gordonfan24

Hey there, newbie here. Nice forum. I just bought this car a few days ago for a song (already starting to regret it) lol. Anyway, the PO had issues with the VATS (I think). It's a manual trans BTW. It would not crank when I turned the key so I put my remote starter on it and it turned over fine. Had a friend hop in and turn the key and I hit the switch, it started right up. Let it run for a few seconds and turned it off, now when I try to repeat the process, it won't do anything. I've changed the lock cylinder and ignition switch. I read the ohms on the key and it was 680, that corresponds to key 3. I went to Radio Shaft and bought a 680 resistor and soldered it inline on the body side of the circuit. I'm stumped as of right now but I'm leaning toward the BCM possibly? Another weird thing that's happening (or not happening) is the OBD II dash port has NO power. I have no idea what the PO did to this car except for it having aftermarket injectors and a cold air intake. It seems like it a security issue but the only light on the dash after a few seconds is the 'check gauges' light.

Also, it looks like the PO replaced the BCM with a salvage yard part. If so, is it possible the replacement BCM requires a different ohm resistor chip and he didn't realize it? If so, couldn't I go and buy the multipack (all 15 ohm variation resistors) and try each separately using alligator clips to see if one works? Or is there a PCM or BCM reset time, like I'd need to unhook the battery for 10 minutes in between testing each resistor?

gordonfan24

Problem solved.

hrcslam

What was the fix?

gordonfan24

So after taking every fuse out of the block, I removed the block through the opening and did a careful visual inspection. What I found was disturbing. The location where the 10 amp (IGN/PCM) fuse looked burnt on the side towards the front of the car. The PO for some reason had removed that red terminal cover box on the passenger side inner fender. The doofus had deleted the insulator box and only taped it up with electrical tape which inevitably deteriorated due to the under hood temps and had most likely contacted the inner fender. I also found incorrect amperage fuses (some higher, some lower) in the block. I'm presuming that the PO had a higher amp fuse than what was called for and it got hot before it blew. I have no idea but that seems logical in my mind, although I have been known to be wrong once or twice. The contact terminal in the fuse block had therefore lost it's tensile strength and spread apart and that's what was causing the intermittent power to the ignition and PCM. I took a pair of micro needle nose and closed it up to where it looked like the other non-affected terminals. I used my infra red thermometer after running the car for 20 miles or so. The temps were nominal. Previously, when I just discovered the short/bad connection, the fuse got fairly warm 140 degrees or so. It was hot to the touch. That issue no longer exists and the car runs great. Besides the tail light harness needing updating with a late model harness and a rear suspension issue and other electrical issues........things are looking up. LOL It's always something! I enjoy diagnosing and troubleshooting, it's challenging and rewarding. I'm going to start a couple more threads now, HAHA!!

hrcslam

Nice, good find. Thanks for sharing.