LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

MAP sensor & spray

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Old 03-07-2014, 02:15 PM
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Default MAP sensor & spray

What affect will N20 have on a stock tuned MAP sensor. 70 or more KPA the computer retards some timing. Just wondering how big of an effect a 50 shot would have on the MAP, O2’s, IAT. Correct me if I’m wrong more fuel would be dumping more fuel/retards timing if the MAP reads more pressure, more fuel if the O2’s reads more oxygen, and IAT will dump more fuel if it reads colder?!

The correct way of going the approach is to get a tune but that is the back pocket plan. In the meantime wondering what approach most guys go with baby shot on stock tune.
Old 03-09-2014, 06:39 PM
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Anyone? I guess sometimes trying to get information to be safe can be harder than I thought.

Anyways I appreciate the help from you guys wether it be negative, positive, or simply ignore. Just trying to learn more to be on the safe side not blowing someone else’s motor up. I eventually want to EFI tune cars for a living but for now I’m just a simple GS who wants to avoid problems down the road. Every precaution is crucial and is what I’m focusing on right now.

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Old 03-10-2014, 08:50 AM
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There are a few misconceptions to clear up.

A MAP sensor isn't "tuned". If you mean the PCM program is a stock tune, that's good.

The PCM doesn't retard timing just because MAP is above 70 kPA; some other condition would need to be present for that to happen.
Spray "on" will have no significant effect on the MAP reading; during WOT NA operation it reads 95 to 100 kPA anyway.

Mount the nozzle after the MAF and IAT sensors, and provided you have the correct fuel and nitrous jets, correct bottle and fuel pressures, your mixture will remain safe when spraying. Your system should be active only at WOT (WOT switch required), so the PCM will not make any corrections to fueling.

For a 50 shot and premium pump gas, you could run stock timing and spark plugs.
Old 03-10-2014, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtienut
There are a few misconceptions to clear up.

A MAP sensor isn't "tuned". If you mean the PCM program is a stock tune, that's good.

The PCM doesn't retard timing just because MAP is above 70 kPA; some other condition would need to be present for that to happen.
Spray "on" will have no significant effect on the MAP reading; during WOT NA operation it reads 95 to 100 kPA anyway.
Thanks for clarifying

Originally Posted by bowtienut
Mount the nozzle after the MAF and IAT sensors

Correct I mounted the nozzle on the intake elbow where there was a port on the opposite side of the IAT sensor. The problem is his intake elbow is a polished one from summit that has a separation wall that blocks any spray from conflicting with the IAT. Should I grind out that separator out of the elbow or should I leave it alone?! Reason I ask is because I had the idea that the AFR runs richer if the IAT reads colder.




Originally Posted by bowtienut
provided you have the correct fuel and nitrous jets
Fuel jet is .020 & Spray jet is .032







correct bottle and fuel pressures, your mixture will remain safe when spraying. Your system should be active only at WOT (WOT switch required), so the PCM will not make any corrections to fueling.

For a 50 shot and premium pump gas, you could run stock timing and spark plugs.[/QUOTE]

And Problem with I ran into when I hooked up the dry shot (N20 solenoid alone to the intake elbow) and sprayed it at WOT, it ran like a champ upon test drive, BUT when I hooked up the Fuel solenoid to the Schrader valve to the intake elbow and sprayed it at WOT it felt a little hesitant on the top end. It felt like it wasn’t getting enough fuel pressure at the injectors once fuel was running through the nozzle. Could this be a reason why it felt a little slower running the wet shot than it did on the dry shot?

Less fuel is running to the injectors when fuel is moving through the fuel solenoid to the nozzle on the intake. Which kind of makes me believe it ran a leaner AFR with a wet shot.

This was all done with TR6 plugs, 93 octane, 950 bottle PSI, throttle body bypass. No more spray until we check the fuel pressure. A fuel pressure gauge & sending unit is next on the list.
Old 03-11-2014, 06:30 AM
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Yes, DEFINTELY verify your fuel pressure is hanging in there.
I don't know why you would want to grind out that divider in the elbow. If you're providing fuel via the nozzle jet, then why would you want to "fool" the PCM?
BTW, the AFR doesn't run richer when the IAT reads colder. A colder reading would actually correct the indicated mass flow to a lower value, which would cause the PCM to command less fuel.
It's sounding to me like it actually ran too rich when you hooked up the fuel line. The base tune is rich to start with, and I don't know what nitrous jets you're running, but if NX, then 35 nitrous/ 20 fuel would be a 50 shot at 950/43 psi (and THAT's even on the rich side!), and you're making it even richer with only a 32 jet.
Verify fuel pressure first; if it's good, you're running rich.



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