JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I have the option to powder coat the rearend I'm looking at but was wondering if simply painting it would be okay? What have you guys done to keep the rust off and keep the rearends looking good?

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

I used VHT satin black Epoxy paint on my S60, it's been durable and looks good. I've also used Rustoleum satin enamel on a 10 bolt and that paint has held up good too. The drawback to using enamel is the slow drying time especially when it's cold out like now.
Pic of the S60 with VHT epoxy paint:

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Paint here, seems to be holding up pretty well.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

That VHT satin black looks really good.

And that's good to hear the paint is holding up well. Obviously, the powder coating would be best, but the price difference is eh.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, The VHT still looks that nice with 2 summers worth of driving on it, I park the car in the winter. These rears cost so much as it is I didn't feel the need to spend $$ on powder coating too. Here's a link to the VHT paint I used, p/n SP652.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/epoxypaint/

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Yeah $10 for a can vs $200 for powder coating... The VHT wins.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

scuff it up , get it wet and let it rust a little and por-15 it . Did that on my chrysler 8 3/4 that was in my 85 trans am .It held up great .

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

POR15,up here in the rust belt with winter salt,rust is a problem.
I clean,degrease,remove heavy rust layers.

droksformula

iTrader: (18)

I used a spray can of etching primer, then sprayed automotive primer, then black, then clear out of a spray gun, came out Soooo nice!

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

POR15 was used on the one shown here too.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-12-...structions.htm Bob

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

POR15 looks like a good choice as well. My 10-bolt isn't even rusted. The joy of living in Florida. I just wanted something that looked good

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

POR15 bonds with the rust layer/or natural oxide layer to form a coating that won't chip from road crap like paint will. Also resistant to solvents and oils. Allow a full day to 'set'.
Impossible to remove once set,I've still got remnants on my hands from since August. Easily removable with lacquer thinner or acetone if immediately removed.

HISS

iTrader: (52)

Por15 is great but a little pricey. I used a oil based tractor paint. Takes a while to cure but it's hard to scratch and a little less glossy than por15. Also since its oil base it's has anti rusting properties.

dailydriver

Yes, for a daily driven YEAR 'ROUND car, in the 'salt soup' belt, either POR 15, or the Wurth Rust Proof are the ONLY choices.
EVERYTHING else chips off and rusts immediately.

joeformula

iTrader: (11)

Powder > paint

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

A good powder coat job will last an extremely long time, I have a painted housing and I find myself touching it up every couple of years. If I ever do another housing it will be powder coated for sure as I see pictures from past customers and their powder coating has held up through years of street use. Especially local customers that see salted winters.

LS1-IROC

iTrader: (4)

Powder coat is worth every penny on a rear axle housing.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

I personally would never pay that much to have a rear powdercoated when you can rattle can it for less than $10 and have it look just as good. Hell, the son-a-bitch is up under the car anyway, so it's not going to be easy to see. Then again, I'm not made of money like a lot of guys are on here.

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

While POR15 is still tacky you can spray it with a quality chassis black paint to tone down the shine and the finish should hold up as well as POR15 itself.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Powdercoating on a rear does get chipped up from stones being thrown from the front tires, I've seen it happen many times. Bob