LS1POWR

iTrader: (1)

Heres the deal 00 SS. Last summer i replaced the stock clutch that i exploded at the drag strip with a Ram HD clutch and pressure plate,brand gm slave,brand new gm master cylinder,and brand new gm throwout bearing. an i also had the stock flywheel resurfaced .010"
I used the .160" ram shim that came in the clutch box, put the car together and used it for the season only putting about 1500 mles on th car, with this set up it was difficult to put the car into any gear without force and the car slightly moving forward, and the clutch engagement was very close to the floor. over the past three days ive been playing around and added a .120" shim on top of the .160" with that the car wouldnt move with the clutch let out unless u rev the engine. took the .160" shim out and left the .120" in and the car would grind hard going into gear and i stopped there. had another shim made today at my buddys machineshop. i took the .160 and added half of the .120 and installed a new shim of .220 With this shim the clutch engages way high at the top of the pedal travel but i can get enough bite to smoke the tires, an its very drivable but im debating on taking the shim out an having it machined about .025 What do you all think of my issue

stevieturbo

Buy a clutch that actually fits, and forget all this shim bullshit ?

A correct clutch for the application should need no shim. And as a hydraulic setup is largely self adjusting...again if all is well and bled correctly...no shim should ever be needed.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I would be worried running that much of a shim as you could be pre-loading the pressure plate and causing it to wear prematurely. Plus it may not be able fully clamp providing maximum grip. I would get the clutch manufacturers opinion on it though as they would know their product best.