new trans am, first time at the strip
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new trans am, first time at the strip
Hello everyone,
I just recently bought a 99 T/A ws6 AUTO with 28k miles. It's in excellent condition.
Only mods are an slp lid which I put on, a flomaster muffler and drilled/slotted rotors which the previous owner installed. I've read that flomaster is the worst exhaust to have on it?
I took it to the track for the first time last night and ran 13.6 at 102. I wasn't really sure the best way to run it. I noticed that if I staged it too high at the launch it wheel-hopped really bad. Is this normal for t/a's?
Anyways, let me know what you think. My next mods will probably be headers, manual cutout and a tune. I'm wanting to keep it mostly stock at this point in time.
Thanks!
Nick
I just recently bought a 99 T/A ws6 AUTO with 28k miles. It's in excellent condition.
Only mods are an slp lid which I put on, a flomaster muffler and drilled/slotted rotors which the previous owner installed. I've read that flomaster is the worst exhaust to have on it?
I took it to the track for the first time last night and ran 13.6 at 102. I wasn't really sure the best way to run it. I noticed that if I staged it too high at the launch it wheel-hopped really bad. Is this normal for t/a's?
Anyways, let me know what you think. My next mods will probably be headers, manual cutout and a tune. I'm wanting to keep it mostly stock at this point in time.
Thanks!
Nick
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I've heard that about Flowmasters also, guy before me installed a flowmaster muffler which sounds AWESOME! So I'm kinda reluctant to let it go. Wish my car had that little of mileage, it's gonna roll 106k sometime next week
Pictures?
I don't wheel hop on launch, but I never drop it at 4k RPM (6speed) But I do wheel hop shifting to 2nd hard, along with it trying to run me to the side pretty hard. Go with SFC's, LCA's and torque arm from what I've gathered should get rid of that
Pictures?
I don't wheel hop on launch, but I never drop it at 4k RPM (6speed) But I do wheel hop shifting to 2nd hard, along with it trying to run me to the side pretty hard. Go with SFC's, LCA's and torque arm from what I've gathered should get rid of that
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Thanks for the advice! I agree the flowmaster sounds amazing on the t/a. I figure that it still has to be better than stock so i might as well keep it for now.
Ill work on getting pictures up tomorrow, a friend of mine took some pretty cool ones.
Ill work on getting pictures up tomorrow, a friend of mine took some pretty cool ones.
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Flowmaster barely flows better than stock, but they do sound GREAT on these cars! lol. Ultra-flo (or a bullet) by dynomax, or a magnaflow will be next in the sound department and in the upper range of performance. as far as at the track, the stock converter is best left at idle, I always got worse times trying to hold it at 1600 and release anyways. To improve it a bit go about 3/4 throttle till 2nd then the rest of the way down as soon as it shifts. when my Z was an auto I was able to get it to a 2.0 60' on standard street tires with a 18" wheel that way, so I was very happy with that method lol. (2.3 trying to leave and flash the converter @ 1600rpm) your mph looks dead on for a stockish LS1, just work on that launch to find your cars sweet spot ... speaking of what kind of 60' were you getting?
and my current car(sig) and my 94 Z both had wheel hop pretty bad =/
and my current car(sig) and my 94 Z both had wheel hop pretty bad =/
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I pulled a 2.1 60' nearly every time, even with the wheel hop. hope I can find that sweet spot!
I might look into dynomax exhaust when I do headers later on in the summer. Im in no hurry to get rid of the flowmaster.
I might look into dynomax exhaust when I do headers later on in the summer. Im in no hurry to get rid of the flowmaster.
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I have a auto 99 ws6 with 78,000 miles and flowmaster catback and k&n cai. I went to the strip my first time last night as well, but i didnt see a 13.6
my 1st was my best... a 13.8 with a .3 rt, then i started to get .1 rt's but my 1/4 was a 14.1 and a 14. idk why my car got slower the last 2 runs. kinda sucks
But the flowmaster exhuast sounds good for cruising,but for racing it sucks. what kinda of cutout are you going to use? i was going to put an electric cutout right at that straight piece of exhaust pipe between the cats and muffler. seems the best place..
my 1st was my best... a 13.8 with a .3 rt, then i started to get .1 rt's but my 1/4 was a 14.1 and a 14. idk why my car got slower the last 2 runs. kinda sucks
But the flowmaster exhuast sounds good for cruising,but for racing it sucks. what kinda of cutout are you going to use? i was going to put an electric cutout right at that straight piece of exhaust pipe between the cats and muffler. seems the best place..
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paullyB mine did the same thing...13.6, 13.7, 13.8. seems like the car gets hot pretty easily on the track.
as for the cutout, that location sounds like a good idea. although i am probably just going to have a manual cutout put on. I figure ill only be using it at the track and the occasional ride through the neighborhood
Good luck with the ride man!
Here are a couple pics of the t/a at its best! Enjoy
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
as for the cutout, that location sounds like a good idea. although i am probably just going to have a manual cutout put on. I figure ill only be using it at the track and the occasional ride through the neighborhood
Good luck with the ride man!
Here are a couple pics of the t/a at its best! Enjoy
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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Does the slp lid you put on support the ram air? I was wondering? And if you would do me a huge favor, measure the Inside diameter and outside diameter of the intake tube on the lid... I currently have a am lid on mine and a 95mm throttle body
Am sweet car btw
Am sweet car btw
#10
my 1st was my best... a 13.8 with a .3 rt, then i started to get .1 rt's but my 1/4 was a 14.1 and a 14. idk why my car got slower the last 2 runs. kinda sucks
But the flowmaster exhuast sounds good for cruising,but for racing it sucks. what kinda of cutout are you going to use? i was going to put an electric cutout right at that straight piece of exhaust pipe between the cats and muffler. seems the best place..
But the flowmaster exhuast sounds good for cruising,but for racing it sucks. what kinda of cutout are you going to use? i was going to put an electric cutout right at that straight piece of exhaust pipe between the cats and muffler. seems the best place..
As for Flowmaster other mufflers, get the one that sounds the best. You're talking less than a hp difference between stock and the best flowing. In a race, thats like a big bird crap hitting your windshield.
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nicentech,
yes i believe it does support the ram air. basically it is the stock lid without all the mufflers and baffles to reduce noise. In order to measure it for you I would have to remove it from the maf tube and that was sort of a pain to get in. It is made to be an extremely tight fit to the stock air tube, whatever that diameter may be.
What i understand though is all lids perform/sound exactly the same. If you already have an aftermarket lid, I wouldn't worry about buying an slp lid.
yes i believe it does support the ram air. basically it is the stock lid without all the mufflers and baffles to reduce noise. In order to measure it for you I would have to remove it from the maf tube and that was sort of a pain to get in. It is made to be an extremely tight fit to the stock air tube, whatever that diameter may be.
What i understand though is all lids perform/sound exactly the same. If you already have an aftermarket lid, I wouldn't worry about buying an slp lid.
#12
Here are a couple pics of the t/a at its best! Enjoy
http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/9...8777629927.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5...8777759927.jpg
http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/9...8777629927.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5...8777759927.jpg
#13
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I have a auto 99 ws6 with 78,000 miles and flowmaster catback and k&n cai. I went to the strip my first time last night as well, but i didnt see a 13.6
my 1st was my best... a 13.8 with a .3 rt, then i started to get .1 rt's but my 1/4 was a 14.1 and a 14. idk why my car got slower the last 2 runs. kinda sucks
But the flowmaster exhuast sounds good for cruising,but for racing it sucks. what kinda of cutout are you going to use? i was going to put an electric cutout right at that straight piece of exhaust pipe between the cats and muffler. seems the best place..
my 1st was my best... a 13.8 with a .3 rt, then i started to get .1 rt's but my 1/4 was a 14.1 and a 14. idk why my car got slower the last 2 runs. kinda sucks
But the flowmaster exhuast sounds good for cruising,but for racing it sucks. what kinda of cutout are you going to use? i was going to put an electric cutout right at that straight piece of exhaust pipe between the cats and muffler. seems the best place..
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Skopers I was just looking into torque arms...where is yours mounted? Ive found ones that mount on the trans, ones that work around stock exhaust, headers, etc. which location is the most effective?
#16
I think my best with 275 streets out back on stock WS6 wheels a budget muffler shop cat back and a drop in K&N filter. It would run 13.2-13.3 just about every pass and would do it all night. If i remember my best was a 13.17@107 on a 2.0 60.
The key is to get your 60 times down. Find out what best works for your car and find the point where it likes to bite with out spinning. If you are spinning you are not getting power to the ground so you are not going down the track. Some times bogging the car off the line is better then spinning. Try loading the car up a little on the converter but not all the way and then punch it on the last yellow if traction allows.
The key is to get your 60 times down. Find out what best works for your car and find the point where it likes to bite with out spinning. If you are spinning you are not getting power to the ground so you are not going down the track. Some times bogging the car off the line is better then spinning. Try loading the car up a little on the converter but not all the way and then punch it on the last yellow if traction allows.
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I have a full length, non-adjsutable UMI torque arm. If you're going to lower and do a lot of other suspension work you'll probably want and adjustable one. My understanding is that it's fine to mount to the trans unless you're making huge power, then you want to get it off but you may want to search around a bit about that.