10.5's on motor....how much spray for a 9.9x?
06-06-2011, 11:48 PM
#1
10.5's on motor....how much spray for a 9.9x? Hey guys, sorry for such a vague question but i'm debating a few things and just curious what it would take to go from 10.50 to 9.90 in roughly a 3400#RW car? 402 motor with a pretty big n2o cam in it. All the supporting mods. Wet kit.
Thanks for humoring me!
Thanks for humoring me!
06-07-2011, 09:10 AM
#6
I agree that 100-150 will get you a 9.9x assuming you put it to the ground and the combo works.
I have went 9.6@139 on roughly 200 and the car went 10.6@126 NA. The car has went 142 mph and I still was working with traction issues the day of the 9.6 pass.
3300ish race weight
good luck
I have went 9.6@139 on roughly 200 and the car went 10.6@126 NA. The car has went 142 mph and I still was working with traction issues the day of the 9.6 pass.
3300ish race weight
good luck
06-07-2011, 09:26 AM
#7
That's plenty doable then. If i go this route i just didn't want to go above a 150 shot. right now the car runs a 10.86 @ 123.6 but has a little left in it but will be removing about 250 lbs to get to 3350, 3400 with a bottle and stand alone and all that goes with it. So i'm pretty sure 10.5's are doable. Doesn't even have any ram air setup yet and i'm sure a chriss1313 would improve my time as well.
The cam it has in it is a 247/258 623/623 112+2. Other specs are below in my sig. I'd be pretty f'n happy with 9.7-9.8's on a 150 shot. Would a 3.70 gear on a 28" tire be about right?
The cam it has in it is a 247/258 623/623 112+2. Other specs are below in my sig. I'd be pretty f'n happy with 9.7-9.8's on a 150 shot. Would a 3.70 gear on a 28" tire be about right?
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06-07-2011, 09:32 AM
#9
I'm sure with weight out and a Chrs1313 RA you will meet your goals with good air. I think Z8's picked up over 4mph when he went from a lid to Chrs1313 RA with his old SS / 416ci setup.
3.70 / 28" would be my suggestion for spray, but since you are going for 150HP the 4.10 / 28" combo will probably work assuming the converter work well on spray
3.70 / 28" would be my suggestion for spray, but since you are going for 150HP the 4.10 / 28" combo will probably work assuming the converter work well on spray
06-07-2011, 09:47 AM
#10
Wow! 4 mph is huge! I have a mwc 9 waiting to go in with 3.70's so i'll try that first and go from there. I'm not looking to rev the snot out of it so if i can run a 9 without going over 7k rpm, i'd be happy with that. Shift points are only at 67-6800 right now because the previous owner had longevity in mind which is fine by me but i'm confident taking it to 7k with some new springs and maybe get some lighter valves too.
06-07-2011, 09:54 AM
#11
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Get the nitrous on first. That is going to be a lot of coin for not much gain. Spray it, hit your goal, and then see if you want more. IMO.
06-07-2011, 10:24 AM
#13
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Pray Hrd,
I am running a very similar 408 s/u. Same race wt. 3.73 gears. 28 et drags. Car runs 10.7 @ 128 na. 9.7 @ 139 on a 150 shot. Nitrous Outlet plate and dedicated.
I am running a very similar 408 s/u. Same race wt. 3.73 gears. 28 et drags. Car runs 10.7 @ 128 na. 9.7 @ 139 on a 150 shot. Nitrous Outlet plate and dedicated.
06-07-2011, 10:28 AM
#14
I would not bother with the intake or lid swap. i would stick with the tighter converter and see how it works. I had a 4000-4200 and went to a 3600-3800 and picked up about 5 mph. The old converter was just way too loose on the gun.
06-07-2011, 10:44 AM
#16
If you are going to be spraying a 150 and you will want more one day a higher stall converter is not what your going to want. With spray you want a tighter verter so that when the extra 200+ft lbs. of tq comes in from the pill the motor doesn't blow through the loose *** stall. I'd say with your RW of 3400 a nice 3600-3800 stall would be about perfect, being a little lighter may help you get away with a little bigger of a stall.
Also don't go changing a bunch of stuff at once. Usually that makes you just go slower or the same speed, unless it's considerable changes to suspension, drivetrain, FI set-up etc.
Start small with just the nitrous jetting and leave the rest of the set-up alone. Nitrous is easy, cheap and fast as long as you don't blow anything up.
You don't need much to make N2O work well.
Also don't go changing a bunch of stuff at once. Usually that makes you just go slower or the same speed, unless it's considerable changes to suspension, drivetrain, FI set-up etc.
Start small with just the nitrous jetting and leave the rest of the set-up alone. Nitrous is easy, cheap and fast as long as you don't blow anything up.
You don't need much to make N2O work well. 
06-07-2011, 11:19 AM
#18
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Just giving you hard time. It does take much to make it work when your trying to run in the 9's with plans to go deeper.
Also, along the note cams was talking about.
You can have a high stall speed converter that works on nitrous. I think ATV's is around 5000. (Correct me if I'm Wrong.) There is much more that goes into getting a spot on converter than the advertised stall speed.
06-07-2011, 12:15 PM
#19
Well if i can get FTI to restall it and set it up to stall to say 4400 and yet be efficient, that would get me out of the hole that much faster so that's what my thinking was there. But i'll try what i have first and go from there as most everyone has suggested.
06-07-2011, 01:38 PM
#20
get the chassis figured out
get info on the shift extension and rpm thru the traps
reading plugs
Then after getting it working well you can make changes based of info retrieved with the help of us guys on the forums
