A little info about ARP wheels studs...
03-04-2011, 09:51 AM
#1
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A little info about ARP wheels studs... This is more of a rant/take-it-as-you-will kind of post. Anyways I'm right in the middle of changing out my brake pads and painting my calipers. Just yesterday I changed my rear wheel studs out to the ARP 7708 (2.5") to allow for a spacer and my new DD C5 machined face wheels
I used the 'ol BFH method to beat out my old studs. No problem there. Installing the ARPs was a trip. My car evidently did not come equipped with traction control, because that little sensor on the backing plate that everyone mentions was nowhere to be found (it can be removed to create a hole to feed the stud through if it's there). So great. I've got these long *** studs, and no way to fit them in the hub.
After taking a break and coming on Tech, I see that not all of our cars carry this sensor on the backing plate, mine being one of them. I was NOT about to pull the axles because I just replaced the rear end fluid and diff cover gasket just a year ago. So that plan fell on its ***. My only option was to drill a hole in the backing plate where that "dimpled" area is. I drilled the hole to 3/8" (biggest bit i had) and then opened the hole the rest of the way up with a die grinder w/ a rotary file bit. Worked great.
I went about installing the studs the same way a lot of folks do---with a stack of washers, old lug nut, and an impact. And plenty of antiseize. This part was easy, btw. However, I noticed some of the threads on the studs looked like they were galled up once they were in. Sure enough, about 4 out of the 10 were galled. I couldnt even put a lug on by hand. ****! How could these ARP wama-dine 6000 studs fail me? Everyone praises these damn things as if God forged them himself. As mentioned I used a lot of antiseize, so i dont see how these things got fucked up. I didnt have a dye nut handy, so I just ran one of my lugs up and down the threads to clean them up a lil. It kinda worked, the nuts go on easy w/ a ratchet now. Sorry for the long post, maybe this can help somebody in the future! And ARP aint ****!
I used the 'ol BFH method to beat out my old studs. No problem there. Installing the ARPs was a trip. My car evidently did not come equipped with traction control, because that little sensor on the backing plate that everyone mentions was nowhere to be found (it can be removed to create a hole to feed the stud through if it's there). So great. I've got these long *** studs, and no way to fit them in the hub.After taking a break and coming on Tech, I see that not all of our cars carry this sensor on the backing plate, mine being one of them. I was NOT about to pull the axles because I just replaced the rear end fluid and diff cover gasket just a year ago. So that plan fell on its ***. My only option was to drill a hole in the backing plate where that "dimpled" area is. I drilled the hole to 3/8" (biggest bit i had) and then opened the hole the rest of the way up with a die grinder w/ a rotary file bit. Worked great.
I went about installing the studs the same way a lot of folks do---with a stack of washers, old lug nut, and an impact. And plenty of antiseize. This part was easy, btw. However, I noticed some of the threads on the studs looked like they were galled up once they were in. Sure enough, about 4 out of the 10 were galled. I couldnt even put a lug on by hand. ****! How could these ARP wama-dine 6000 studs fail me? Everyone praises these damn things as if God forged them himself. As mentioned I used a lot of antiseize, so i dont see how these things got fucked up. I didnt have a dye nut handy, so I just ran one of my lugs up and down the threads to clean them up a lil. It kinda worked, the nuts go on easy w/ a ratchet now. Sorry for the long post, maybe this can help somebody in the future! And ARP aint ****!
03-05-2011, 07:30 PM
#2
anti seize was likely part of the problem, it allows it to be stretched beyond its yeild point and then it can not rebound. using an impact wasnt the best idea neither. dry with a wrachet woulda been your best bet. sorry dude it sounds like installation error not a part failure.