Whats the point of adjustable control arms?
02-19-2004, 04:09 AM
#1
Whats the point of adjustable control arms? I have LGM poly/rod LCA's and PHR. Why are the LCA's even adjustable? Everyone told me to adjust them to the factory length so what's the point?
My car is also VERY loud now since I installed them; to the point that I am actually ready to put the stockers back on. I don't drag race anyway and I think I will get traction just fine with my nitto drags (I did the LCA's before I bought the Nitto's). It just doesn't seem worth it. Every bump I hit makes me cringe. I even cringe when I SEE an uneven road surface before I get to it.
Finally, do the LCA's and PHR function the same if not tightened with the suspension loaded? I jacked my car up from the pumpkin of the differential and installed them that way and then torqued them. That is the same thing as having the suspension loaded right? So what difference does it make when you torque them down with the suspension loaded or unloaded? I didn't use a torque wrench either. I just tightened them until I couldn't go any further. Should I untighten them and then torque them down again with a torque wrench just to be safe? Someone mentioned 90lb's.
I also forgot the benefit of having the rod ends... I think it was because they don't deflect/bind up under hard cornering??? Is that right? I did notice a little better cornering because now I notice my body roll. Thanks.
My car is also VERY loud now since I installed them; to the point that I am actually ready to put the stockers back on. I don't drag race anyway and I think I will get traction just fine with my nitto drags (I did the LCA's before I bought the Nitto's). It just doesn't seem worth it. Every bump I hit makes me cringe. I even cringe when I SEE an uneven road surface before I get to it.
Finally, do the LCA's and PHR function the same if not tightened with the suspension loaded? I jacked my car up from the pumpkin of the differential and installed them that way and then torqued them. That is the same thing as having the suspension loaded right? So what difference does it make when you torque them down with the suspension loaded or unloaded? I didn't use a torque wrench either. I just tightened them until I couldn't go any further. Should I untighten them and then torque them down again with a torque wrench just to be safe? Someone mentioned 90lb's.
I also forgot the benefit of having the rod ends... I think it was because they don't deflect/bind up under hard cornering??? Is that right? I did notice a little better cornering because now I notice my body roll. Thanks.
02-19-2004, 06:03 AM
#2
if you want to get rid of your adj. lca's pm me, I'm lookin for a set,
the adjustable torke arm and lca's kinda go hand and hand, if you car is dropped they'll come in handy, you need to jack up the rear end and then put jack stands on both sides otherwise your rear end may have been crooked, you need to get a degree to line up the angle of the rear end, if you line everything up properly w/ the adjustable components you'll get outstanding traction and handleing, although it is not an easy task, I dont think yours is set up right from what your explaining, I cant remember but I think the degree is 3.2?? anybody else know?................. just noticed in your sig maybe I'm mental but I dont see any drop springs, you shouldnt have the relo brackets if its not droped, are they bolt in or weld in?, try the stock lca's and see what happens, if its still there its iether the phr or the relo's
edit: read this and lemme know if you dont understand, this pretty much explains it http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm guys also go by how much HP the car is makin, the more HP the more angle they'll give
the adjustable torke arm and lca's kinda go hand and hand, if you car is dropped they'll come in handy, you need to jack up the rear end and then put jack stands on both sides otherwise your rear end may have been crooked, you need to get a degree to line up the angle of the rear end, if you line everything up properly w/ the adjustable components you'll get outstanding traction and handleing, although it is not an easy task, I dont think yours is set up right from what your explaining, I cant remember but I think the degree is 3.2?? anybody else know?................. just noticed in your sig maybe I'm mental but I dont see any drop springs, you shouldnt have the relo brackets if its not droped, are they bolt in or weld in?, try the stock lca's and see what happens, if its still there its iether the phr or the relo's
edit: read this and lemme know if you dont understand, this pretty much explains it http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm guys also go by how much HP the car is makin, the more HP the more angle they'll give
Last edited by Assassin; 02-19-2004 at 06:42 AM.
02-19-2004, 08:49 AM
#4
"Adjustable" is a misnomer.
Rod ends only come threaded. That's the only way to attach the end to the shaft. There are no welded rod ends. The heat from welding would destroy the surface of the bearing.
You put the poly surface on the body side and the rod end on the diff end, right? JAm nuts tight? with loctite?
Same with the PHB ... you did use the shouldered stock bolts and tighten the jam nuts?
To isolate which part is causing the noise, re-install the stock PHB and see if the noise goes away. My PHB is noisy, but it's not anything that makes me cringe or wanting the stock parts back.
Rod ends only come threaded. That's the only way to attach the end to the shaft. There are no welded rod ends. The heat from welding would destroy the surface of the bearing.
You put the poly surface on the body side and the rod end on the diff end, right? JAm nuts tight? with loctite?
Same with the PHB ... you did use the shouldered stock bolts and tighten the jam nuts?
To isolate which part is causing the noise, re-install the stock PHB and see if the noise goes away. My PHB is noisy, but it's not anything that makes me cringe or wanting the stock parts back.
