LS7 Clutch Install - Spacer?
#1
LS7 Clutch Install - Spacer?
Hey,
Just installed a lightweight single-mass flywheel and GM LS7 clutch. Bought the Katech spacer, thinking that I needed it to push out my stock LS2 slave cylinder. Problem is, when I went to put the transmission into the car, the slave was too far out to the transmission back in.
So I took the spacer out, and the transmission went in. I'm going to bleed the clutch tomorrow--what are the chances that the clutch won't work without the spacer, and what warning signs should I look for?
Just installed a lightweight single-mass flywheel and GM LS7 clutch. Bought the Katech spacer, thinking that I needed it to push out my stock LS2 slave cylinder. Problem is, when I went to put the transmission into the car, the slave was too far out to the transmission back in.
So I took the spacer out, and the transmission went in. I'm going to bleed the clutch tomorrow--what are the chances that the clutch won't work without the spacer, and what warning signs should I look for?
#2
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From my understanding if you use your stock slave and a spacer you have to cut a notch out of your bellhousing to make it fit. If you get an LS7 slave and remote bleeder it will not require the notch. Without the spacer or LS7 slave I dont believe your car will go into gear.
#3
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The Katech spacer was originally to install a C5 Z06 clutch. The stack height is different on the LS7 clutch so you need either the proper spacer for the LS7 clutch and stock slave or you need an LS7 slave. If you depress you pedal now, I bet you will push the piston out of the slave.
Personally I would just get an LS7 slave and save the hassle of measuring out everything for a proper spacer.
Personally I would just get an LS7 slave and save the hassle of measuring out everything for a proper spacer.
#4
The Katech spacer was originally to install a C5 Z06 clutch. The stack height is different on the LS7 clutch so you need either the proper spacer for the LS7 clutch and stock slave or you need an LS7 slave. If you depress you pedal now, I bet you will push the piston out of the slave.
Personally I would just get an LS7 slave and save the hassle of measuring out everything for a proper spacer.
Personally I would just get an LS7 slave and save the hassle of measuring out everything for a proper spacer.
Maybe I'm confused about the fundamental operation of the slave cylinder. The way that the slave is right now, the front of the piece is just touching the fingers of the clutch.
If I used the spacer, I would have had to compress the slave in order to get the transmission into the car. Maybe that's the way that it's supposed to go--I'm not sure.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 06-08-2011 at 04:34 AM.
#5
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Your research is incorrect. A spacer is only required with stock slave. The question was answered in one of your previous threads. You were advised against the spacer and to go with the LS7 slave instead.
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Lol if you have the proper spacer, why did you take it out? I say anytime fuzzylogic post to ask a question, nobody answers! How's that? I mean obviously he has already done the research so apparently he is just asking to see how many people he can dupe into some dumbass conversation in which his engineering degree will own everybody and he goes off and does his own thing anyway. It's not like anybody here has every actually installed an LS7 swap anyway so all our factual information is nothing compared to his research!!!
Last edited by raven154; 06-08-2011 at 02:50 PM.
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#8
I installed a Katech spacer for my McLeod twin disc conversion, I had to notch the bellhousing for the bleeder to fit (shoulda gone with a remote bleeder) and the clutch works perfectly now. I originally tried a 2010 camaro SS slave cylinder and that was too long and always pushed the clutch in.
#9
Loving the trolls. You'd think that the kind of people that can afford a CTS-V would all be balanced, intelligent individuals, but apparently not.
I took it out to see if the slave would compress as I connected the transmission. It didn't, so I knew I needed to put it back in.
If someone says something wrong, I say it. The idea is not to shove it back in someone's face--it's just to ensure that some other reader doesn't come along and get the wrong idea.
If you read the original post fully, you would have noticed that I have the stock slave. Also, I was advised both ways (which is exactly what happened here, again).
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All in all, I was simply looking for confirmation that the slave cylinder is supposed to be compressed into the fingers of the clutch. Answered my own question again (Raven's first post was insightful, although he basically shot himself in the foot afterward).
Lol if you have the proper spacer, why did you take it out? I say anytime fuzzylogic post to ask a question, nobody answers! How's that? I mean obviously he has already done the research so apparently he is just asking to see how many people he can dupe into some dumbass conversation in which his engineering degree will own everybody and he goes off and does his own thing anyway. It's not like anybody here has every actually installed an LS7 swap anyway so all our factual information is nothing compared to his research!!!
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All in all, I was simply looking for confirmation that the slave cylinder is supposed to be compressed into the fingers of the clutch. Answered my own question again (Raven's first post was insightful, although he basically shot himself in the foot afterward).
#12
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make sure your bleeder is open while you connect that slave to the master and put the transmission in. if there's any retained fluid you can blow a seal in the slave. I'm pretty sure that this is the case, someone please correct me if i'm wrong.
if you're having trouble getting the trans to mount, simply just start screwing bolts in and the bolts will draw the trans into the bell.
if you're having trouble getting the trans to mount, simply just start screwing bolts in and the bolts will draw the trans into the bell.
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It's funny you talk about trolls. A lot of people here know this car inside and out but your way is the only right way. If you don't like the responses you get, maybe you should try to be a bit more tactful with your replies. Many people on here have given you solid, sound replies. Just listen! I haven't seen anybody give you advise that is just flat out outrageous. The only thing I have seen is you criticize the advise given to you. I'm not trying to be an ***, just pointing out what I see. If you don't mind putting up with the **** you get when you post your pompous replies, by all means, post away!
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make sure your bleeder is open while you connect that slave to the master and put the transmission in. if there's any retained fluid you can blow a seal in the slave. I'm pretty sure that this is the case, someone please correct me if i'm wrong.
if you're having trouble getting the trans to mount, simply just start screwing bolts in and the bolts will draw the trans into the bell.
if you're having trouble getting the trans to mount, simply just start screwing bolts in and the bolts will draw the trans into the bell.
#19
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No it's not. Not in a 4k pound car. Mine would hold over 500rwhp but the pressure plate would fail and lock out operation of the clutch with high rpm. This is a pretty common occurrence thus far for high hp V's.