Calling all A body swap guys
04-22-2011, 01:24 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Calling all A body swap guys I am looking to put a LS7 into a 70 chevelle. I have looked at the sticky A body section only to find that most of them used Edelbrock kits to do the swap of an LS motor. Only thing is I called up Edelbrock and they say all of those swap part numbers are discontinued. I browsed through summits website and talked to a tech person and cam up with two motor mounts that could be used. Trans-Dapt TRD-4595 and trd4592 .which he said the 4592 would move the engine back 1 inch. Is this what I want to move the engine back 1 inch. I have read that you want the engine back a little but I am not sure why.
Also the Hooker Headers HOK-2289-1HKR have a 3 inch collector and when paired with the recommended walker WLK-89023 I would have to fab something up.
Has anyone had any luck using either of these parts? Or what parts have you used? I am looking to order this stuff ASAP so any help would be much appreciated.
Also the Hooker Headers HOK-2289-1HKR have a 3 inch collector and when paired with the recommended walker WLK-89023 I would have to fab something up.
Has anyone had any luck using either of these parts? Or what parts have you used? I am looking to order this stuff ASAP so any help would be much appreciated.
04-22-2011, 02:55 PM
#2
The 1" setback plates will set the back of the engine at the same location as the factory engine given all other variables stay the same. This is most often the best case for those planning on using the origanal trans.
My setup in my 71 Chevelle is as follows:
Lq4 T56
1" setback plates 3/8" thick cheapos off ebay
I then had to move the engine even farther back to clear the f-body alt. I did this by unbolting the framestands and moving them where I wanted and drilled new holes for them.
I used f-body pacesetter off-road headers (fit like a glove for my setup)
Hope some of this helps.
My setup in my 71 Chevelle is as follows:
Lq4 T56
1" setback plates 3/8" thick cheapos off ebay
I then had to move the engine even farther back to clear the f-body alt. I did this by unbolting the framestands and moving them where I wanted and drilled new holes for them.
I used f-body pacesetter off-road headers (fit like a glove for my setup)
Hope some of this helps.
04-22-2011, 03:33 PM
#3
Staging Lane
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Yes, any info help. I appreciate your reply. I guess what I really should have included was that I want to have as little modification as possible. I have a welder and the tools but I just want a easy as possible install. Has anyone had good luck with a particular setup that might fit this description?
02-21-2012, 12:01 PM
#5
Staging Lane
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The 1" setback plates will set the back of the engine at the same location as the factory engine given all other variables stay the same. This is most often the best case for those planning on using the origanal trans.
My setup in my 71 Chevelle is as follows:
Lq4 T56
1" setback plates 3/8" thick cheapos off ebay
I then had to move the engine even farther back to clear the f-body alt. I did this by unbolting the framestands and moving them where I wanted and drilled new holes for them.
I used f-body pacesetter off-road headers (fit like a glove for my setup)
Hope some of this helps.
My setup in my 71 Chevelle is as follows:
Lq4 T56
1" setback plates 3/8" thick cheapos off ebay
I then had to move the engine even farther back to clear the f-body alt. I did this by unbolting the framestands and moving them where I wanted and drilled new holes for them.
I used f-body pacesetter off-road headers (fit like a glove for my setup)
Hope some of this helps.
http://marylandspeed.com/pacesetter-...jht-p-393.html
02-21-2012, 01:10 PM
#6
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I used some plates made by Holley that move the engine forward 1/2 inch or so. With the standard height plates you have the benefit of being able to use any of the 2,3,4 speed auto trans without having to remake your trans tunnel.
With BRP set up the down side is that since the motor sits higher to get the drive line angles right many people still have to raise the trans tunnel even with the auto trans. Additionally the oil pan will still hang below the transmember some, and the cost is on the high side. The upshot of BRP is that it set the engine high enough you do not have to worry as much about tierod ends hitting the oil pan and the set up seems to all work well together.
If I were doing my swap again I would get a set of the new Dirty Dingo slider mounts. Those set the engine up about 1/2 inch higher than the standard simple plates so you will avoid some of the steering linkage interference. Also, they give you some adjustability to move the set up around to avoid any clearance issues you run into with your accessories or trans and just to get the motor right where you want it.
With BRP set up the down side is that since the motor sits higher to get the drive line angles right many people still have to raise the trans tunnel even with the auto trans. Additionally the oil pan will still hang below the transmember some, and the cost is on the high side. The upshot of BRP is that it set the engine high enough you do not have to worry as much about tierod ends hitting the oil pan and the set up seems to all work well together.
If I were doing my swap again I would get a set of the new Dirty Dingo slider mounts. Those set the engine up about 1/2 inch higher than the standard simple plates so you will avoid some of the steering linkage interference. Also, they give you some adjustability to move the set up around to avoid any clearance issues you run into with your accessories or trans and just to get the motor right where you want it.
02-21-2012, 01:47 PM
#7
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For my 70 Elky conversion using ls1, F-bodies accessories, Pacesetter long tube, T56:
I am using trans dapt 1" setback (pn 4595) for the engine swap mount kit with Energy suspension engine mounts instead of the supplied mounts. The combo lifted the engine a little higher also. I will need to drill new holes for the mounts in the engine cross-member. I also had to cut my firewall for the t-56 to fit.
For headers, I have f-body pacesetter 'off-road' headers. They fit decent but one header points at an angle on drivers side and one tube on the passenger side may need some slight massaging to gain some more clearance from the frame.
The pic above shows it close to the steering linkage but the header was not in the final position as the collector was resting against the oil cooler adapter.
Not sure how much forward I could go with headers. The alternator clearance was an issue that prevented me from playing around.
Best price I found for headers.
http://speed-eng.com/store/pacesette...ce-p-3071.html
Side view
Driver side from front to top
Drivers side header exit
Tight fit with f-body alternator.
I am using trans dapt 1" setback (pn 4595) for the engine swap mount kit with Energy suspension engine mounts instead of the supplied mounts. The combo lifted the engine a little higher also. I will need to drill new holes for the mounts in the engine cross-member. I also had to cut my firewall for the t-56 to fit.
For headers, I have f-body pacesetter 'off-road' headers. They fit decent but one header points at an angle on drivers side and one tube on the passenger side may need some slight massaging to gain some more clearance from the frame.
The pic above shows it close to the steering linkage but the header was not in the final position as the collector was resting against the oil cooler adapter.
Not sure how much forward I could go with headers. The alternator clearance was an issue that prevented me from playing around.
Best price I found for headers.
http://speed-eng.com/store/pacesette...ce-p-3071.html
Side view
Driver side from front to top
Drivers side header exit
Tight fit with f-body alternator.
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02-21-2012, 04:14 PM
#10
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I only plan on only massaging the passenger header, number 2 tube.
Initial thoughts are to mount the header flange to my workbench, support the collector end and then use piece of 2x4 wedged into part of my workbench and push the tube further into the headers. Only need a little (about 1/2 to 1 inch) and it is a long length of tubing, so it should deflect easy enough.
Not going to change the drivers side...if I have fabbed this stuff, fabbing the exhaust to work will not be a big deal.
Pic showing tube #2 (cylinder #4?) close to the frame.
Initial thoughts are to mount the header flange to my workbench, support the collector end and then use piece of 2x4 wedged into part of my workbench and push the tube further into the headers. Only need a little (about 1/2 to 1 inch) and it is a long length of tubing, so it should deflect easy enough.
Not going to change the drivers side...if I have fabbed this stuff, fabbing the exhaust to work will not be a big deal.
Pic showing tube #2 (cylinder #4?) close to the frame.
02-21-2012, 04:30 PM
#11
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I ordered Doug's headers and adapter plates. Unfortunately I had to send headers back today because they came uncoated when I ordered and paid for ceramic coated. As soon as the new ones arrive I'll check fitment.
02-21-2012, 05:03 PM
#12
ModSquad
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I am building my own solid engine mounts, as well as a custom crossmember, because of frame mods. I am using the Holley pan, and headers. My tranny tunnel required messaging, but it worked well for me as I was replacing my floors at the same time. You will probably run into the same issue with your tunnel. Just about everybody here with an A body/ t-56 combo has had to message, or cut something besides the shifter hole.
02-22-2012, 05:42 AM
#13
TECH Fanatic
I used Dougs headers and mount kit with Energy Suspension mount pads. Fit like a glove. Only issue is the trans cross member, but many have encountered the same challenge regardless of the engine mounts.
I can supply pictures if you wish.
I can supply pictures if you wish.
02-22-2012, 05:44 PM
#15
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I haven't started my ls2/3 66 GTO yet, but I'm looking to start acquiring what I need. Trying to find a reasonably priced LS2/3 and looking for swap kit type stuff right now. I'm sure I'll be bugging you guys for info soon enough.
03-02-2012, 02:23 PM
#17
I will have a set of ceramic coated hookers up for sale real soon...going turbo and will only used for initial startup...never made it out of the garage with them on the car. I will give you a good deal.
I have a '69 442 so it is a similar deal to your car. PM me if you are interested.
I have a '69 442 so it is a similar deal to your car. PM me if you are interested.
03-04-2012, 08:28 AM
#20
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Thanks fatfree, I have been awol for a few days. The rest of the combination I used are:
3378 frame stands from carpartsdiscount.com
and 3-3117G Energy Suspension.
You an decide to use the shim plates or leave them out. The mount sits rigid against the engine plate so the doubler is redundant unless you need the height.
3378 frame stands from carpartsdiscount.com
and 3-3117G Energy Suspension.
You an decide to use the shim plates or leave them out. The mount sits rigid against the engine plate so the doubler is redundant unless you need the height.