ARP bolts needed for spray cam and heads
09-14-2011, 08:26 PM
#1
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ARP bolts needed for spray cam and heads Im in the middle of building my ls1. different heads, cam and a 150 shot. what bolts should be replaced with ARP, and which ones would be ok to use oem? i was thinking ARP mains and oem head bolts.
09-14-2011, 08:38 PM
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FWI i was using ALL stock hardware at ~520 rwhp on a 100 shot. i got greedy and turned up the rev limiter to 6700 and hit the rev limiter HARD by accident.. left it in first gear after the burnout and hit the limiter under full throttle at 6700 ... doh. my rod bolts do have the ferrules which i believe are the updated bolts but i could be wrong. anyways 5 and 6 rod bearings decided they hated life. when i unbolted the rod bolts 5 and 6 were loose (air ratchet took them off easily with the other bolts i had to twist the air rachet before it would take them off) probably from stretching.
anyways main bolts should be fine. rod bolts are needed for higher rpm... but rods need to be re sized with arp. would probably get arp head bolts or studs instead of mains at that power goal.
anyways main bolts should be fine. rod bolts are needed for higher rpm... but rods need to be re sized with arp. would probably get arp head bolts or studs instead of mains at that power goal.
09-15-2011, 10:30 AM
#4
Already covered, but, will re-state.
Head & rod bolts since you're building. You must measure the effect that stretching the rod bolts has on the rod bearings because the torque required to get the proper ARP rod bolt stretch will collapse the bearing clearance between the bearing & crank. So, re-sizing is usually required.
The ARP head studs, that were noted, are better than using ARP head bolts because the block threads only see the clamping load where if using ARP bolts, the block threads see both the torque (twist) & the clamping force. Other benefit of studs is that you won't have coolant to clean out of the threaded holes next time the head are pulled.
Should also note that the GM rod bolts were already upgraded sometime around the introduction of the LS6 & probably before that. Memory tells me from 2000 on, but, my memory sucks, so double check. Also, verify the upgraded GM bolts tensile & yield stress compared to ARP.
Head & rod bolts since you're building. You must measure the effect that stretching the rod bolts has on the rod bearings because the torque required to get the proper ARP rod bolt stretch will collapse the bearing clearance between the bearing & crank. So, re-sizing is usually required.
The ARP head studs, that were noted, are better than using ARP head bolts because the block threads only see the clamping load where if using ARP bolts, the block threads see both the torque (twist) & the clamping force. Other benefit of studs is that you won't have coolant to clean out of the threaded holes next time the head are pulled.
Should also note that the GM rod bolts were already upgraded sometime around the introduction of the LS6 & probably before that. Memory tells me from 2000 on, but, my memory sucks, so double check. Also, verify the upgraded GM bolts tensile & yield stress compared to ARP.
