Is there Aany clutch that will SHIFT PASSED 7000 RPM'S
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Is there Aany clutch that will SHIFT PASSED 7000 RPM'S
Okay did some testing sunday and came home with a fail. I want to hear from the mods them selfs. you all say your clutch's shift at high rpms. show me a setup that does just this. i have been shifting my car at 7400 to 7500 now ( well okay trying to shift it there) but no clutch is allowing me to do so. So please step in and showme how its done and the parts its done with.
Rob
Rob
#3
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What exactly is the problem? Is the clutch sticking to the floor or is it just blocking you out of the next gear? Single cone blocking rings in the f-body T56s don't tend to like 7k+ shifts too much unless they are pretty fresh. It might not be as much of a clutch problem as you think. Also is your pilot bearing fresh and working smoothly?
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What exactly is the problem? Is the clutch sticking to the floor or is it just blocking you out of the next gear? Single cone blocking rings in the f-body T56s don't tend to like 7k+ shifts too much unless they are pretty fresh. It might not be as much of a clutch problem as you think. Also is your pilot bearing fresh and working smoothly?
and no the clutch is not sticking to the floor.
#6
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Gotcha. If the trans is fresh it should shift that high no problem.
Have you measured your air gap and does the disk fit fairly tight on the splines so it cant flutter and drag the pressure plate and flywheel?
Also are you running a pilot bearing or bushing?
I ran a SPEC4 in my old SS and shifted it as high as 7500rpm with no issues. I added a .040 shim behind the flywheel to move the pressure plate closer to the slave. This helped to widen my air gap when the clutch was pressed. The regular slave shims out there were too thick for my car and the pressure plate fingers drug the bearing badly.
Have you measured your air gap and does the disk fit fairly tight on the splines so it cant flutter and drag the pressure plate and flywheel?
Also are you running a pilot bearing or bushing?
I ran a SPEC4 in my old SS and shifted it as high as 7500rpm with no issues. I added a .040 shim behind the flywheel to move the pressure plate closer to the slave. This helped to widen my air gap when the clutch was pressed. The regular slave shims out there were too thick for my car and the pressure plate fingers drug the bearing badly.
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Gotcha. If the trans is fresh it should shift that high no problem.
Have you measured your air gap and does the disk fit fairly tight on the splines so it cant flutter and drag the pressure plate and flywheel?
Also are you running a pilot bearing or bushing?
I ran a SPEC4 in my old SS and shifted it as high as 7500rpm with no issues. I added a .040 shim behind the flywheel to move the pressure plate closer to the slave. This helped to widen my air gap when the clutch was pressed. The regular slave shims out there were too thick for my car and the pressure plate fingers drug the bearing badly.
Have you measured your air gap and does the disk fit fairly tight on the splines so it cant flutter and drag the pressure plate and flywheel?
Also are you running a pilot bearing or bushing?
I ran a SPEC4 in my old SS and shifted it as high as 7500rpm with no issues. I added a .040 shim behind the flywheel to move the pressure plate closer to the slave. This helped to widen my air gap when the clutch was pressed. The regular slave shims out there were too thick for my car and the pressure plate fingers drug the bearing badly.
Rob
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#8
FormerVendor
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Unfortunitely the window in the Quicktime bells aren't big enough to measure air gap through. The best way I have found to measure air gap is to cut the bottom of a stock bellhousing off and bolt everything up. I measured the Quicktime bellhousing down to the thousandth of an inch and shimmed the stock bellhousing accordingly then measured the air gap.
#9
The Stage 4 would be a great option due to the reduced rotational mass of the disc. We also build this unit in a 4-puck version which reduces weight further. Proper spacing is imperative so as a result it is best to check measurements, we provide a measurement sheet with our kits. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
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The Stage 4 would be a great option due to the reduced rotational mass of the disc. We also build this unit in a 4-puck version which reduces weight further. Proper spacing is imperative so as a result it is best to check measurements, we provide a measurement sheet with our kits. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Rob
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Unfortunitely the window in the Quicktime bells aren't big enough to measure air gap through. The best way I have found to measure air gap is to cut the bottom of a stock bellhousing off and bolt everything up. I measured the Quicktime bellhousing down to the thousandth of an inch and shimmed the stock bellhousing accordingly then measured the air gap.
Rob
#13
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T56 transmissions HATE pilot bushings. The bushing drags on the input shaft transfering power through the transmission even with the clutch disengauged. This causes the trans to act like the clutch isn't working properly. The pilot bearing is the only way to go on the T56 transmissions. Unfortunitely people have had the bearings fail in the past and automatically think they are a poor design and revert back to the bushing. This is a very bad idea. A fresh pilot bearing along with a good air gap in the clutch is the best way to insure a good power cut between the engine and transmission for smooth shifting.
#14
The Stage 3 uses a sprung-hub disc and the 4 uses a rigid hub. They are both normally a 6-puck design but both can be bought with a 4-puck set-up too. These units actually work the same way but the 4 is lighter because it doesn't have springs.
I don't have a postable version of this. I can email it to you which would be quicker, if you like. Let me know. Thanks,
I don't have a postable version of this. I can email it to you which would be quicker, if you like. Let me know. Thanks,
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The Stage 3 uses a sprung-hub disc and the 4 uses a rigid hub. They are both normally a 6-puck design but both can be bought with a 4-puck set-up too. These units actually work the same way but the 4 is lighter because it doesn't have springs.
I don't have a postable version of this. I can email it to you which would be quicker, if you like. Let me know. Thanks,
I don't have a postable version of this. I can email it to you which would be quicker, if you like. Let me know. Thanks,