Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Rear cover seal is a PITA

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-06-2004, 01:10 PM
  #1  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
 
mitchntx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 6,480
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default Rear cover seal is a PITA

OK ... so what is the trick to getting this on without using some special GM designed tool?

It appears the seal is a 2 part design, an outer rubber lip/scraper and the inner portion that is heavy, yet pliable.

I deformed the inner part my first attempt. To be sure of no leaks, I decided to get a new seal and try again. The next try will have the motor OFF the engine stand ...

I am assuming the white inner ring is like a alignment tool? Align the ring with the flange on the crank and slide the seal/cover into place?

Also, I've been told to install it dry (my engine builder) and install it with some sort of lubricant/oil (a GM tech) ... which is it?
Old 07-06-2004, 01:39 PM
  #2  
TECH Regular
 
pekkaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I put one side of the inner portion over the crank and streched the rest over with my fingers ( using both hands ) while at the same time pushing the cover in. The seal is tight enough to center the cover. I bought 2 seals right away as I suspected trouble but succeeded with the 1st attempt anyway. Maybe I was lucky...

Helms manual says install it dry.
Old 07-06-2004, 01:44 PM
  #3  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
 
1fastWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

If you don't get an answer, shoot me a PM tonite and I'll look it up in my Helms. If it's like the front seal, it's supposed to be installed dry though.
Old 07-06-2004, 02:08 PM
  #4  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
 
mitchntx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 6,480
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Thanks, guys ... I have a Helm's and that is what I read as well ... Then the GM tech told me otherwise.

Helm's is a good resource, but it also said to torque the rear brake caliper bolts to 78ft/lbs. They snap off at about 60 ... don't ask how I know ...

So, I attempt to get as much info as possible and make a decision upon consensus ...
Old 07-06-2004, 03:32 PM
  #5  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
strokedls1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Venice, Ca
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I did mine dry.
Old 07-06-2004, 04:08 PM
  #6  
I can shift faster than you.
iTrader: (21)
 
Jason99T/A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I always put a little oil on the OD of the seal, not any on the ID where the crank actually contacts. I have always used the GM service tools to install them.

The white plastic piece is just there for shipping so the seal does not get damaged. You can toss that in the trash.

Jason
Old 07-06-2004, 04:31 PM
  #7  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (6)
 
2001CamaroGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ USA
Posts: 4,766
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

When I put mine on the crank, I first put some oil on the crank AND the seal so they would slide over eachother better. Then I just started with one side and worked it on with my fingers. After about 5 mins of bitching/swearing/screaming at it I finally got it on and it does not seem to be leaking (after a few startups the flywheel is still dry so....).




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:57 PM.