Ticking ... Time to replace stock lifters?
10-03-2004, 03:58 PM
#1
Ticking ... Time to replace stock lifters? First a little history. I spun two main bearings on my previous block and bought a used built shortblock. We chose to use the lifters which came with the '3000mi' built block so we wouldn't have to worry about contamination from the old lifters.
So now I've acquired a loud metallic ticking in the last day or so. I think I've heard the sound for much longer, but others who have listened to it couldn't hear it. At any rate, using a long screwdriver on the valve covers and the front of the block we were able to isolate the sound. The sound in general seems to be coming from below the intake manifold. It's not coming from the bottom end, though due to the pitch.
The used block was assembled on an engine stand (meaning the heads, oilpan, etc) so we know we didn't screw up the o-ring. Besides, oil-pressure is great with the ported pump. We installed brand new TR6's with an unmodified gap when the longblock was assembled. Compression is supposed to be around 11.25 so Thunder recommended the TR6's.
The tinking sound is a high-pitched metallic sound, and seems to be loudest around 3000-3200 RPM. Definitely noticeable at idle. No misfires, no SES's. I just had it on a dyno about 150 miles ago and even with a 12.1 AFR at peak HP, it still made 410rwhp around 6000RPM.
Also, the cam which came in the built block is supposedly an ARE 228/228 .575/.575 cam, unknown ramp style or base circle. My previous cam was a 218/226 527/535 Comp Cam from 4-5 years ago so I don't think it was even an XE-style ramp. I continued using the hardened 7.4" pushrods from my old cam. Should I buy a different length for this cam assuming the base circle is different?
I've got a mini roadrace next weekend and would prefer to drive my own car. Would it be simplest to replace the plugs, lifters and pushrods in one fell swoop? I just don't have a lot of time for troubleshooting, and I don't want to be waiting for parts.
So now I've acquired a loud metallic ticking in the last day or so. I think I've heard the sound for much longer, but others who have listened to it couldn't hear it. At any rate, using a long screwdriver on the valve covers and the front of the block we were able to isolate the sound. The sound in general seems to be coming from below the intake manifold. It's not coming from the bottom end, though due to the pitch.
The used block was assembled on an engine stand (meaning the heads, oilpan, etc) so we know we didn't screw up the o-ring. Besides, oil-pressure is great with the ported pump. We installed brand new TR6's with an unmodified gap when the longblock was assembled. Compression is supposed to be around 11.25 so Thunder recommended the TR6's.
The tinking sound is a high-pitched metallic sound, and seems to be loudest around 3000-3200 RPM. Definitely noticeable at idle. No misfires, no SES's. I just had it on a dyno about 150 miles ago and even with a 12.1 AFR at peak HP, it still made 410rwhp around 6000RPM.
Also, the cam which came in the built block is supposedly an ARE 228/228 .575/.575 cam, unknown ramp style or base circle. My previous cam was a 218/226 527/535 Comp Cam from 4-5 years ago so I don't think it was even an XE-style ramp. I continued using the hardened 7.4" pushrods from my old cam. Should I buy a different length for this cam assuming the base circle is different?
I've got a mini roadrace next weekend and would prefer to drive my own car. Would it be simplest to replace the plugs, lifters and pushrods in one fell swoop? I just don't have a lot of time for troubleshooting, and I don't want to be waiting for parts.
