68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

Hello guys after months of lurking and study Im going to attempt my first ls swap into my chevelle.

The victim:68 chevelle
New heart: 03 lq4 6.0
trans: th400 w/ 2800 stall
rear:12 bolt w/ 3.55

Ive already got the blown 454 out and started collecting parts what i got so far

03 lq4 6.0 with 65k
ls6 intake complete
holley oil pan
hooker ls swap headers (painted)
holley motor plates (stock location)
Energy Suspension tall motor mounts
-6an Braided fuel lines and fittings
corvette filter/regulator
Mercury Mariner dual Electric Fans (free)
4l80e flywheel spacer bolts

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

The victim.

oldgoat69

Looks good so far, this one has been done before many times. Pick a path and stay with it. Look at the stickys, and the threads then dive in.

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

Thanks man. Ive been reading and searching for months now so lets hope the path i picked is correct, guess time will tell.

flywheel

iTrader: (2)

Deciding on the accessory drive will dictate what way you can go with alot of things.....using the hooker mounts (stock location)the trk AC brkt is out of the question.
Personally, I would look into an overdrive tranny. It REALLY makes the car more enjoyable on road trips....If that's what your going to do with it.....You won't be sorry if you did......Good luck, It's addictive, I know, Im starting on my 2nd switch over in my 66 post chevelle.....
Rick

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

What did you paint the engine with?

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

Im using the truck accessories, as im not running an A/C. When i decide to take that leap im going to use the kwik bracket. As for the trans i have to roll with what i got for now as funds aren't there for a new one. The "original" plan was to run the BBC this year and bank money for a t-56 or a keisler tko, and do the LS and manual trans setup all at once but that didnt happen.

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

I first degreased it with oven cleaner and degreaser, then used the spray bomb engine primer from AutoZone and then painted it with their spray bomb engine paint.

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

Welp made a lil bit more progress today got my flexplate all ready to and TC holes all enlarged. After getting it put on went in for the first test fit, and it was a FAIL. Got one bolt in the mount and the other is bout inch or two away from going in because the pan is sitting on the cross member.

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

Only idea i got rate now is unbolting the frame stands and use 1" square tubing as a spacer? But trying to hold off on that idea cuz a previous owner also welded them to the frame.

oldgoat69

If you need it I have a list of the correct part #'s to make it all work. You will need to cut the welded mounts off the frame. If you are using truck accessory drive the PS pulley is a requirement.

PS pulley...Dorman 300-123
Frame brackets...3378 carpartsdiscount.com
Adapter brackets to engine...Dougs SK100 (most other similar should work)
Mounts....Energy Suspension 3-1117G
I used a Canton pan 13-274, pickup 13-275 and oil filter base 22-631.

TomM

iTrader: (56)

You have your engine mounts on upside down.....looks good though..

T,

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

I already have the energy suspension brackets. Im using truck accessories and figured i would have the change the p/s pulley. Im also using the holley oil pan and holley motor plates. Did you have to use any shims or spacers with your set up. Did your frame brackets sit in the stock location or did you have to move them to?

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

Good catch thanks!

TomM

iTrader: (56)

You're welcome............don't ask me why I saw that right away....LOL

T,

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

Well got back out to the garage this weekend to mess with the car some. Got the motor mounts grounded off and frame all cleaned up. Tried raising the motor with the 1" square tubing but it was going to be way to much. So a buddy had so 3/8 flat stock laying around so we stacked them on each other and they are going to work out good, plenty of clearance everywhere on pan, tie rods don't hit, headers have plenty of room. We will have to drill new holes in the cross member to get them to bolt up correctly.

99VetteFRC

I used 3/8 flat washers and welded them together to make spacers. Kinda hacked, I know, but at the time it's all I had. Works great though.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

The best thing to do would be to bolt the plates to the engine with the motor mount and then attached the frame stand to the mounts. Then drop it in, then move the engine around to where it needs to be and with any spacer required to raise the engine up as needed. Mark the frame stands and remove the engine and redrill for the new location of the Frame stands.

Also to raise the engine, I used tall and narrow engine mounts, narrow the frame stand so that Tall and narrow mount can be used. I also narrow the frame stand an extra 1/2" so that I could find tune or jack the engine up or back some. (yeah over kill).






BC

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

Yeah i been reading your build and saw what you did thats what gave me the tubing idea but 1" was to much trans was hitting firewall.

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

That's exactly what i did bolted it all together set her in there jacked it up till everything cleared and then measured what size spacer i needed. I slid a piece of 3/8 plate in there and sat it down and it cleared but i wanted a little more. So going to go with 1/2 drill some new holes and call it good.

As for the frame stands i know they had 2 different ones 307 which were tall and wide and the sb/bb stand that was shorter and skinnier. Guess guys have had better luck with the 307 stand but ive seen you have to cut it and make it skinnier to fit the tall energy suspension mounts.