Auto-X set up
#1
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Auto-X set up
So I would like to set up my 02 Trans Am WS6 for Auto-X and Hill CLimbs. Should I go with the KW coil overs or Bilstein/Eibach spring combo. This will also be a daily driver. What about sways? solid or hollow? Besides a good set of summer/track tires, what other suspension mods should I consider?
Thx-
Thx-
#2
TECH Senior Member
Search the suspension section.
Sam Strano is a sponsor who has multiple natioanl autox champions in his (now sold) 4th gen Camaro. Search koni/strano setup (also fays2 watts link). If you can afford the KW coilovers that is also supposedly a great setup.
Sam Strano is a sponsor who has multiple natioanl autox champions in his (now sold) 4th gen Camaro. Search koni/strano setup (also fays2 watts link). If you can afford the KW coilovers that is also supposedly a great setup.
#4
There are also track pac setups. Can't go wrong with Strano. He is very helpful so calling him up is a viable option but make sure you do some research so you can follow when he's explaining stuff to you. Check another sponsor, "Colorado Speed" as they have some great prices. Some of the parts that will aid you with traction and handling...
Subframe connectors (Weld-in's are better than bolt-in in my opinion)
Rear LCA Relocation brackets w/ Adjustable LCAs
Torque Arm
Adjustable Pan Hard Bar
Tubular K Member (Will lighten up that front end)
Tubular front upper and lower control arms
As you mentioned, KW Coilovers
Some decently wide and light rims (I would personally do 10" wide on all four corners. It would be a little aggressive up front but with coilovers you would be able to adjust the height accordingly)
Tires are the single most important purchase though. Definitely don't skimp out on those if you are ready to drop wads of cash on your suspension.
Also look into upgrading those brakes. Do searches on the forum of people upgrading using C6 rotors and CTSV calipers (I think that's the setup) w/ some stainless steel brake lines.
I know I didn't cover everything but this is definitely a start to help your ride handle like a champ.
Have fun and keep us posted.
Subframe connectors (Weld-in's are better than bolt-in in my opinion)
Rear LCA Relocation brackets w/ Adjustable LCAs
Torque Arm
Adjustable Pan Hard Bar
Tubular K Member (Will lighten up that front end)
Tubular front upper and lower control arms
As you mentioned, KW Coilovers
Some decently wide and light rims (I would personally do 10" wide on all four corners. It would be a little aggressive up front but with coilovers you would be able to adjust the height accordingly)
Tires are the single most important purchase though. Definitely don't skimp out on those if you are ready to drop wads of cash on your suspension.
Also look into upgrading those brakes. Do searches on the forum of people upgrading using C6 rotors and CTSV calipers (I think that's the setup) w/ some stainless steel brake lines.
I know I didn't cover everything but this is definitely a start to help your ride handle like a champ.
Have fun and keep us posted.
#5
TECH Senior Member
There are also track pac setups. Can't go wrong with Strano. He is very helpful so calling him up is a viable option but make sure you do some research so you can follow when he's explaining stuff to you. Check another sponsor, "Colorado Speed" as they have some great prices. Some of the parts that will aid you with traction and handling...
Subframe connectors (Weld-in's are better than bolt-in in my opinion)
Rear LCA Relocation brackets w/ Adjustable LCAs
Torque Arm
Rear LCA Relocation brackets w/ Adjustable LCAs
Torque Arm
Tubular K Member (Will lighten up that front end)
Tubular front upper and lower control arms
Tubular front upper and lower control arms
Also with the k-member make sure to go with one strong enough (like UMI RR kmember), many of the drag ones have broken from simple street driving.
As you mentioned, KW Coilovers
Some decently wide and light rims (I would personally do 10" wide on all four corners. It would be a little aggressive up front but with coilovers you would be able to adjust the height accordingly)
Some decently wide and light rims (I would personally do 10" wide on all four corners. It would be a little aggressive up front but with coilovers you would be able to adjust the height accordingly)
#6
I would avoid "track packs" as most of them are geared toward drag racing and give you a bunch of parts that you either don't need, or can hurt handling. Basically avoid most any drag parts all together, as most of them are not strong enough for road racing and/or will hurt handling all together.
These parts here for example can be completely skipped and save you money. I have them personally and they do little to nothing for handling. Relocation brackets also can hurt handling when using the lower hole by changing the rear roll center possibly causing snap oversteer.
Parts that should be bought last/later as the biggest differences will be seen from shocks, springs and swaybars.
Also with the k-member make sure to go with one strong enough (like UMI RR kmember), many of the drag ones have broken from simple street driving.
You can run 17x11s all around with very little modification (with the right offsets). This is what many of the auto-x guys do with these cars.
These parts here for example can be completely skipped and save you money. I have them personally and they do little to nothing for handling. Relocation brackets also can hurt handling when using the lower hole by changing the rear roll center possibly causing snap oversteer.
Parts that should be bought last/later as the biggest differences will be seen from shocks, springs and swaybars.
Also with the k-member make sure to go with one strong enough (like UMI RR kmember), many of the drag ones have broken from simple street driving.
You can run 17x11s all around with very little modification (with the right offsets). This is what many of the auto-x guys do with these cars.
Thanks for all of the insight. Still learning how to make these cars turn well. I used to have a '11 Stang with upgraded rear lca's, panhard bar, panhard bar brace and coilovers and it handled pretty damn well. No wheel hop. My WS6 has tons of wheel hop. I was under the impression that rear lca's, sfc's and a strong torque arm would cure that...guess not?
Either way, thanks for the input and sorry for the inaccurate info, op.