J-Train

Well I am still waiting on some parts to be delivered but tear down is almost complete. I am throwing a TSP228R in the CETA. This car is a relativley low mileage DD so I cheaped out on some stuff to make this the easiest cam install I could. I am not changing the timing chain, oil pump or seals.

A couple questions about some deviations I have in mind from the LS1howto instructions. First off everything has went very smooth so far. I have the cam ready to come out, rockers removed, radiator out, damper off, basically I have to spin the cam install the dowels and pull the cam. I plan to used the TDC method for changing the spings. Any reason I can't just leave the spark plugs in to save time. They can be a major PITA to mess with. Just knowing the engine seqencing, I feel confident enough to trust my timing marks to know what pistons are up without having to pull the plugs and stick a straw or something in there to verify. If the piston is not where it's supposed to be I have bigger problems.

Btw I used a MAP torch to heat the damper bolt, and used the serpentine belt in conjunction with the alternator pulley as a strap wrench to avoid having to pull the starter and wedge a screw driver in the flywheel. It worked like a dream, the heat also made actaully pulling the damper a breeze with my 20$ advance 4" 3 jaw puller. No issues what so ever. I did invest 50$ in the Hawk balancer install tool, seemed the way to go.

J-Train

I got to thinking about thissome more, and the more I thought about it, the more I hoped someone would chime in on the spark plug question. If you leave them in and spin the motor with no push rods (Valves closed by spring pressure on the springs) will this cause any damage, or will it even be possible seeing how the compression would build with no where to go with the valves pinned closed. True? Or can you still spin the motor over with no pushrods installed

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

If I understood correctly, you'll be leaving the springs on with the rockers off.
In this case, it would be a load to rotate the crank against closed valves and compressed air in all 8 cylinders.
I would definitely remove the plugs.

dodson55

iTrader: (18)

remove the plugs also change the seals while you are in there its nor worth having to redo a job over a 30 dollar part

J-Train

I decided just to throw some new TR55's in anyway while doing this so plugs coming out to be on the safe side. And I respectfully disagree with doing the seals for the hell of it. My car is realativly low miles and has no issues with seals or smoke now. If you do a search on here there are several instances of guys having issues with seals after they have changed them it seems to be pretty common actually. My way of thinking if it aint broke why mess with it, but thats just me.

mpatton

I would change the seals. By seals you mean gaskets correct? I don't see why you aren't. Unless they're just phenomenal. Id still change em