying to decide between: (1) a conservative rebuild (hone block, new crank, new rods and pistons, moderate cam, high flow heads, (2) a more aggressive rebuild (bore to 383, rotating assembly with new rods and pistons, cam and heads), (3) GM crate engine (LS1, LS2, LS3, LSX), (4) assembled block (TSP, Livernois, etc), (5) used LS engine (Cleveland Pick A Part). I am favoring the aggressive rebuild with a stroker kit. Any suggestions? I hate to waste a nice LS1 block by swapping it out. But, the prices for assembled engines are tempting. Any suggestions on the rotating assemblies? Does anyone know if the livernois LS2 rotating assembly can be used on a LS1 bored to 383? Either way, I think it is time to be proactive on the engine, rebuild the tranny, and rear diff. The engine work and swap would be done by a shop in Delray Beach Florida. Thanks in advance.
01-09-2011, 12:47 PM
#2
an LS2 rotating assembly would come with a 58x tooth reluctor wheel im pretty sure and you will need a 24x tooth reluctor wheel. also most ls2 stroker rotating assemblys will require a 4 inch plus bore size which u can not do with a LS1 block unless you have it sleeved. so its either u go with a 347, or 383 LS1 stroker forged assembly. Or buy a complete LS6 crate motor from SDPC if they still have them for around $3300 give or take. And you will be able to just slap the whole motor in the way it comes, plug your harness into that motor and go. It just pepend what u want.
01-09-2011, 01:28 PM
#3
You don't need to buy a new crank for option #1; just have it micropolished, or turned if neccessary. You can't actually "bore" the block for option 2; you get 383 c.i. by having the block honed (like you would with option 1) and dropping a 4.00" crank in there. So the only difference between 1 and two would be buying a new, longer crank and therefore having more displacement.
01-09-2011, 01:51 PM
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Personally if this was me i'd go for option 1. For a multitude of reasons, the top being 1. you know what the motor has been through, and you have the pride in knowing its the original block, even if the rotating assy isnt original. I've come into this delima with my V6, has 111,xxx on it, and its not meeting what I should be getting in a few areas, so I come to this dilema as well. But one thing for sure, if you for some reason decide to get rid of you LS1 I would be glad to buy it if the price is right.
01-10-2011, 06:58 AM
#5
I say spray the ******* off your current engine til it goes boom and then deal with mess later.
But in all reality if and when my motor goes, I will probably be shoving a junkyard lq4 in it.
But in all reality if and when my motor goes, I will probably be shoving a junkyard lq4 in it.
01-10-2011, 08:34 AM
#6
It is almost time to make a decision. I am definitely pulling my LS1 with over 245000 miles (Black on Red convertible Trans Am). I am trying to decide between:
(1) a conservative rebuild (hone block, new crank, new rods and pistons, moderate cam, high flow heads- The only issue I see is that with aftermarket type heads is the cost associated with SMALL bore heads as 4.000" or better heads (see LS2) offer a wider variety and easier to sell so its hard to justify the cost. The ONLY head I know of that is LS2 or better based for small bore LS1 blocks is MAST. You should not need a new crank, unless your looking to go to a longer stroke, having parts checked is a plus. IMO as long as the block si good, get a cast or forged 383 rotating assembly. IF you were leaving stock, it can be dont but IMO might as well at best put a semi aggressive cam, maybe LS1/LS6 ported castings, make it low buck as possible.
(2) a more aggressive rebuild (bore to 383, rotating assembly with new rods and pistons, cam and heads), This was part of my #1 discussion as at best you do not want to sleeve the block for anything bigger then a clean up hone. IF you do, then just shoot to a LS2 or better block
(3) GM crate engine (LS1, LS2, LS3, LSX), IMO I would avoid unless your really unsure about building engines or trusting others to do it for you. If you buy a crate, you can do a LS3 conversion and probably be worth it. You would have to research on maybe swapping the cam out as I am not to up with the new cam design working on earlier 4th GEN ODBII PCM.
(4) assembled block (TSP, Livernois, etc), Another reasonable choice as most of these companies are good. I WOULD research on who actually builds the motor as some are just part slingers and some actually do the work and if there is a warrentee issue (see parts failure) you do not want to be in the middle of the dealer and the builder and getting f*cked.
(5) used LS engine (Cleveland Pick A Part). IMO these engines are good for a new foundation for a rebuild. So you can source a 6.0L Iron truck motor and use that to make a 402 cid motor, or even source a 6.0L Aluminum (that be a score!!)
I am favoring the aggressive rebuild with a stroker kit. Any suggestions? I hate to waste a nice LS1 block by swapping it out. But, the prices for assembled engines are tempting. Any suggestions on the rotating assemblies? Does anyone know if the livernois LS2 rotating assembly can be used on a LS1 bored to 383? Either way, I think it is time to be proactive on the engine, rebuild the tranny, and rear diff. The engine work and swap would be done by a shop in Delray Beach Florida. Thanks in advance.
If you have a lot of questions, start PMing Sponsors
(1) a conservative rebuild (hone block, new crank, new rods and pistons, moderate cam, high flow heads- The only issue I see is that with aftermarket type heads is the cost associated with SMALL bore heads as 4.000" or better heads (see LS2) offer a wider variety and easier to sell so its hard to justify the cost. The ONLY head I know of that is LS2 or better based for small bore LS1 blocks is MAST. You should not need a new crank, unless your looking to go to a longer stroke, having parts checked is a plus. IMO as long as the block si good, get a cast or forged 383 rotating assembly. IF you were leaving stock, it can be dont but IMO might as well at best put a semi aggressive cam, maybe LS1/LS6 ported castings, make it low buck as possible.
(2) a more aggressive rebuild (bore to 383, rotating assembly with new rods and pistons, cam and heads), This was part of my #1 discussion as at best you do not want to sleeve the block for anything bigger then a clean up hone. IF you do, then just shoot to a LS2 or better block
(3) GM crate engine (LS1, LS2, LS3, LSX), IMO I would avoid unless your really unsure about building engines or trusting others to do it for you. If you buy a crate, you can do a LS3 conversion and probably be worth it. You would have to research on maybe swapping the cam out as I am not to up with the new cam design working on earlier 4th GEN ODBII PCM.
(4) assembled block (TSP, Livernois, etc), Another reasonable choice as most of these companies are good. I WOULD research on who actually builds the motor as some are just part slingers and some actually do the work and if there is a warrentee issue (see parts failure) you do not want to be in the middle of the dealer and the builder and getting f*cked.
(5) used LS engine (Cleveland Pick A Part). IMO these engines are good for a new foundation for a rebuild. So you can source a 6.0L Iron truck motor and use that to make a 402 cid motor, or even source a 6.0L Aluminum (that be a score!!)
I am favoring the aggressive rebuild with a stroker kit. Any suggestions? I hate to waste a nice LS1 block by swapping it out. But, the prices for assembled engines are tempting. Any suggestions on the rotating assemblies? Does anyone know if the livernois LS2 rotating assembly can be used on a LS1 bored to 383? Either way, I think it is time to be proactive on the engine, rebuild the tranny, and rear diff. The engine work and swap would be done by a shop in Delray Beach Florida. Thanks in advance.
If you have a lot of questions, start PMing Sponsors
