Well I'm an idiot... I think I solved my problem.
10-06-2013, 05:42 PM
#1
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Well I'm an idiot... I think I solved my problem. UPDATE: in response to my thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...ice-video.html
Whoever said to check to make sure my throttle was opening all the way... you were right... Its funny my car ran a 14.18 @ 98 on the front barrels!! Well mostly... After I had a buddy come over and hold the pedal to the floor I found that the secondaries of my Q-jet were only opening less than 3/8s of an inch!!!!
Now it will rev to 6200 like no tomorrow.. but I also found It badly needs the springs to be upgraded.... before after we adjusted the rev limiter we were content with its performance... until I ran it at the track...
Now I need to change the springs and adjust the rev limiter once again because it wants to keep pulling!!
Probably explains why my 60fts were garbage... (partly)
More importantly now that the throttle is wide open the transmission is getting correct line pressure and the 1-2 WOT shift is now firm as hell versus the typical th2004r 1-2 slid into gear..
God I feel like a moron... Now I gotta see what it does with headers and new springs..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...ice-video.html
Whoever said to check to make sure my throttle was opening all the way... you were right... Its funny my car ran a 14.18 @ 98 on the front barrels!! Well mostly... After I had a buddy come over and hold the pedal to the floor I found that the secondaries of my Q-jet were only opening less than 3/8s of an inch!!!!
Now it will rev to 6200 like no tomorrow.. but I also found It badly needs the springs to be upgraded.... before after we adjusted the rev limiter we were content with its performance... until I ran it at the track...
Now I need to change the springs and adjust the rev limiter once again because it wants to keep pulling!!
Probably explains why my 60fts were garbage... (partly)
More importantly now that the throttle is wide open the transmission is getting correct line pressure and the 1-2 WOT shift is now firm as hell versus the typical th2004r 1-2 slid into gear..
God I feel like a moron... Now I gotta see what it does with headers and new springs..
10-06-2013, 08:43 PM
#4
Always the simplest things . I will give an example of something that happened to me to show" simple first". Close to 30 yrs ago, I took a job at a used car dealer as a parts changer/ simple repair guy. First day on the job, the owner tells me to trouble shoot a Duster w a slant 6 that was running like crap. All he told me was the guy before me changed the plugs. I fumbled with the dist. , replaced points, plug wires, tweaked on the carb...Nothing helped enough to get the thing running decent. I fought the POS of 3 days ! I finally pulled a plug to see if it was loading up with fuel, the plugs were smoked ! The electrodes were burned off of every one! I changed the plugs and it was the best running slant 6 I ever drove ( I know, Not saying much, LOL). I thought the plugs were the issue from the start, but because the boss man said they were all good ,I didn't check them.
Never assume anything when trouble shooting a car and always look at the simplest thing first, even if you are sure its OK.
Never assume anything when trouble shooting a car and always look at the simplest thing first, even if you are sure its OK.
10-06-2013, 09:10 PM
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The General built my trans!! Its a stock BQ code Grand National slush box that is still holding together...Apparently the TV cables wasn't being pulled far enough to allow for the proper line pressure... its weird but its how it ended up... 1-2 is a nice snap now...
10-07-2013, 07:23 AM
#6
That is bad juju for a 2004R ! It can turn that Generals soldier into a piece of history pretty quickly. I had no idea how important the right TV adjustment was till I started running the 2004Rs. The way most instructions are told on TV adjustment, they assume the proper geometry on the TV adapter. That can be a costly assumption ! In order for the trans to get proper line pressure, the TV plunger in the valve body needs to be in certain locations at several different points at different throttle positions. Not just fully depressed at WOT like you read all the time. I had to build my own adapter to get the proper geometry on mine, and I had one that was sold to me as THE adapter to work with Holley style linkage. It was way off.
At idle, the plunger needs to be at .840 sticking out of the valve body to line the proper ports up inside the valve body. At full throttle the plunger needs to reach full depression at the same time. If this isn't done ,the trans can have low pressure causing the band and clutches to burn, OR have so much pressure that it holds a given gear too long and shift too hard, which will destroy the trans too. If all is set right, the trans will shift at the proper time and have the ideal pressure for all throttle positions. It is also crucial that the line pressure increase the instant that the throttle is touched. If it dosnt do this, it will burn the trans up in very few miles. A lot of people believe the 2004R burns up because of full throttle miss adjustment, but it is actually the tip in light throttle driving that slips the clutches and kills the trans.
This is off topic a little, but I thought it might be a good time to share some of what Ive learned in the last couple years and maybe save a trans or two for some of the guys on here doing retrofits with LS carbed engines and the little 2004R.
At idle, the plunger needs to be at .840 sticking out of the valve body to line the proper ports up inside the valve body. At full throttle the plunger needs to reach full depression at the same time. If this isn't done ,the trans can have low pressure causing the band and clutches to burn, OR have so much pressure that it holds a given gear too long and shift too hard, which will destroy the trans too. If all is set right, the trans will shift at the proper time and have the ideal pressure for all throttle positions. It is also crucial that the line pressure increase the instant that the throttle is touched. If it dosnt do this, it will burn the trans up in very few miles. A lot of people believe the 2004R burns up because of full throttle miss adjustment, but it is actually the tip in light throttle driving that slips the clutches and kills the trans.
This is off topic a little, but I thought it might be a good time to share some of what Ive learned in the last couple years and maybe save a trans or two for some of the guys on here doing retrofits with LS carbed engines and the little 2004R.
10-07-2013, 06:14 PM
#7
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That is bad juju for a 2004R ! It can turn that Generals soldier into a piece of history pretty quickly. I had no idea how important the right TV adjustment was till I started running the 2004Rs. The way most instructions are told on TV adjustment, they assume the proper geometry on the TV adapter. That can be a costly assumption ! In order for the trans to get proper line pressure, the TV plunger in the valve body needs to be in certain locations at several different points at different throttle positions. Not just fully depressed at WOT like you read all the time. I had to build my own adapter to get the proper geometry on mine, and I had one that was sold to me as THE adapter to work with Holley style linkage. It was way off.
At idle, the plunger needs to be at .840 sticking out of the valve body to line the proper ports up inside the valve body. At full throttle the plunger needs to reach full depression at the same time. If this isn't done ,the trans can have low pressure causing the band and clutches to burn, OR have so much pressure that it holds a given gear too long and shift too hard, which will destroy the trans too. If all is set right, the trans will shift at the proper time and have the ideal pressure for all throttle positions. It is also crucial that the line pressure increase the instant that the throttle is touched. If it dosnt do this, it will burn the trans up in very few miles. A lot of people believe the 2004R burns up because of full throttle miss adjustment, but it is actually the tip in light throttle driving that slips the clutches and kills the trans.
This is off topic a little, but I thought it might be a good time to share some of what Ive learned in the last couple years and maybe save a trans or two for some of the guys on here doing retrofits with LS carbed engines and the little 2004R.
At idle, the plunger needs to be at .840 sticking out of the valve body to line the proper ports up inside the valve body. At full throttle the plunger needs to reach full depression at the same time. If this isn't done ,the trans can have low pressure causing the band and clutches to burn, OR have so much pressure that it holds a given gear too long and shift too hard, which will destroy the trans too. If all is set right, the trans will shift at the proper time and have the ideal pressure for all throttle positions. It is also crucial that the line pressure increase the instant that the throttle is touched. If it dosnt do this, it will burn the trans up in very few miles. A lot of people believe the 2004R burns up because of full throttle miss adjustment, but it is actually the tip in light throttle driving that slips the clutches and kills the trans.
This is off topic a little, but I thought it might be a good time to share some of what Ive learned in the last couple years and maybe save a trans or two for some of the guys on here doing retrofits with LS carbed engines and the little 2004R.
O ya I've been beating on these transmissions for years... The trans shifted great on the street part throttle and all... Just never had a good 1-2 WOT... I had several other transmissions do the same thing... I wrote it off as a factory flaw...duh..... its ok.. I plan on building one of these suckers at some point lol