Reluctor Wheel Run-Out?
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Reluctor Wheel Run-Out?
I purchased a crank with a 24X reluctor from one of our good sponsors. Unfortunately, the crank that arrived had a 58X wheel even though the box was marked 24X. The seller did all the good things like paying for the return shipping and getting their people to swap on a 58X reluctor.
I got the crank back today and laid it into the block. With all the caps in place, I spun it to find out the reluctor wheel is scraping the block. After checking out the situation more closely I discovered the outer part of the wheel has a slight wobble to it.
I called the seller to ask if I could gently 'wack' it to get some clearance. I was told they would prefer to send me a new crank with the proper reluctor installed by Callies even though they would now be eating shipping 3 times. Mind you it is already balanced to my bob weight and has been checked for clearances.
My question is this........... Is run-out normal and what is a good clearance between the reluctor and the block? Is is okay to hand tap it back to gain clearance or will that possibly throw off the sensor?
I got the crank back today and laid it into the block. With all the caps in place, I spun it to find out the reluctor wheel is scraping the block. After checking out the situation more closely I discovered the outer part of the wheel has a slight wobble to it.
I called the seller to ask if I could gently 'wack' it to get some clearance. I was told they would prefer to send me a new crank with the proper reluctor installed by Callies even though they would now be eating shipping 3 times. Mind you it is already balanced to my bob weight and has been checked for clearances.
My question is this........... Is run-out normal and what is a good clearance between the reluctor and the block? Is is okay to hand tap it back to gain clearance or will that possibly throw off the sensor?
#4
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John, after thinking about it more last night after work, I really would prefer get the crank back to make it right. I know it's more of a delay for your build, but I feel that would be the best option to make it right at this point! Give me a call when you get a few free moments, and we'll work out the details!
Sorry again for the frustration on this!
Sorry again for the frustration on this!
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Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
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Oh Matt, you blew your cover! LOL
Let me say this........... Matt and Texas Speed are tops on my list. Problems will and do happen from time to time. The measure of how good a company is how they solve problems and TS is going above and beyond for me on this one.
Thank you Matt!
Let me say this........... Matt and Texas Speed are tops on my list. Problems will and do happen from time to time. The measure of how good a company is how they solve problems and TS is going above and beyond for me on this one.
Thank you Matt!
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I am building a 402 for my 4WD '02 Tahoe. To summarize the build:
6.0L iron block, stock L92 heads (w/PAC springs) and intake, 8.1L marine injectors, Compstar 9.125 rods, 3140 Callies 4" stroker, Wiseco -8cc pistons (net 10.4:1 ratio), Crower cam (228/238 .571”/.585” 113LSA +4), F.A.S.T. 92mm air door, stock rockers, LS9 valve covers and Clear Image 4-2-1 Tri-Y headers.
I have a built 4L80E, NP263HD and 14B SF going behind it.
Last edited by Duntov1967; 01-27-2011 at 05:48 PM.