I'm doing a a4 to m6 change over
05-09-2011, 04:31 PM
#1
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I'm doing a a4 to m6 change over I need to know two things that I have searched for with no luck. First which switch do I wire pin 32 to on brake pedal and clutch pedal to make cruise control . Also why would I need to wire in a diode on pin 44 reverse lock out? It show one on the wiring diagram but it looks like it is in the reverse lock out unit.
05-09-2011, 11:10 PM
#4
I just emailed you back but i figure id post it up for those searching in the future. I got this from someone on the forum, i dont remember who unfortunately, whoever it is, thankyou!
Once you reflash to a 6-sp PCM, you will have that pin #32 looking for the switch that mounts up at the clutch pedal ... the one that mounts like a brake pedal switch ....... NOT the starter switch at the base of the clutch pedal travel.
The most simplistic method would be to wire pin 32 to ground This would mimic the clutch switch being closed and the cruise will work (assuming the diagram that 8a8mfh supplied is correct for the switch that we're looking for).
Well I got it all working tonight. I didn't want cags so I didn't bother with that.
If you want cruise control to work you need to put a pin in C1 32 and run the wire to the proper M6 clutch anticipation switch, the wire is gray. The other wire on the switch is black/white and gets spliced onto the same color wire on the ALDL connector. This is how the M6 cars are wired from the factory.
To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.
It would be best if you got a few spare pins from a spare harness, but if you don't have access to one take out and use pins C1 17 and C1 18.
If you go to a junkyard and get some pins you can also get wire plug for the reverse solenoid, cags off a '94 to '97 S series truck ABS unit. It's the same plug.
C1 is the PCM connector with the translucent blue plastic piece that helps hold the pins in place.
C2 is Red. They both have the same numbers just one is red and one is blue.
C1 32 and C2 44 shouldn't have wires in them, if you find wires in yours make sure you're not looking at C2 32 and C1 44.
To get the plugs out remove the translucent piece and just bend the clip over very slightly and pull the wire out, put a little silicone over the hole.
To put a pin in I used a small nail to poke a hole in the rubber then stuck the pin in place and put the plastic piece back on.
I even used a torque wrench on the PCM connectors, it says on the gray covers to torque them 70 inch pounds +/- 14 inch pounds. Be sure you peel the rubber seals off the PCM and put them in the connector before re-installing them.
WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.
The Green wire goes to the PCM RED #44, the Pink is a Power wire, hot with Key on. I spliced it into the Transmission Power Circuit that powered the Auto.
If you are converting from a A4.. save the wire that goes to Pin #42 on that Connector, just pop it out and move it over to Pin #44.
How you pop it out is to take the Connector apart, carefully pop off the Red Plastic piece off of the front of it, and lift up on the plastic clip holding the wire in. As you lift on it, pull the wire out. Take a paper clip and push it through the rubber on #44, then carefully insert the wire you just pulled out into that spot.
On the other end of that wire, which should be near where the Auto Plug was, connect that to the Green wire on the Reverse Lockout Connector.
Once you reflash to a 6-sp PCM, you will have that pin #32 looking for the switch that mounts up at the clutch pedal ... the one that mounts like a brake pedal switch ....... NOT the starter switch at the base of the clutch pedal travel.
The most simplistic method would be to wire pin 32 to ground This would mimic the clutch switch being closed and the cruise will work (assuming the diagram that 8a8mfh supplied is correct for the switch that we're looking for).
Well I got it all working tonight. I didn't want cags so I didn't bother with that.
If you want cruise control to work you need to put a pin in C1 32 and run the wire to the proper M6 clutch anticipation switch, the wire is gray. The other wire on the switch is black/white and gets spliced onto the same color wire on the ALDL connector. This is how the M6 cars are wired from the factory.
To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.
It would be best if you got a few spare pins from a spare harness, but if you don't have access to one take out and use pins C1 17 and C1 18.
If you go to a junkyard and get some pins you can also get wire plug for the reverse solenoid, cags off a '94 to '97 S series truck ABS unit. It's the same plug.
C1 is the PCM connector with the translucent blue plastic piece that helps hold the pins in place.
C2 is Red. They both have the same numbers just one is red and one is blue.
C1 32 and C2 44 shouldn't have wires in them, if you find wires in yours make sure you're not looking at C2 32 and C1 44.
To get the plugs out remove the translucent piece and just bend the clip over very slightly and pull the wire out, put a little silicone over the hole.
To put a pin in I used a small nail to poke a hole in the rubber then stuck the pin in place and put the plastic piece back on.
I even used a torque wrench on the PCM connectors, it says on the gray covers to torque them 70 inch pounds +/- 14 inch pounds. Be sure you peel the rubber seals off the PCM and put them in the connector before re-installing them.
WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.
The Green wire goes to the PCM RED #44, the Pink is a Power wire, hot with Key on. I spliced it into the Transmission Power Circuit that powered the Auto.
If you are converting from a A4.. save the wire that goes to Pin #42 on that Connector, just pop it out and move it over to Pin #44.
How you pop it out is to take the Connector apart, carefully pop off the Red Plastic piece off of the front of it, and lift up on the plastic clip holding the wire in. As you lift on it, pull the wire out. Take a paper clip and push it through the rubber on #44, then carefully insert the wire you just pulled out into that spot.
On the other end of that wire, which should be near where the Auto Plug was, connect that to the Green wire on the Reverse Lockout Connector.
08-05-2011, 10:18 PM
#13
Good luck on the swap, had a buddy that just completed it and it was a lengthy process lol, if you need anyhelp let me know and i can ask him. I am sure there are plenty of people here though
