TSP 224/.581/112 vs TR 224/.563/112
07-06-2004, 09:17 PM
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TSP 224/.581/112 vs TR 224/.563/112 OK,
TR224 is a proven cam. 400rwhp is quite possible with full bolt-on's (MAF, LT Headers, ls6 intake, lid, exhaust, and tune)
TR224 has a lower than TSP224 lift, yet their lobes are more aggresive.
My question is which cam can produce more peak HP, and which one is more likely to eat-up the valve springs faster. The one with higher lift, or the one with more aggresive lobes ?
Ultimately, how do those two cams compare ?
TR224 is a proven cam. 400rwhp is quite possible with full bolt-on's (MAF, LT Headers, ls6 intake, lid, exhaust, and tune)
TR224 has a lower than TSP224 lift, yet their lobes are more aggresive.
My question is which cam can produce more peak HP, and which one is more likely to eat-up the valve springs faster. The one with higher lift, or the one with more aggresive lobes ?
Ultimately, how do those two cams compare ?
07-07-2004, 12:21 AM
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Very little difference between the two running stock heads. The higher lift of the TSP cam combined with heads that flow well at that lift might produce a tad more power than the TR224 then. Otherwise go with the better priced version of the cams.
07-07-2004, 07:27 AM
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mine runs fairly well even though it hasn't been tuned. If I had to do it over I would install the heads with the cam. The car is very streetable and still gets pretty good mileage ( accordingly how I drive) otherwise a good street set up 
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07-07-2004, 11:00 AM
#8
Since when a LS1 owner is concerned with peak numbers? I thought that's a vtec domain 
There are many other factors to think about than just peak 'internet/bench racing' numbers.
Tuning will make most difference in the numbers anyway.
Reliability is the most important. If you want peak numbers, then go with some 'spring buster' cam, and you'll get the nicest numbers, but you'll also spend a lot of time working on your car, which while sitting in your garage puts out the flattest torque curve ever-- 0 all across the board.
Adam, you don't race, you just want a very nice weekend toy. For that I'd rather go with low-lift, lots of advanced timing (whether in the cam or on the chain) for drivability, as you're not going to be 'living above 5krpm' like I do on my weekends. Plus, you have a M6, which makes you move through the gears faster anyway.
Look through the CamGuide in jrp's sig. It's absolutely brilliant, there are graphs of 112LSA vs 114LSA, cam spec sheets, lists of parameters of a lot of different cams, etc. There's a lot of other info normally not being discussed, like lobes and how to find out which lobe a cam has based on lifts. GOOD STUFF, read it, then read it again.
I wouldn't go with anything too aggressive. You don't wanna beat up on your pristine SS. What I would really do if i want an occassional 400rwhp, i'd just get a 100 shot Normally, I am very anti-nos, but for your application it works perfect. Cheap, occasional, does not beat up on components when out cruising for ice cream with your girly. And it's easy to de-mod, if you want to take it for a a warranty repair.
If you just want it to sound like a muscle car (and it does already with your Loudmouth), just get a friggin cutout.
Remember, numbers are just that. Especially on dynos. Double especially by the time they get posted on the internet. Do some acceleration tests on the highway in 3rd or 4th, free of traction problems. Then you'll see what matters. If you just want your sig to say 400rwhp, just put it in there, everyone else does it anyway
There are many other factors to think about than just peak 'internet/bench racing' numbers.
Tuning will make most difference in the numbers anyway.
Reliability is the most important. If you want peak numbers, then go with some 'spring buster' cam, and you'll get the nicest numbers, but you'll also spend a lot of time working on your car, which while sitting in your garage puts out the flattest torque curve ever-- 0 all across the board.
Adam, you don't race, you just want a very nice weekend toy. For that I'd rather go with low-lift, lots of advanced timing (whether in the cam or on the chain) for drivability, as you're not going to be 'living above 5krpm' like I do on my weekends. Plus, you have a M6, which makes you move through the gears faster anyway.
Look through the CamGuide in jrp's sig. It's absolutely brilliant, there are graphs of 112LSA vs 114LSA, cam spec sheets, lists of parameters of a lot of different cams, etc. There's a lot of other info normally not being discussed, like lobes and how to find out which lobe a cam has based on lifts. GOOD STUFF, read it, then read it again.
I wouldn't go with anything too aggressive. You don't wanna beat up on your pristine SS. What I would really do if i want an occassional 400rwhp, i'd just get a 100 shot
Normally, I am very anti-nos, but for your application it works perfect. Cheap, occasional, does not beat up on components when out cruising for ice cream with your girly. And it's easy to de-mod, if you want to take it for a a warranty repair. If you just want it to sound like a muscle car (and it does already with your Loudmouth), just get a friggin cutout.
Remember, numbers are just that. Especially on dynos. Double especially by the time they get posted on the internet. Do some acceleration tests on the highway in 3rd or 4th, free of traction problems. Then you'll see what matters. If you just want your sig to say 400rwhp, just put it in there, everyone else does it anyway
07-07-2004, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
If you just want your sig to say 400rwhp, just put it in there, everyone else does it anyway
Which is a typical RICER comment BTW.
You own a Formula (Or maybe you just put that there)
, you should know better than to say that. LS1's do not DREAM about 400rwhp, we apply it to the pavement.
07-07-2004, 11:42 AM
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I still want a 400rwhp N/A car. But I need to find a nice balance... TR224 has aggresive lobes, and TSP224R cam has more lift... Personaly I think both cams will yield 400rwhp with bolt-ons.
Furthermore, with TSP cam, because of less aggresive lobes springs will last me a bit longer. I don't mind changing springs every 20K miles or so....with Patriot Gold Duals, or Crane duals they will last past those 20K miles. I know the risks associated with it. Bottom line: **** breaks if you play with it....
Thanks for all the replies.
P.S RedHardSupra really does own a formula....nice one too :-)
Furthermore, with TSP cam, because of less aggresive lobes springs will last me a bit longer. I don't mind changing springs every 20K miles or so....with Patriot Gold Duals, or Crane duals they will last past those 20K miles. I know the risks associated with it. Bottom line: **** breaks if you play with it....
Thanks for all the replies.
P.S RedHardSupra really does own a formula....nice one too :-)
