Quick & easy clutch/slave question
02-28-2013, 02:32 PM
#1
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Quick & easy clutch/slave question Workin on the car now, it's A 97 z28 t56. While driving my peddle snapped and dropped limp to the floor, I removed the slave and saw it was fine, no leaks anywhere and everything seemed fine. Checked and saw the peddle had popped loose from the master rod so I'm going to pop it back on, BUT -
I have never tore into a 6 speed so I'm not sure what is normal. The clutch fork is very easy to move around with just finger strength and pushes in/out and can pop off the t-bolt pivot super easy. I want to remove the slave spacer to check inside and make sure it's tight, and to inspect the TO bearing ect, so how do you remove the slave spacer studs?
Also upon reinstalling everything, is there anything I need to do I.e. bleeding, ect after just the slave being pulled and master disconeccted from the pedal, or should I just put it all back and try it out?
Any quick help is greatly appreciated I'm out there working on it right now. Thanks!
I have never tore into a 6 speed so I'm not sure what is normal. The clutch fork is very easy to move around with just finger strength and pushes in/out and can pop off the t-bolt pivot super easy. I want to remove the slave spacer to check inside and make sure it's tight, and to inspect the TO bearing ect, so how do you remove the slave spacer studs?
Also upon reinstalling everything, is there anything I need to do I.e. bleeding, ect after just the slave being pulled and master disconeccted from the pedal, or should I just put it all back and try it out?
Any quick help is greatly appreciated I'm out there working on it right now. Thanks!
02-28-2013, 03:35 PM
#2
why do you need to remove the studs??
you could just use the 2 nuts that held the slave on you took off and put them both on one stud, jam them togeather, and then use wrench to unscrew stud from bell housing
FWIW there will be some slop in the fork after it is on the stud & TO bearing right, especially one that has some miles on it.
The fork can wear where it rides on the pivot nut/ball.
When I put a new fork and stud on it was tight but over the years it is lose and I coluld just pull the fork off TO bearing without 1st sliding tranny back some like when it was brand new
also the plastic cup at the end of the slave WANTS to be there
if you have not opened up the hydraulics by removing the slave from MC than just confirm fluid is full up top and re-install. If you did seperate them....you will need to bleed them...which is a PIA on the stock sealed units.
you could just use the 2 nuts that held the slave on you took off and put them both on one stud, jam them togeather, and then use wrench to unscrew stud from bell housing
FWIW there will be some slop in the fork after it is on the stud & TO bearing right, especially one that has some miles on it.
The fork can wear where it rides on the pivot nut/ball.
When I put a new fork and stud on it was tight but over the years it is lose and I coluld just pull the fork off TO bearing without 1st sliding tranny back some like when it was brand new
also the plastic cup at the end of the slave WANTS to be there
if you have not opened up the hydraulics by removing the slave from MC than just confirm fluid is full up top and re-install. If you did seperate them....you will need to bleed them...which is a PIA on the stock sealed units.