WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

This is my first valve spring job. I have TFS heads with a broken valvespring so I was repl all of them. I have the Proform compressor tool:



However, whenever I compress, the valve goes down with springs and I cannot get to keepers like in their video. I have tapped valves stems lightly with hammer. Also, I am only using rope in cylinder, not compressed air if that matters. I borrowed a std jaws type compressor tool, but same thing, spring compresses and valve goes with it. Is there a trick I am missing?

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

You need air pressure in the cylinder. It works better.

96 Comp T/A

iTrader: (8)

Air works good. Make sure you that you roll the motor up to TDC on each one, in case you lose air pressure so the valve doesn't drop in to the cylinder. Or you can feed a bit of soft rope through the sparkplug hole and roll the motor around to TDC, or close to it. Make sure you leave some hanging out of the spark plug hole so that you can retrieve the rope when done.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

Top dead center and/or compressed air.

WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

Used compressed air - much better. I couldn't get the valve to release from the springs. Intake came loose with a light tap of hammer and exhaust took a bit more of a shot. But all good, got first one done.

Sales3@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (2)

Slightly tapping them with a plastic dead blow hammer will usually do the trick on loosening the retainer from the locks.

mrvedit

100 psi of air pressure puts 1200 lbs on the piston (pi x r squared) which will move it down to BDC unless you can lock the flywheel. (Perhaps if the piston is precisely at TDC, it will stay there.)

I put a 7/8" socket on a 6" extender, placed it over the retainer and hit it just hard enough with a hammer to see the valve move. It was then loose. However, I suspect Jake's plastic hammer is the safer and correct method.

WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

I didn't have a compressor so I borrowed one, but I did not see how to adj air pressure. When I first put air into cylinder, car tried to shoot forward. Nobody mentioned that part. Went and put car in neutral.

I just tapped valve stem with hammer and they all came loose. I got driver side done. Passenger side head had to come off for some milling from the broken spring damage, so shop is going to replace those springs.

Thanks for all the help.

JIMB

iTrader: (2)

I did the rope thing. It worked well. Feed in a hunk of rope with some left out side of course with the piston down in the cylinder. With a breaker bar on the damper bolt slowly bring up the piston holding the valves in place. You can feel it as it compresses the rope. Tap the valvespring with dead blow plastic hammer to loosen the keepers and you are good. Not high tech but it works.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that is why most will recommend putting the piston either at TDC or BDC. I prefer BDC because there's no chance the engine will spin over. I think the reason for using TDC is if you lose air pressure or the valves unseat for some reason, there's not enough room for them to fall all the way down. They'll just rest on the piston and enough stem will stick out to grab them again.

mebuildit

I just bought one of these to change valve springs.