LS1 Break In...All or over time?
#1
LS1 Break In...All or over time?
Gents,
Looking into firing up the LS1 (Brand New Crate). Does the Break in need to happen all at the same time? Or can I start it up, let it warm up and check for leak? Shut down if needed? etc...
Drive it around at varying RPMS than build up to Full Throttle, or do I have to do it all in the first start-up?
Thanks,
Looking into firing up the LS1 (Brand New Crate). Does the Break in need to happen all at the same time? Or can I start it up, let it warm up and check for leak? Shut down if needed? etc...
Drive it around at varying RPMS than build up to Full Throttle, or do I have to do it all in the first start-up?
Thanks,
#2
Staging Lane
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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I would recommend doing your initial 20-30 minute break in all at one time unless some type of failure (e.g., massive coolant/oil leak or knocking) forces you to shut down, correct the problem, and restart the process.
For the initial break in, you want to start the engine, get it to 2,000 RPM, make sure you have adequate oil pressure, and let it run over 20 minute period (I prefer 30 minutes for cast iron blocks). The main objects of this break in period are to ensure the that there aren't any leaks and the engine has an adequate supply of oil during the entire process.
After the initial break in period is finished, I would change the oil and the filter as all the lint, assembly lube, and initial wear metals should be trapped in the oil filter. After that, install the engine, set your final timing, and drive it varying the RPMs for the first 1,000-1,500 miles and another oil change. For a street engine, I won't do a full throttle run up to redline until after an additional 500 miles with the new oil. (I prefer synthetic.)
This is just my ritual for engine break in. YMMV. Remember that Chevy just fill them up with Mobil 1, fired them up for 20 minutes, and delivered the vehicle to the dealer.
For the initial break in, you want to start the engine, get it to 2,000 RPM, make sure you have adequate oil pressure, and let it run over 20 minute period (I prefer 30 minutes for cast iron blocks). The main objects of this break in period are to ensure the that there aren't any leaks and the engine has an adequate supply of oil during the entire process.
After the initial break in period is finished, I would change the oil and the filter as all the lint, assembly lube, and initial wear metals should be trapped in the oil filter. After that, install the engine, set your final timing, and drive it varying the RPMs for the first 1,000-1,500 miles and another oil change. For a street engine, I won't do a full throttle run up to redline until after an additional 500 miles with the new oil. (I prefer synthetic.)
This is just my ritual for engine break in. YMMV. Remember that Chevy just fill them up with Mobil 1, fired them up for 20 minutes, and delivered the vehicle to the dealer.
#3
I would say better be safe than sorry... do the break-in and like mentioned above make sure the engine is getting what it needs to operate safely. I have seen guys before have issues with crate engine process gone sour in a hurry, no matter what the mftr. tells you there are a number of things that can go wrong all in a matter of milliseconds. Most engines today dont really need long break-in periods, just careful observation.