Just traded for CTS-V
#1
Just traded for CTS-V
I just traded my 2001 T/A WS6 for a 07 CTS-V. I love this car. It already has K&N cai and magnaflow exhaust w/X-pipe. I think the clutch has been upgraded but i'm not sure. The pedal is very stiff. What would be some good upgrades for this car. I've been reading on the forum that headers don't gain much on this car. Would i be better off spending money on a cam for this car? Thanks.
#2
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Headers on an ls are pretty much the same across the board --- 20-25 hp on stock motor. Obviously nets more with the internal mods and top end of the motor. A cam on the ls2 will net more than the ls6 due to the bigger cube motor. Search the net for cammed gto info. That will be your best bet as far as sound quality and close whp #'s. The v will be slightly lower due to the increased drivetrain loss.
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Nice looking car! Looks pretty similar to mine minus the wheels. How many miles? Clear title? Sounds like u got the better deal if it was a straight trade!
LT headers is one of the best bolt ons you can do! Whoever said headers don't do much for this car doesn't know what they are talking about. If it doesn't have a short throw shifter... I'd do that. Stock shifter sucks!
LT headers is one of the best bolt ons you can do! Whoever said headers don't do much for this car doesn't know what they are talking about. If it doesn't have a short throw shifter... I'd do that. Stock shifter sucks!
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Yeah, headers are a good item to put on, although the om manifolds are not awful and perhaps whoever told you that factored in the price maybe? (for 1 7/8" and not the chinese ripoffs)...Add a tune to it and I could see picking up a solid 20 hp or so across the board. You're lucky you're not in commifornia, cause then it's almost not worth the hassle for smog and such, but I am still thinking about doing it anyway. Be sure to ceramic coat them inside/out though, mostly for the heat retention (if SS), but corrosion resistance for mild carbon steel (like Pacesetters).
If you decide on a cam, do a lot of research to make sure you get the right one for your needs. Bigger is not aways better and needs to match with your heads and other pertaining 'mods' (headers, etc.). I think our oem heads on the LS2 are pretty decent for a mid-range cam (increase) though, so your best gains would be to make sure to port match the intake and exhaust gasket and/or manifold(s), so that both ports and the gasket all are the same opening and nothing sticks out (flow direction) if that makes sense.
Our rears (07) aren't terrible, but they have limits too and mostly with wheelhop (damage to diff)...If you want something crazy, may look into that, as well, but IMO wait until down the road.
If you decide on a cam, do a lot of research to make sure you get the right one for your needs. Bigger is not aways better and needs to match with your heads and other pertaining 'mods' (headers, etc.). I think our oem heads on the LS2 are pretty decent for a mid-range cam (increase) though, so your best gains would be to make sure to port match the intake and exhaust gasket and/or manifold(s), so that both ports and the gasket all are the same opening and nothing sticks out (flow direction) if that makes sense.
Our rears (07) aren't terrible, but they have limits too and mostly with wheelhop (damage to diff)...If you want something crazy, may look into that, as well, but IMO wait until down the road.
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#8
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Check out this wedsite. This has alot of mods and fixes.
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/
Katch Short Throw Shifter CTS-V $259.99
http://store.katechengines.com/short...cts-v-p24.aspx
UUC Short Throw Shifter CTS-V $4?? (cant find the price)
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/CTSV/USSCTSV.htm
UUC Polyurethane Transmission mounts (I have one and I love it. Car shifts much better)
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/CTSV/MOUNTS/
SLP 160 Degree Thermostat $22.49 (cheap mod. My car runs about 180 on the freeway not traffic)
http://marylandspeed.com/slp-160-deg...228-p-474.html
NGK Iridium IX TR-55IX Spark Plugs $59.95 (tune up)
http://marylandspeed.com/ngk-iridium...-8-p-1113.html
Bushings, Anti-wheel Hop Kit $179.95 (helps a little)
https://securec20.ezhostingserver.co...&productid=425
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/
Katch Short Throw Shifter CTS-V $259.99
http://store.katechengines.com/short...cts-v-p24.aspx
UUC Short Throw Shifter CTS-V $4?? (cant find the price)
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/CTSV/USSCTSV.htm
UUC Polyurethane Transmission mounts (I have one and I love it. Car shifts much better)
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/CTSV/MOUNTS/
SLP 160 Degree Thermostat $22.49 (cheap mod. My car runs about 180 on the freeway not traffic)
http://marylandspeed.com/slp-160-deg...228-p-474.html
NGK Iridium IX TR-55IX Spark Plugs $59.95 (tune up)
http://marylandspeed.com/ngk-iridium...-8-p-1113.html
Bushings, Anti-wheel Hop Kit $179.95 (helps a little)
https://securec20.ezhostingserver.co...&productid=425
#10
It wasn't a straight trade but i happy with this car the T/A was high miles and i was getting sick of all the minor issuse and the rough loud ride. It had some damage on the fender that got repaired but no salvage title or anything. It has 34000 miles on it. Everything has been blacked out inculding the brake calipers and engine cover. I want some wheels but don't have the cash for that yet. Is it normal for these to have a stiff clutch pedal or has it been upgraded? I just read some where that the stock mainfolds flow pretty good. What would be a good budget header to go with? I know kook's makes some but is the some cheaper ones out there?
#11
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OBX makes some chinese ripoffs of kooks...I personally would never buy that crap, but others here have been happy with them. This isn't some crap beater, so don't skimp and save up for the quality...If you can live with 1 3/4" then pacesetters make some that look decent. IIRC, stainless works (?) and B&B make headers too, but not 100% on those.
As for you clutch pedal, did you check your fluid? Not sure just how stiff you mean, but I notice when my fluid gets contaminated, the pedal does funny things. Nothing like my vr4 (that is a stiff clutch), but noticeable. May not be the issue, but check it anyway.
As for you clutch pedal, did you check your fluid? Not sure just how stiff you mean, but I notice when my fluid gets contaminated, the pedal does funny things. Nothing like my vr4 (that is a stiff clutch), but noticeable. May not be the issue, but check it anyway.
#12
Thanks,
Jenks
#13
The clutch is the stiffest i have ever felt. But i haven't drove any cars with a upgraded clutch before or any other cts-v's. Comepared to the Trans am it is way stiffer. But the Trans am's was probly worn out. Also there is a steel braided line that goes behind the engine on the drivers side witch i think goes to the tranny. To make bleeding the clutch easier i'm guessing.
#14
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Interesting about the clutch...I had an 06 GTO that I bought new and from day 1 that pedal always seemed so soft and would suffer from the fluid boiling over, cause the slave line ran right near the exhaust manifold. We're lucky we don't have that design flaw...can be fixed, but really sucked getting on it on the freeway only to have the pedal sink to the floor then not work for a few seconds.
However, on the V, the pedal is still somewhat soft, but not as soft as the GTO was. It feels firm, but not stiff. But, like I was saying, when the fluid gets messed up, it does feel different; sometimes stiffer.
Perhaps they didn't bleed the clutch properly when they put that ss line in there? May want to check that out, too...if you have a remote bleeder, makes life much easier...Bleeding these aren't hard, it's just getting to the bleeder screw.
I mean, it's possible they replaced the clutch, but unless it's some wild unit, shouldn't be overly stiff, fwiw...
However, on the V, the pedal is still somewhat soft, but not as soft as the GTO was. It feels firm, but not stiff. But, like I was saying, when the fluid gets messed up, it does feel different; sometimes stiffer.
Perhaps they didn't bleed the clutch properly when they put that ss line in there? May want to check that out, too...if you have a remote bleeder, makes life much easier...Bleeding these aren't hard, it's just getting to the bleeder screw.
I mean, it's possible they replaced the clutch, but unless it's some wild unit, shouldn't be overly stiff, fwiw...
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1-3/4 is just fine for N/A applications. The 1-7/8 is really only NEEDED if you plan to run a blower or turbo setup.
Jenks, good pricing as long as shipping both ways won't cost an arm and a leg! I may have to shoot you a pm and figure out a color combo I think I'd like to try something different. Love the black powdercoat I have now and my wheels are still perfect but it's played out. I feel like every black V now has black wheels. Wonder what other color/colors would look good on an otherwise murdered V? Hmmm. Got me thinking now! Lol I'll prob grab an extra stock set when I come across a good deal to experiment with. I believe Brentman2007 had some gunmetal/titanium colored wheels on his black V that looked nice! That may be an option. Or maybe something wild like lime green, orange or a bright red. Lol
Jenks, good pricing as long as shipping both ways won't cost an arm and a leg! I may have to shoot you a pm and figure out a color combo I think I'd like to try something different. Love the black powdercoat I have now and my wheels are still perfect but it's played out. I feel like every black V now has black wheels. Wonder what other color/colors would look good on an otherwise murdered V? Hmmm. Got me thinking now! Lol I'll prob grab an extra stock set when I come across a good deal to experiment with. I believe Brentman2007 had some gunmetal/titanium colored wheels on his black V that looked nice! That may be an option. Or maybe something wild like lime green, orange or a bright red. Lol
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"Starting" at $50 per wheel. Powder Coating is easy, it's the prep work that can get expensive and time consuming. If I have a solid wheel to start with, or set of wheels, with a good finish that I can use as a base instead of completley stripping then I pass on my time savings in $ form to you. Even if you send me curbed to death rims with rattle can black/pink all over them my price is $100 per or $400 for the set plus shipping. I can also do multiple colors for more. Forexample, I finished my old Z with satin black front and gloss red internals/backs. It was my alternative to painted calipers...
Thanks,
Jenks
Thanks,
Jenks
#19
1-3/4 is just fine for N/A applications. The 1-7/8 is really only NEEDED if you plan to run a blower or turbo setup.
Jenks, good pricing as long as shipping both ways won't cost an arm and a leg! I may have to shoot you a pm and figure out a color combo I think I'd like to try something different. Love the black powdercoat I have now and my wheels are still perfect but it's played out. I feel like every black V now has black wheels. Wonder what other color/colors would look good on an otherwise murdered V? Hmmm. Got me thinking now! Lol I'll prob grab an extra stock set when I come across a good deal to experiment with. I believe Brentman2007 had some gunmetal/titanium colored wheels on his black V that looked nice! That may be an option. Or maybe something wild like lime green, orange or a bright red. Lol
Jenks, good pricing as long as shipping both ways won't cost an arm and a leg! I may have to shoot you a pm and figure out a color combo I think I'd like to try something different. Love the black powdercoat I have now and my wheels are still perfect but it's played out. I feel like every black V now has black wheels. Wonder what other color/colors would look good on an otherwise murdered V? Hmmm. Got me thinking now! Lol I'll prob grab an extra stock set when I come across a good deal to experiment with. I believe Brentman2007 had some gunmetal/titanium colored wheels on his black V that looked nice! That may be an option. Or maybe something wild like lime green, orange or a bright red. Lol
#20