ronnieforrester

iTrader: (3)

Ive searched and saw a wide variation.


Do they come with specs in the box now ?

ARP specs ?




Also are you guys spraying copper coat on the LS9 gaskets or putting them on dry ?



thanks

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

I dont know if they have the specs in the box, I just torqued them like ARP's, 75ft/lb for the big bolts, 25 ft/lbs for the small ones.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

this is what i did also, i heard of people breaking some trying to hit 80ftlbs...

there is another thread here where a guy said he talked to the owner, and said do not exceed 65ftlbs.... so since he talked to the guy who sells the KMJ studs, and said do not go over 65. not sure if i would either haha

also to the OP, i have used gaskets dry, and no problems.

i re-use head gaskets also, so to make sure the water jacket seals i lightly copper spray them.

like when i **** a piston, i open er up, replace the piston, and then quick spritz the hg and then slam it back down.

no issue.

i would say stop at 65ftlbs 75 max like ^he says, or call the owner at KMJ and as him, i dont think ours cam with spec's either! thats why i just did the ARP 40-80

denmah

iTrader: (2)

Originally Posted by LS1 240sx
Thats badass. wow. Im running kmj head studs as well. 60 bucks and ive thrown 18psi threw a 76mm and they stayed put. one thing that gave them a bad name was when installing they would snap well talking to the owner about he said DO NOT exceed 55 ft lbs. during install. I did exactly that and they went on fine and have been holding up about 4 months of abuse.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

goddamn only 55ftlbs!

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

guess I got luckly, consider I tq'd them about 35-40% more then recommended.

SMOKNSS

iTrader: (3)

Damn!!! 55lbs?!?!?! I would probably go 65 and not think much of it, but 55?!?!

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

I have been running these on 3 diffrent projects 06 gto, ls1 swap mustang and now my 88mm 5.3
the 06 gto I torqued down to 75lbs with no problem holding 22psi through a built engine
(all the same size studs)
the ls1 swap mustang tried to go to 75lbs and snapped one of the long studs in the block, back them all back off and went 65lbs no problem.
my 88mm 5.3 build copper coated every layer and torqued to 65lbs, tuning will began this weekend. will post up results looking to make 750rwhp around 22psi

atomic 6

Are all of you using motor oil or assembly lube, or the ARP grease when torqued to these numbers??

I have done 75 in three increments, with ARP's lube.

If using oil you wouldn't have the same torque I do using the lube, and the 65 lbs some are doing could be the same as my 75 with the ARP lube.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

I do 90# on the big ones and 30# on the small ones using 30wt oil.

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

MOLY LUBE with mine

denmah

iTrader: (2)

i shove em in used motor oil and i have hit 80 with an extension like 3 incher

i make sure they are soaked in oil since i broke that ARP head bolt once lol

01snake

Cranked mine to ~85ft lbs on big ones and ~33 on small ones.

This was done using motor oil on threads

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

Do you have any idea what to torque the small ones to?

ronnieforrester

iTrader: (3)

Just an update to anyone who finds this thread in the future.


Installed the LS9 gaskets ($91 shipped at Summit/price match gmpartsdirect) and Pro Comp studs and all is well.


car cruises at about 190* and will get up to ~195 in traffic.


Ive gotten in to boost several times- would have definitely overheated previously and it creeps to about 205-208 after 3-4 boost pulls then goes right back down to 195 within 30 seconds.


thanks for all the input.


I torqued to 75lbs using a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and a small extension using oil.

25lbs on the small uppers.






there were some small QC issues I noticed, the hex in the top of the big studs was off center on a few and not very well finished- i did have to tap the hex drive socket into a few of them in a vise before installing them in the engine- I can live with that.


also the small studs had no hex- not sure if the ARP's do or not- just ran then down with a nut- held the smooth part of the stud with a pair of pliers and backed the nut off.