Greg Fell

iTrader: (9)

Ok, if we can assume that high rpm and lots of torque are what kill motors, not hp per se since this is not a measured force, rather a calculated number...

I want to run a progressive system on my DP stock bottom end LS6. I'm thinking of tossing out the HP numbers (until I'm 'done' tuning like I'd like), and running a progressive shot that keeps my torque at 550 all the way up from 3000 - 6800ish. If the motor will live at 550 tq @ 3000, it should with 550 tq @ 6x00.

Assumming I was able to pull this off, then look at the rwhp numbers, and they would be crazy. for example....550 tq @ 6400 = 670 rwhp.

Thoughts?

Debian Dog

Excuse my ignorance but... How do you plan to maintain ~550 of torque though the RPM range?

Greg Fell

iTrader: (9)

"....I want to run a progressive system on my DP stock bottom end LS6...."

In other words, a 250ish shot and a progressive system.

For example, start with 120, as torque falls, have progressive system add more juice.

Who has done this? What kind of results/experiences have you had?

Debian Dog

I have a progerssive system also and, maybe it is just me, but I would not do a 200+ shot without the thumbs up from my builder. I assume a ARE top end package does include rods and pistons? If not then I would say - don't. If yes then probably not a problem as long as you keep the fuel pressure up.

Greg Fell

iTrader: (9)

Debian Dog, you are correct. The top end package is just that, cam/heads etc.

But do you see my point? As RPM increases, the nitrous ingested by the motor decreases. So if a given amount X is 'safe' at a low RPM, if you could get the same amount X into the motor at a high RPM, it would still be 'safe'. I think most nitrous explosions (short of no fuel) are at low rpm due to too much torque.

Just mulling this over, not saying its gospel. I'd like some first hand results, if anyone has done this?

Greg Fell

iTrader: (9)

I'm bored....

RPM Torque HP
3000 500 285.6054836
3250 500 309.4059406
3500 500 333.2063976
3750 500 357.0068545
4000 500 380.8073115
4250 500 404.6077685
4500 500 428.4082254
4750 500 452.2086824
5000 500 476.0091394
5250 500 499.8095963
5500 500 523.6100533
5750 500 547.4105103
6000 500 571.2109673
6250 500 595.0114242
6500 500 618.8118812
6750 500 642.6123382
7000 500 666.4127951

Debian Dog

No, No... you are correct but once you get past the 500 HP range stuff tends to break (a lot of heavy stuff spinning fast) unless it has been hardend in some fashion. i.e. you could get away with a 200 HP shot on a 300 HP motor. But I am sure you closer to the 400 HP mark with your mods.

Also unless your progressive system is RPM based you going to have an issues regulating the gas during shifts. My system is based on the thottle position.

Greg Fell

iTrader: (9)

Ok. Is the heavy stuff spinning faster though? Not really. I'm not saying you aren't right, just playing devils advocate (see prior post about being bored )

Does anyone make an RPM based progressive system?

Debian Dog

Your thinking about running the stock crank shaft @ 7000 RPMs with a 200 shot of N2O? Let me know how that works out

Greg Fell

iTrader: (9)

well, if i were to do this, i'd prolly shift @ 6500. 7k makes me wince a bit.

Debian Dog

When I say "spins faster" I mean. I go from 3000-6400 RPM WAYYYYY faster on the hose. It is totally different on the motor.

Greg Fell

iTrader: (9)

What shot do you run Debian Dog, and how is your progressive system set up with regards to how much spray, when?

Debian Dog

Well I have not decided/figured out what to do for the new setup (headers, cam, injectors, etc) but before I had the N2O come on at 2800 to help my 2.73's get moving, at around a 35~50 shot then as I got into it past the 60' mark it would quickly ramp up to a 135 shot. Video's in sig. I figured it worked pretty good as I have not ran into a bunch of near stock 2.73 cars running 11.5's consistantly.

Right now I am still in the testing phase and have to get to the dyno again. Just got my wideband in yesterday. So that will help a BUNCH with the on-street tuning

Not that I am aware of.

Debian Dog

Opps! Here is the vid
http://dvmix.com/data/11SecTA.wmv

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Gregg..you are definately on the right track to getting the most out of your setup. I believe in the same theory and apply it to my setup. Although I just use dual stages controlled by RPM window switches. First stage at 3000..second stage at 4800 for me...all dry. I am going to add a third stage wet to come on at 5700 or so to continue that Tq out a bit more in the rpm range. Max Tq I look for is usually less than 700 ft/lbs at any point in the rpm range.

My crank is stock and offset ground. It has held up to 700 hp and 6800 rpm for over a year. The rest is Ross pistons and Lunati H beam rods.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Greg you can do it. I was thinking the same thing, but I am jumping ship from the bottle fed babies and wanting to stop relying on a bottle. I was researching the same thing, using a ProCon to limit it at the low end and rail an ***-load of nitrous in at the top. Would check with Dave @ Nitrous warehouse about the new controller from NX believe it has a RPM feature, or so it was advertised.

Good luck.

taqwache

Greg, i dont think you have to worry about stuff letting go due to the RPMs. i would just worry about melting pistons with that power level and spray, although you got the right idea with a progressive system. this will help keep the pistons cooler in the lower rpms, then when the Rs go up there is some room for more power. i think it will work fine but you will be on the edge of the stock pistons.

taqwache

oh yea, and just dont go up to that 7000. i think that 666hp is a sign.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

good eye taqwache!

Debian Dog

Right!

666 - I own your pistons