Rocker Arm Recommendations
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Rocker Arm Recommendations
First off, I know this subject has been beat to death but unfortunately my searches haven't yielded any solid information.
Currently I am running the stock rocker arms, Patriot Gold Double Springs (good to .650 lift I believe), stock LS1 heads, and a TSP 231/237 .596/.591. Rev limiter is set to 7000 and I am shifting at 6800rpm N/A and 6600rpm on the Nitrous. The motor will pull hard all the way to 7000rpm.
The valvetrain has been obviously noisey since the cam install, but I have noticed lately a clicking/ticking sound that has been gradually getting louder over time. Sound seems to be isolated just under the valve cover over the #6 cylinder. My only conclusion is one of the rocker arms has some slop in it causing the sound. (I used the 5/8 rubber hose method. Stick one end to your ear and the other end on the block/valve cover/water to isolate the sound.)
The motor is not down on power. Has been consistantly running in the 94-95mph range N/A and 102-103 range on nitrous. I have heard the fulcrum on the stock rockers will loosen over time and eventually start puking needle bearings. We haven't found any needle bearings in the oil pan, but I believe its only a matter of time.
I've read a few times that some of the heavier aftermarket rocker arms can cause valve float and I don't understand if it is in fact because the rocker arms are too heavy or if it is improper valve spring choice.
What rocker arms have yielded the best results for most of you? Are adjustable rocker arm neccessary? Are people still having problems with the Yella Terra or Harland Sharp? Harland Sharp looks like the best price, but I don't want to short change myself if I will have problems in the future.
Thanks very much in advance for any feedback.
Ross
Currently I am running the stock rocker arms, Patriot Gold Double Springs (good to .650 lift I believe), stock LS1 heads, and a TSP 231/237 .596/.591. Rev limiter is set to 7000 and I am shifting at 6800rpm N/A and 6600rpm on the Nitrous. The motor will pull hard all the way to 7000rpm.
The valvetrain has been obviously noisey since the cam install, but I have noticed lately a clicking/ticking sound that has been gradually getting louder over time. Sound seems to be isolated just under the valve cover over the #6 cylinder. My only conclusion is one of the rocker arms has some slop in it causing the sound. (I used the 5/8 rubber hose method. Stick one end to your ear and the other end on the block/valve cover/water to isolate the sound.)
The motor is not down on power. Has been consistantly running in the 94-95mph range N/A and 102-103 range on nitrous. I have heard the fulcrum on the stock rockers will loosen over time and eventually start puking needle bearings. We haven't found any needle bearings in the oil pan, but I believe its only a matter of time.
I've read a few times that some of the heavier aftermarket rocker arms can cause valve float and I don't understand if it is in fact because the rocker arms are too heavy or if it is improper valve spring choice.
What rocker arms have yielded the best results for most of you? Are adjustable rocker arm neccessary? Are people still having problems with the Yella Terra or Harland Sharp? Harland Sharp looks like the best price, but I don't want to short change myself if I will have problems in the future.
Thanks very much in advance for any feedback.
Ross
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1ST Ihope those mph werent in the 1320, theyre low #s. 2nd Ive read that the stock rockers are fine and even the bigger dogs still run them. Harland shrps ive heard a couple of problems with the neddle bearings coming apart,, but dont have factual data to back it up maybe someone out there had experince w/them. I ve read that the after markets weight does have something to do with valve float. Anyways I personaly plan on keeping the stock ones or replace them with the stockers. hope this helps!
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Originally Posted by NO5.0
1ST Ihope those mph werent in the 1320, theyre low #s. 2nd Ive read that the stock rockers are fine and even the bigger dogs still run them. Harland shrps ive heard a couple of problems with the neddle bearings coming apart,, but dont have factual data to back it up maybe someone out there had experince w/them. I ve read that the after markets weight does have something to do with valve float. Anyways I personaly plan on keeping the stock ones or replace them with the stockers. hope this helps!
I've also seen that Harland upgrades the stock rockers, does anyone have any feedback on those?
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1/8 MILE COOL! if youre getting noise from the one side it is definitly worth the while of taking the valve covering off to have alook see. sounds like one of the nuts backed off on the rocker?
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I'm still running my stock rocker arms. If you are hearing noise that may sound like rocker arms, check it out. Don't guess at it. As for the Harland upgrades, I have a set in the basement. They didn't fit worth a **** on my 98 heads. I have heard both good and bad. Some have had floating problems with them. Your call guy.
David
David
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Originally Posted by NO5.0
1/8 MILE COOL! if youre getting noise from the one side it is definitly worth the while of taking the valve covering off to have alook see. sounds like one of the nuts backed off on the rocker?
i have had to replace 2 rocker arms in a year side of the fulcrum broke completely out and yes it will get alot louder once it breaks
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Thanks everyone for the responses. I will deffinately pull both valve covers and take a look at all the rockers and pushrods.
How much do stock rockers usually cost, and where would be the best place to buy them? Can you buy them single or do you have to get a whole set?
I wasn't too crazy about spending the money on the coil relocation kit, but now it looks like its going to pay off.
How much do stock rockers usually cost, and where would be the best place to buy them? Can you buy them single or do you have to get a whole set?
I wasn't too crazy about spending the money on the coil relocation kit, but now it looks like its going to pay off.
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Originally Posted by Cal
Before you buy any rockers, get the valve cover off. You might find that the rockers are fine, and what you actually have is a bad lifter or bent push rod.
I've heard good things about the Jessel rocker arms, but damn they are expensive. You could buy a set of heads for the price of the adjustables.
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For the best VALUE in aftermarket LSx rockers I got the Harlan Sharps. Everybody wants $650+. The Harlans were only $330 + shipping. They're a tad heavier than stock at the nose, but a good spring will take care of that. It's not like I'm spinning past 6500. Just a suggestion.
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Originally Posted by bad2000ss
Thanks everyone for the responses. I will deffinately pull both valve covers and take a look at all the rockers and pushrods.
How much do stock rockers usually cost, and where would be the best place to buy them? Can you buy them single or do you have to get a whole set?
I wasn't too crazy about spending the money on the coil relocation kit, but now it looks like its going to pay off.
How much do stock rockers usually cost, and where would be the best place to buy them? Can you buy them single or do you have to get a whole set?
I wasn't too crazy about spending the money on the coil relocation kit, but now it looks like its going to pay off.
stock rocker arm gm dealer $28 a piece u can buy them seperatly
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Originally Posted by Hotrod God
I noticed no one mentioned COMP's roller rockers. Aren't they any good? I have a set I was getting ready to blot on. 1.75:1 ratio.
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Pulled both covers and all the rockers looked ok. One of the rockers over the #6 cylinder was a bit loose. The bolt was only finger tight. Pulled the pushrod out and it was strait. Cranked it down just a bit and the sound went away.
I'm glad it turned out to be something small. I think I will eventually go with a set of the Jessels when I can afford them.
I'm glad it turned out to be something small. I think I will eventually go with a set of the Jessels when I can afford them.