ad53030

First I'd like to say you guys are building and driving some amazing cars. I am jealous. Tsnow678, the car is awesome, what a transformation. Starting to put together the plan for my 69 Camaro. Unfortunately mine is much more than just a drive-train swap. 235 cu in 6 cylinder originally, currently 2-bolt 350, Borg Warner T-10 4 speed and 3.55 posi 12-bolt. Oh and I know it's ugly, it's been sitting and waiting for the last five years. I am thinking an LQ4 short-block w/ L92 heads. What is the weight difference between an aluminum headed LQ4 & the LS2? Obviously the cost difference is crazy but I really want to lighten the car up as much as I can. Also, I already have a 4th gen F-body T56. Will the stock T56 bolt up to the LQ4 without issues? Probably will use an LS7 clutch/flywheel kit. Want to do this as cheap as possible and upgrade later.
I finished (less paint) an 07 5.3/4L60 swap into an 84 C10 planned to be my daily driver. If anyone remembers helping me and answering questions, thanks to all. Due to economy, no job = no money = too bad = had to sell truck. No daily driver but I need to drive my Camaro again - life is too short. Won't be able to start buying parts for a few months at least but just want to start figuring out a plan of attack.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Depending on who you talk to or where you read, the weight difference between any complete Gen III / IV iron block engine vs. it's aluminum block Gen III / IV brother is somewhere between 65 and 85 lbs. I bought my last engine (iron 5.3) complete with accessory belts still on it, uncut harness and PCM for about 1/5th the asking price for the aluminum 5.7 on the crate next to it my choice was clear. If weight is ultra critical (Miata, Triumph, MG, auto x type racing, etc.) I would spend the extra green. Otherwise I have plenty of places 65 lbs can be lost from the front of the car for way less money. One of the oldest, simplest and least expensive tricks: moving the battery to the trunk.

The T-56 needs to be from a Gen III car, the LT1 variants are different in the input shaft area. Your engine needs to also be one of the "newer" 6.0's with the short crank flange like the other Gen III / IV engines have.

If you are looking for ideas on the cheap check out my build in my sig and check out the $1,500 budget swap guide sticky at the top of this forum.

Happy hunting.

ad53030

Also, how hard is adapting the clutch pedal / slave actuator rod? I see there are multiple mounting options for the reservoir but what about the actual pedal assembly?