MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Blew a head gasket last week in the Formula. I am compiling a list of things I need before I tackle the job...Help me compile a list of everything I will need for the job.

Here's the list I have compiled so far...

(2) 1074 Felpro Gaskets
(1) 24 pack of Coors Light

What else do I need? What does everyone like for intake and header gaskets? Also wondering about head bolts...oem replacements, ARP, or ???

Thanks in advance...this will be my first time doing head gaskets...feel free to give me any newb pointers...

sleepy_z

iTrader: (8)

I'd get some ARP head bolts.

shbox

http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It will be quite an undertaking for your first time. You also need an offset 9/16" wrench to get one of the accessory bolts behind the power steering pump that bolts to the heads. If you cannot get the steam pipe off I've always had success using vice grips and a hammer. It messes up the bolt, but it's at least off, or you can keep it on and remove the heads together. It would be wise to have a friend help you lift them off or you'll risk bending the snot out of the steam pipe making it virtually impossible to reuse.
Good choice on the head gaskets. Use FelPro 1402's for header gaskets. Use either FelPro or stock intake gaskets. I don't remember what thread sealant to use on head bolts, but if you do a quick search it'll show up. I have used Ultra Black for head bolts before with success. Just don't use loc-tite for head bolts. I'd get ARP head bolts. If you plan on taking the heads off again any time they will pay for themselves since you can reuse them with confidence.
If the block deck is going to be bare for awhile then coat it and the cylinders with oil. Get your cylinder heads pressure tested and checked to see if they're true.
Most importantly, make absolutely sure all head bolts are unfastened before taking the heads off. If they are stubborn do not try to pry them off. There are 17 head bolts per side. Also, pay attention to the different sizes in head bolts when they come off. The lowest part of the cylinder heads will have the shortest bolts. The two outside (front/back) bolts on the middle row will have two medium length bolts and the rest will be long bolts.
I'm sure there's more, but feel free to post up any more questions.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

I'll second the grab a friend and pull both heads at the same time. It really will save you a lot of frustration with that steam pipe.

Depending on miles, now might be a good time to freshen other items up, like timing chain, cap and rotor, etc.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the heads up on the steam pipe, and I will have a buddy helping me that has done this before.

I plan on freshening a few things up while Im in there including ICM, cap and rotor, water pump gaskets, and I may upgrade to a GM LT4 heavy duty timing chain while I'm at it if the budget allows.

ZFreie

Not sure if you've seen this, but this is something I will be doing when my heads come off.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-pictures.html

His were done on after market heads, so I'm not exactly sure what is needed to convert stock heads, but if your there it seems fairly easy to do.

Figured I'd toss that out there.

96TransAmboosted

iTrader: (8)

A. Ratchet wrench will aid you in removing the steam pipe bolts.

You will need
Head gasket kit this includes all gaskets you will need. It comes with a little.tube of dtv but I suggest buying a big tube as well. Also PB blaster will aid in removing the exhaust bolts. Arp bolts ona stock car is unessary the stock replacment bolt will work just fine.

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

lol vice grips, those arent the most precise tool not, alls it takes is a short 15mm and a swivel head ratchet or even a straight.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Depends on the banjo bolt. Some bolts from GM were not an exact size and would easily strip. Massive complaints were made about this years ago. The easiest solution was to use vice grips and buy new bolts. GM later made banjo bolts available which were more wrench friendly.

mysticbowtie

You should look into Cometic head gaskets rather than the Fel-Pro's, they are much better! Fel-Pro is great for all the other gaskets though. If you use stock head bolts, remember that they are torque-to-yield bolts and should only be used once. ARP studs are a good investment as they are re-useable, but don't forget to use thread sealant on them to keep from leaking water. There are so many options....

Do some good research before tearing it down, so you can learn from others mistakes!

Best of luck!

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

If I am not swapping cams will I need to use a "dyno"/break in oil?

I have definitely considered this and was actually going to look for this thread tonight. Thank you!


What makes a head gasket "better" than another?

Also, does anybody have the part number for ARP head bolts?

ZFreie

Not a problem, glad i could help!

shbox

Not needed.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Can anybody confirm or deny that the AN fittings listed in the link above for the coolant crossover tube will or will not work for stock heads?

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

dont get STUDS, get BOLTS. studs can make it a pita to get the heads off with the motor in the car

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Bump, does anybody have the part number for the ARP bolts?

TimsLT1

I pulled the steam pipes on my car, i didnt find it to be so difficult. If indeed you do remove them, definitely replace the seals to the heads. There are a total of four. They are a small fortune at the dealer, but i found almost identical parts on the shelf at the parts store for about 3 dollars each. And im sure you have researched this, but DO tap the threads in the block before reinstalling the heads! I used Fel-Pro head bolts and I had an issue with a couple of them breaking off on the final pass... using two known good torque wrenches. May have just been a fluke, but this would be a good spot to invest a few dollars more in my opinion. Good luck and drink one for me.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

ARP-134-3601 are the bolts you want.

Also, by FAR the easiest way to deal with the steam tube is to get back there with a Dremel or other small cut-off wheel (if you have it) and cut the tube. When you go to put it back together splice them with a small piece of heater hose properly sized with two band clamps. This way you don't have to struggle taking off the bolts, replacing/finding the seals, etc.

Having said that, I converted to -AN fittings. If you choose to go this route, make sure you cut the holes in the heads with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap first. Coat the flutes of the tap with heavy grease first to catch the metal shavings.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Back up top, starting disassembly this weekend.

Getting:
ARP Head Bolts
ARP intake bolts (anybody have the number for these btw? I cant seem to find them anywhere...)
New Header Gaskets
NGK Spark Plugs
Felpro Head Gaskets

Also picking up a new ICM as I think I fried the old one when the engine overheated and plan to do the ICM cooling mod.

Is there a "kit" for the intake manifold gaskets? What all will I need there? What color of RTV should I use on the heads, intake, ect.?

Also, will I have to mess with the timing at all?