Buying and ls1 that has been sitting?
#1
Staging Lane
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Buying and ls1 that has been sitting?
I may have an opportunity to by my dad's old SGM after getting rid of my car. The car is a '98 SGM m6. My dream f-body. 40k miles hasn't been driven since '06. What should I look out for?
#3
TECH Regular
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1) Dead battery is almost a given if it has sat unmaintained. You'll need a new one. Also check over the entire car for animal damage like rats nest, chewed wires, etc.
2) Old gas is the next problem if he didn't put any stabilizer in the tank, hell even if he did that's really old and ethanol will separate out of the gas. Drain the tank and put fresh gas in there and a new filter. You can use the fuel pump to drain the tank via the valve on the fuel rail; this will also tell if the fuel pump is good. Some Seafoam in the tank with the fresh gas will help clean the injectors. ALSO: `98s have a steel gas tank, if the tank wasn't full, maybe even if it was, there a good chance for rust. Look for leaks and smell for gas when you refill it.
3) New oil and filter WILL be needed before really running the motor. I personally would change it before trying to fire it up and definitely prefill the filter. I'd also replace the air filter. The PCV system will be dry rotted, get some fuel line and rebuild.
4) Check belts for dry rot. Check tires for dry rot and flat spotting. You'll probably want to replace them soon after for reliability. Check spark plug wires for dry rot, again you'll probably want to replace them and plugs soon. Check ALL fluids and plan on flush and refilling (soon if it were me).
5) fix all the other stuff that pop up after you get it running.
That cars been outside for 7 years unmaintained, not fired up, that's just begging for bugs (both literally and figurative). It's also a 15 year old car, there's going to be problems with just that. I honestly would keep the 2002 unless you just must have a manual, and then I'd look at conversions or other cars.
2) Old gas is the next problem if he didn't put any stabilizer in the tank, hell even if he did that's really old and ethanol will separate out of the gas. Drain the tank and put fresh gas in there and a new filter. You can use the fuel pump to drain the tank via the valve on the fuel rail; this will also tell if the fuel pump is good. Some Seafoam in the tank with the fresh gas will help clean the injectors. ALSO: `98s have a steel gas tank, if the tank wasn't full, maybe even if it was, there a good chance for rust. Look for leaks and smell for gas when you refill it.
3) New oil and filter WILL be needed before really running the motor. I personally would change it before trying to fire it up and definitely prefill the filter. I'd also replace the air filter. The PCV system will be dry rotted, get some fuel line and rebuild.
4) Check belts for dry rot. Check tires for dry rot and flat spotting. You'll probably want to replace them soon after for reliability. Check spark plug wires for dry rot, again you'll probably want to replace them and plugs soon. Check ALL fluids and plan on flush and refilling (soon if it were me).
5) fix all the other stuff that pop up after you get it running.
That cars been outside for 7 years unmaintained, not fired up, that's just begging for bugs (both literally and figurative). It's also a 15 year old car, there's going to be problems with just that. I honestly would keep the 2002 unless you just must have a manual, and then I'd look at conversions or other cars.
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I agree with much of your list, other than this. I wouldn't automatically expect the PCV system to be dry rotted on a 40k mile car, even though it's 15 years old. My '98 is the same age, has even less mileage, and the PCV system is still fine. Granted, mine has been stored indoors, but it's not a climate controlled garage. Engine heat from operation of the car is far more likely to deteriorate this system than just sitting at ambient temps.
I wouldn't worry about taking this system apart unless there is evidence of a vacuum leak once you get the car running.
Also, if you really just want the M6, then why not just swap transmissions between the two cars and then sell the the higher mileage '98? Having a donor car is half the battle when it comes to a trans swap. Or maybe you prefer the color and SAP of the '98?
I wouldn't worry about taking this system apart unless there is evidence of a vacuum leak once you get the car running.
Also, if you really just want the M6, then why not just swap transmissions between the two cars and then sell the the higher mileage '98? Having a donor car is half the battle when it comes to a trans swap. Or maybe you prefer the color and SAP of the '98?
#5
Staging Lane
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I agree with much of your list, other than this. I wouldn't automatically expect the PCV system to be dry rotted on a 40k mile car, even though it's 15 years old. My '98 is the same age, has even less mileage, and the PCV system is still fine. Granted, mine has been stored indoors, but it's not a climate controlled garage. Engine heat from operation of the car is far more likely to deteriorate this system than just sitting at ambient temps.
I wouldn't worry about taking this system apart unless there is evidence of a vacuum leak once you get the car running.
Also, if you really just want the M6, then why not just swap transmissions between the two cars and then sell the the higher mileage '98? Having a donor car is half the battle when it comes to a trans swap. Or maybe you prefer the color and SAP of the '98?
I wouldn't worry about taking this system apart unless there is evidence of a vacuum leak once you get the car running.
Also, if you really just want the M6, then why not just swap transmissions between the two cars and then sell the the higher mileage '98? Having a donor car is half the battle when it comes to a trans swap. Or maybe you prefer the color and SAP of the '98?
#6
What ever you do DON"T just try to start it. I would turn the engine with a socket on the crank and be sure its free. Pull all the spark plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder then turn it .
I would disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rail and run the fuel pump to completely empty the tank. If it comes out looking ok(IT WON"T ) replace the filter and put new fuel in it.
I would drain the engine oil and filter then prime the oil system by filling the filter before putting it on and removing the IGN relay then turn the engine over until you see some pressure on the gauge.
After sitting that long ALL the seals EVERY WHERE are going to be stuck to the shafts they ride on. If you want to try and save them rotate everything slowly. ALL the oil in everything should be replaced.
The fuel is going to be NASTY unless it was preserved with something. I'd be prepared to replace the tank with one from a salvage yard.
I would disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rail and run the fuel pump to completely empty the tank. If it comes out looking ok(IT WON"T ) replace the filter and put new fuel in it.
I would drain the engine oil and filter then prime the oil system by filling the filter before putting it on and removing the IGN relay then turn the engine over until you see some pressure on the gauge.
After sitting that long ALL the seals EVERY WHERE are going to be stuck to the shafts they ride on. If you want to try and save them rotate everything slowly. ALL the oil in everything should be replaced.
The fuel is going to be NASTY unless it was preserved with something. I'd be prepared to replace the tank with one from a salvage yard.
#7
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7 years in AZ weather will be no problem IMO. Sounds like an exciting prospect for ownership. This isn't like buying a 40 year old car that has sat during cold winters. Definitely check for mice and nests though. That can be a smelly situation. Good advice about changing ALL the fluids and I certainly agree about the gas situation. That tank needs to be drained first, then a new fuel filter installed. Once you get fresh fuel running through those lines, along with all the fluids, you should be good to go. I hope the paint is OK. Good luck!!
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#8
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7 years in AZ weather will be no problem IMO. Sounds like an exciting prospect for ownership. This isn't like buying a 40 year old car that has sat during cold winters. Definitely check for mice and nests though. That can be a smelly situation. Good advice about changing ALL the fluids and I certainly agree about the gas situation. That tank needs to be drained first, then a new fuel filter installed. Once you get fresh fuel running through those lines, along with all the fluids, you should be good to go. I hope the paint is OK. Good luck!!
#9
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I agree with much of your list, other than this. I wouldn't automatically expect the PCV system to be dry rotted on a 40k mile car, even though it's 15 years old. My '98 is the same age, has even less mileage, and the PCV system is still fine. Granted, mine has been stored indoors, but it's not a climate controlled garage. Engine heat from operation of the car is far more likely to deteriorate this system than just sitting at ambient temps.
I wouldn't worry about taking this system apart unless there is evidence of a vacuum leak once you get the car running.
Also, if you really just want the M6, then why not just swap transmissions between the two cars and then sell the the higher mileage '98? Having a donor car is half the battle when it comes to a trans swap. Or maybe you prefer the color and SAP of the '98?
I wouldn't worry about taking this system apart unless there is evidence of a vacuum leak once you get the car running.
Also, if you really just want the M6, then why not just swap transmissions between the two cars and then sell the the higher mileage '98? Having a donor car is half the battle when it comes to a trans swap. Or maybe you prefer the color and SAP of the '98?
ETA: since it's probably been dry with no rain the paint is probably ok assuming there's no big dings or scratches. Probably nothing a good wash, clay bar, polish and wax couldn't solve.
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My `02 had a lot of rubber items that dry rotted before "their time" but I didn't think about that car being in AZ vs here in LA. I think my car was in the mid50-60K range when I had to start replacing PCV hoses because of cracks and vacuum leaks, and my car sat/was a week end car for several years under a carport.
My '98 sits most of the time, now 15 years old with 16k miles. The entire PCV system is original with no issues at all. The car does sit inside, but the garage is not climate controlled so temp and humidity change drastically from season to season here in Chicago.