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Tunnel Mounted vs Stock Length Torque Arms

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Old 05-24-2014, 09:28 AM
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Default Tunnel Mounted vs Stock Length Torque Arms

I'm halfway through my gear install and having some trouble with a bearing race, so I took out my torque arm for better access. And, since I'm all about efficiency, if I take something stock off the car, what better opportunity is there to put something upgraded back on the car?

I don't do much drag racing, but it does happen (maybe once a year or every other year). I don't DD the Camaro, but I'll sacrifice a little speed for being able to handle like I'm glued to the road. I've read various things on whether or not a new torque arm is even worth it if handling is even a consideration...

That all being said, there are the tunnel mounted ones and the stock length ones. All the vendors basically post the exact same descriptions for both types, but the tunnel mounted ones all boast that it removes the strain on the transmission. How much truth is there to that? I mean obviously, there is some strain on having something connected to the trans vs. not, but while I've heard tons of stories of 10 bolts breaking, I've never come across a post about a trans breaking because the torque arm was connected to it. Are there actually benefits to a tunnel mounted one? Are tunnel mounted ones really for drag only, and does it make regular driving a pain with extra vibration? If so, how bad is the vibration?

Also, if I go tunnel mounted, I'd get one with a DS loop. Do stock length ones have DS loops too? I haven't seen them. Only reason is that if I DO go to the track, some require a DS loop. While a lot of them never actually look, I'd hate to make the drive out to the track only to find that they won't clear me to race.
Old 05-24-2014, 10:08 AM
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Some people will say otherwise but the floor in the area where a tunnel mount torque arm goes is not very strong. WRD1972 ripped the spot welds and cracked the floor on his car. Do a search, his is not a isolated event.
If you seach you will find some posts about people breaking their tailshaft housings with trans mounted TA in drag racing situations. I just installed a TA relocation transmission crossmember with the stock TA and am happy with it. The power is transfered to the ground more effectively, there is less of a rubbery feeling on the shifts.
A tunnel mount setup is cheaper than the comparable long TA and new TA relocation transmission crossmember.
As far as driveshaft loops, with the stock type long TA you can buy a stand alone loop that bolts where the chassis stiffener is (same place a tunnel TA mounts). I have a Lakewood one and like it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-18022/overview/
Old 05-25-2014, 05:42 PM
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Long/stock length T/A is better suited for DD and autocross. A short style is better for drag racing.

The short T/A changes the leverage point which helps increase the amount of force to the rear tires. On the flip side of that under hard braking you can get brake hop in the back of the car because of the same leverage point.

I am running a UMI long T/A with their relocation bracket that attaches the T/A to the trans cross member. It has adjustable instant center adjustments on it. The middle hole is stock I/C. You can run the I/C in the very top hole which helps with traction but does not effect braking.

I hope this helps answer your question.
Old 05-27-2014, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
I am running a UMI long T/A with their relocation bracket that attaches the T/A to the trans cross member. It has adjustable instant center adjustments on it. The middle hole is stock I/C. You can run the I/C in the very top hole which helps with traction but does not effect braking.
This is the setup I'll be going with for my next suspension modification.



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