Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

I have two questions as I am considering doing the drill mod on my 2000 SS M6. I don't have the sticky clutch, but I have hard some issues in the 2-3 shift at higher RPM's. I am sure the fluid is nasty, so the flush may help a bit. My questions are:

1) Is there a reason that this can't be done with the master cylinder on the car? Is there just not enough clearance to get the roll pin out to remove the hose?

2) I've read a few references to "negative effects" and "headaches" in performing the drill mod, however, I haven't been able to find any. Other than messing the process up (like drilling the wrong end, or not drilling straight) are there any potential ill effects?

The reason I ask is that I will be flushing the system no matter what. If there are no ill effects to the drill mod, it seems I should just do it instead of flushing and then finding out I need to drill and having to flush/bleed again.

White6SpdZ28

iTrader: (6)

Imho I would skip the drill mod and get a tick. Best money I spent. Can shift like no other

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

I'll do something like that down the line. Really don't have the cash to drop on a tick right now - brakes and suspension need some attention.

Basically, I picked this car up in June 2012 and it's got just shy of 70k on it. Before I start driving it this year, I want to do full maintenance on it - plugs, fluids, etc. Like I mentioned, I'll be flushing the fluid anyway, so I had those two questions.

White6SpdZ28

iTrader: (6)

Gotcha. Know the feeling. Bought mine last march and did maint along with trans rebuild,New clutch, tick, 9 in and some other stuff but yea drill the right side and do it straight you will be fine

White6SpdZ28

iTrader: (6)

And the other. I don't see a problem with just taking the line out just as long as the resivor is empty

SMOKNSS

iTrader: (3)

The only problem I see is getting the line out. The line has a roll pin in it that holds the line inside the master cylinder. IIRC. Which means you would have to remove the master cylinder to gain access to the roll pin.

I did this mod when I broke my first six speed back in 2007. I tried it as I was having problems shifting my car with a SPEC 2+ and nitrous with all of the stock hydraulics. I tried the "drill mod" and it didnt help anything. Maybe you will have different results.

Good luck.

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks guys.

I think I'll give it a whirl if it won't hurt anything. If I can get to the roll pin with the MC on the car, I'll do it, otherwise, I'll just pull the MC and remove the line.

Delfygo

iTrader: (2)

Careful on breaking a drill bit off, some of the bad I read on this mod was breaking a bit off because you are enlargeing a previous hole the bit catches and pow your buying a new mc.

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much if this shifting issue has developed over time it's more than likely a failing part and you're wasting your time unless of course the fluid is real nasty. If you're going to remove it I would at least replace it with a new oem master to save yourself the trouble of not knowing whether that is your issue still down the road.

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't say it's an overly common occurrence, but it's happened a few times. I can't really say whether it's developed over time or gotten worse. I picked up the car in June and only put about 3k miles on it this year. Also, for 6 weeks of the 4 month driving season it was in the shop because I got rear-ended.

If my memory serves me correctly, the fluid is pretty dirty - being that I don't know the full history of the car, I have to go on the assumption that the fluid is original so it's 13 years old and has almost 70k on it.

I just thought I may as well do the mod if it won't hurt anything being that I need to flush the system anyway - instead of flushing, finding it out still gives me the occasional problem, and then having to do the mod and bleed it again later.

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

I see..

I still reccomend repacing the master with an oem unit and drill modding the new one. That way you can avoid having to mess with it again. If memory serves me correctly they are not too expensive.

cbbass123

If you can take the roll pin and line out and reinstalling without the removal of the master, then I will call you godly.

Save trouble and buy a new autozone AP oem style and drill the line safely. At 70k, that master cant last too much longer. You never know. Cheaper insurance than getting a tick.